[vapman]

Hey buddy @Tus-Chan,
 
Kudos to the Schitt employee for doing things his way - I hate when manafacturers use stupidly low impedances too, and you @Tus-Chan for bringing the information to our attention here, but I think you'll find a lot of serious bassheads in this thread actually are interested in peak power, and make use of it quite frequently to bring out the strongest possible bass response. Just like driving large subwoofers, more power helps. That is also why a lot of thread regulars here also have an EQ that greatly boosts the bass and greatly reduces the frequency range above 150-200hz~ by as much as -10 or -15dB. The purpose of intentionally turning down the rest of the frequency range so far to allow you to turn up the volume knob higher but not get to ear deafening levels, is very intentional for this reason.
 
Also, I am very sure the Schitt employee is not a basshead who follows these practices. For people who don't EQ, or EQ minimally, which is the majority of Head-Fi, i'm sure you'd find none of them use anywhere close to peak power ever, and as such a RMS rating makes more sense for the majority of listeners. However, I am sure you will find that historically this thread has focused more on peak power. Some guys here even run their basshead rigs off of stereo speaker taps to put a real 4W+ signal to their headphones.
 
The suggestion to check out an amp with a higher peak rating and make more use of that power by further boosting the sub frequencies was merely a suggestion to help you have more fun with your JVC's! If you are enjoying it as it, please continue to enjoy it!
 
Cheers man

 

 

[Fearless1]

Hey buddy @Tus-Chan
,

Kudos to the Schitt employee for doing things his way - I hate when manafacturers use stupidly low impedances too, and you @Tus-Chan
for bringing the information to our attention here, but I think you'll find a lot of serious bassheads in this thread actually are interested in peak power, and make use of it quite frequently to bring out the strongest possible bass response. Just like driving large subwoofers, more power helps. That is also why a lot of thread regulars here also have an EQ that greatly boosts the bass and greatly reduces the frequency range above 150-200hz~ by as much as -10 or -15dB. The purpose of intentionally turning down the rest of the frequency range so far to allow you to turn up the volume knob higher but not get to ear deafening levels, is very intentional for this reason.

Also, I am very sure the Schitt employee is not a basshead who follows these practices. For people who don't EQ, or EQ minimally, which is the majority of Head-Fi, i'm sure you'd find none of them use anywhere close to peak power ever, and as such a RMS rating makes more sense for the majority of listeners. However, I am sure you will find that historically this thread has focused more on peak power. Some guys here even run their basshead rigs off of stereo speaker taps to put a real 4W+ signal to their headphones.

The suggestion to check out an amp with a higher peak rating and make more use of that power by further boosting the sub frequencies was merely a suggestion to help you have more fun with your JVC's! If you are enjoying it as it, please continue to enjoy it!

Cheers man  

I take it you were never into car audio?

RMS is what your concern should be when looking at an amps power rating, any amp that uses it's peak power as a benchmark is typically junk. Peak power ratings tell you the maximum wattage the amp can deliver in short bursts, RMS power rating refers to the continuous power produced, that is the true measure of an amplifier.

 

[vapman]

I take it you were never into car audio?

RMS is what your concern should be when looking at an amps power rating, any amp that uses it's peak power as a benchmark is typically junk. Peak power ratings tell you the maximum wattage the amp can deliver in short bursts, RMS power rating refers to the continuous power produced, that is the true measure of an amplifier.

Personally, I would argue car audio is a very different world. You're talking about thousands of watts @ 12v controlling certainly more than two speakers. Here we are dealing with a couple of watts maximum going into a set of headphones. I wouldn't use any of my favorite headphone amps in a home stereo let alone a car stereo, I don't use car audio gear on my headphones...

 

[Fearless1]

I used the car audio analogy as an example to demonstrate what peak vs. RMS actually means. Those terms apply to amplification in general.....specs of an amplifier are measured in the same way regardless of the power, input voltage, application and etc.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power

 

[Strauss95]

Okay fellow bassheads, I've got a problem I could use your help with. My problem is the lack of a proper EQ on my Samsung Galaxy S7, which is what I use to listen to spotify premium on the go. The S2K's sound substantially worse without proper EQ, so they struggle to get the bass pounding even with my S7 stacked with my E12 amp.
 
It appears the cheapest option would be to root my device, so I could run viper4android, but I'm not very good with that type of stuff. Honestly it looks like a very scary task, where I could end up with a bricked phone if I screwed up.
 
I've looked at possibly getting a Dragonfly Black DAC to pair with the E12, which if worked would help all around with the sound. On my desktop I use an original Dragonfly, which helps a lot with both sound quality and bass. But the original version doesn't work well with mobile devices.
 
Another option is to get a dedicated DAP that is android based, which could run spotify. I'd assume most of those would have decent EQ options built into them, the trouble with them is their price. Looks like the Cayin i5 is the cheapest option at $500. 
 
Lastly, I could pick up a cheaper DAP that isn't android based but has a good EQ, and start buying my music instead of using my spotify premium account. But I think that would cost more money in the long run, since I would need to buy lots of music starting from scratch.
 
What do you guys think?

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

I used the car audio analogy as an example to demonstrate what peak vs. RMS actually means. Those terms apply to amplification in general.....specs of an amplifier are measured in the same way regardless of the power, input voltage, application and etc.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power

 Some of the big audio amps for cars in the old days like pyle and Orion and others used to use peak + some more and slap that # on the amp

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

  Okay fellow bassheads, I've got a problem I could use your help with. My problem is the lack of a proper EQ on my Samsung Galaxy S7, which is what I use to listen to spotify premium on the go. The S2K's sound substantially worse without proper EQ, so they struggle to get the bass pounding even with my S7 stacked with my E12 amp.
 
It appears the cheapest option would be to root my device, so I could run viper4android, but I'm not very good with that type of stuff. Honestly it looks like a very scary task, where I could end up with a bricked phone if I screwed up.
 
I've looked at possibly getting a Dragonfly Black DAC to pair with the E12, which if worked would help all around with the sound. On my desktop I use an original Dragonfly, which helps a lot with both sound quality and bass. But the original version doesn't work well with mobile devices.
 
Another option is to get a dedicated DAP that is android based, which could run spotify. I'd assume most of those would have decent EQ options built into them, the trouble with them is their price. Looks like the Cayin i5 is the cheapest option at $500. 
 
Lastly, I could pick up a cheaper DAP that isn't android based but has a good EQ, and start buying my music instead of using my spotify premium account. But I think that would cost more money in the long run, since I would need to buy lots of music starting from scratch.
 
What do you guys think?

 How about trying neutron app.
Running out the headphone out from a phone is not a great quality signal so amping that is not gonna sound very good. You already stack so going OTG and using an e18 would be just enough to slam and then maybe go for more power/DAC later.
I will have the i5 for a review so I can tell you how that device is soon

 

[snellemin]

 
Personally, I would argue car audio is a very different world. You're talking about thousands of watts @ 12v controlling certainly more than two speakers. Here we are dealing with a couple of watts maximum going into a set of headphones. I wouldn't use any of my favorite headphone amps in a home stereo let alone a car stereo, I don't use car audio gear on my headphones...

 
 
Car audio with headphones works nicely.

 

[vapman]

   
 
Car audio with headphones works nicely.
 

Check out what I just got home with. I don't know if i've ever heard this much bass from the SZ2000 short of some vintage stereo headphone outs? I LOVE IT! Nothing short of amazing.
 

 
 
The mixer is a cheapo but sounds fine & is going to get some upgrades soon totally undeserving of a mixer in its price range. About to make some more room on my work desk for my old Alesis Monitor Ones...
 

 
Can't thank you enough for the rec. After many many long months my Technics and bMac finally get a rest and the little Gemini has a use again.

 

[chillaxing]

  Okay fellow bassheads, I've got a problem I could use your help with. My problem is the lack of a proper EQ on my Samsung Galaxy S7, which is what I use to listen to spotify premium on the go. The S2K's sound substantially worse without proper EQ, so they struggle to get the bass pounding even with my S7 stacked with my E12 amp.
 
It appears the cheapest option would be to root my device, so I could run viper4android, but I'm not very good with that type of stuff. Honestly it looks like a very scary task, where I could end up with a bricked phone if I screwed up.
 
I've looked at possibly getting a Dragonfly Black DAC to pair with the E12, which if worked would help all around with the sound. On my desktop I use an original Dragonfly, which helps a lot with both sound quality and bass. But the original version doesn't work well with mobile devices.
 
Another option is to get a dedicated DAP that is android based, which could run spotify. I'd assume most of those would have decent EQ options built into them, the trouble with them is their price. Looks like the Cayin i5 is the cheapest option at $500. 
 
Lastly, I could pick up a cheaper DAP that isn't android based but has a good EQ, and start buying my music instead of using my spotify premium account. But I think that would cost more money in the long run, since I would need to buy lots of music starting from scratch.
 
What do you guys think?

 
 
No eq app for Spotify with android.  only way to eq that app on android is through v4a.
 
or you can get mp3 or flac and play it through Neutron.
 
 
A DAP running android is a good option only if that DAP has a powerful amp.

 

[chillaxing]

 
 Some of the big audio amps for cars in the old days like pyle and Orion and others used to use peak + some more and slap that # on the amp

 
 
Thats why pyle and orion are bottom feeders now 

 

[snellemin]

  Check out what I just got home with. I don't know if i've ever heard this much bass from the SZ2000 short of some vintage stereo headphone outs? I LOVE IT! Nothing short of amazing.
 

 
 
The mixer is a cheapo but sounds fine & is going to get some upgrades soon totally undeserving of a mixer in its price range. About to make some more room on my work desk for my old Alesis Monitor Ones...
 

 
Can't thank you enough for the rec. After many many long months my Technics and bMac finally get a rest and the little Gemini has a use again.

Wait till you run the JVC's straight from the amplifier output.  Lower the gain on the rear and have at it.  

 

[vapman]

  Wait till you run the JVC's straight from the amplifier output.  Lower the gain on the rear and have at it.  

How are you hooking it up? I am feeling lazy to make a speaker wire to 3.5mm adapter but i could do it if that's how you're doing it too.

 

[snellemin]

 
How are you hooking it up? I am feeling lazy to make a speaker wire to 3.5mm adapter but i could do it if that's how you're doing it too.

There are two ways that I do it.  One amp, I bypass the "drop down" resistors inside the amp that goes the headphone output.  The other amp I have a variable resistor box that I hook up to the amp speaker output.

 

[Vonsid]

Hi guys, i have a technical question about bass and i thought that might be a good place to ask it
 
For my next purchase i purposely chose to pick and compare two totally different pair of headphones. I never owned a "bassy" type of headphones and always wanted to try one so i chose The V-Moda Crossfade Wireless. For the other pair i chose the Beyerdynamic DT 990 600 ohm edition, that is not considered a bassy headphone, but it's said to be one of the open-back headphones that have the more bass.
 
The biggest difference that i notice about the sound, excepted for the obvious more bass on the V-Moda, is that the sound from the V-Moda sounds way less clear. I'm not sure how to properly explain it but it sounds kinda like i'm in an echo chamber or a cavern when i use it. So my question was : Does more bass in headphones necessarily mean a more "cavernous" sound ? Is it a property of the bass to sound like that ? It's very pleasant for some styles of music, but for watching movies for example, it tends to eat the vocals and dialogs a little bit.
 
Should i forget all over the bassy headphones to watch movies ? They still seems to me to be the only ones that can deliver this kind of punchy feeling on some scenes, specially the action ones, but it apparently comes at the cost of some audio quality, or at least it modifies the sound for a good deal.
 
Thanks.