Aug 14, 2023 at 6:15 AM Post #71,146 of 80,117
since mostly every headphone i ever owned was single ended, i would call me a single ended guy, that dont cares for balanced at all. i did some recablings to balanced but never felt worth it afterwards. But since listening almost exclusively to earbuds, i wonder if i could use an aftermarket balaced cable at least on my detachable buds. Sorry, but i dont know anything about physics, could this work or would i roun the buds, using a balaced cable and amp?
No, it will not ruin your earbuds.

Re-cabling a fixed cable or replacing a mmcx/2-pin earphone cable to balanced will open a "power" doorway found on many of today's available audio source devices. The additional power offered by balanced earphone outputs (e.g. 4.4TRRRS, 2.5TRRS, 3.5TRRS) can give you better low-end performance, as well as improve dynamics with certain drivers especially if they are of higher impedance and/or of lower sensitivity.

Additionally, using a difficult to drive pair of earphones with a balanced, instead of the single-ended, output connection will in many cases reduce the volume and in-turn may lower the demand on the amplification circuit/section of your device. E.g. a close to max volume setting using single-ended output may be pushing your device too hard to 90% plus efficiency-capability demand levels... using the balanced output instead will lower the required volume and may significantly reduce the demand on the amplification circuit/section and in-turn increase the life-span of the said device.
Let us not forget the potential of crosstalk which (in this case) is defined as:

A possible negative side effect of an unbalanced connection (line level or headphone) is the potential for unwanted noise, interference or hum to be introduced to the signal. Because the ground is linked, wayward currents from power supply transformer leakages or stray capacitance can become part of the audio signal.

This isn't nearly as relevant as it used to be because most manufacturers implement this in a much better way (from the amplifier) than they used to. Having said that, here is a pretty good article that might help with explaining balanced vs. unbalanced or single ended, and relevant information that relates to this.

Edit: As for your connections, interconnects, amplifier output, and driver wiring there is a good rule of thumb to think of here to keep your equipment safe from harm. If your head gear is wired in a balanced way (read separate grounds for each driver), then you can use either a balanced or single ended interconnect. So if you are looking at the cable connection (where it connects to your source), you can use either 3.5mm SE or 2.5mm balanced or 4.4mm balanced. But.... if your drivers are not wired this way, or your cable only uses 3 wires (L R G) then you cannot use those balanced connectors from your source because you will short out the grounds. This could burn up your amplifier, transducers, or both. Anything having a wire coming into each driver is generally wired as a balanced connection, whereas anything with just one wire coming into one side could be SE or balanced. It is up to you to know which it is, so that you can decide whether to use a balanced wire interconnect or not.

So:
  • 3.5mm SE - 3.5mm SE or 4.4mm balanced or 2.5mm balanced = OK
  • 2.5mm balanced or 4.4mm balanced - 3.5mm SE = BAD
Having said all of that, there does exist on the market (or you can make your own) interconnects that can go from balanced out of your source to single ended in (on head gear or other equipment) safely, as long as the grounds are not tied together. The problem with buying such interconnects (especially from China) is that while they may be advertised as such, some testing has shown some of them to not be wired correctly and is just a standard SE cable (I can't cite sources right now, as I didn't bookmark them when I read about this). Moral of the story is just to be aware of what you are paying for. :)
 
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Aug 14, 2023 at 6:54 AM Post #71,147 of 80,117
So:
  • 3.5mm SE - 3.5mm SE or 4.4mm balanced or 2.5mm balanced = OK
  • 2.5mm balanced or 4.4mm balanced - 3.5mm SE = BAD
You left this in a very confusing manner. You should add < or > to show which direction is which in the chain for "ok" and "bad"
 
Aug 14, 2023 at 7:10 AM Post #71,148 of 80,117
You left this in a very confusing manner. You should add < or > to show which direction is which in the chain for "ok" and "bad"
You are right. Apologies for that.

  • 3.5mm SE (source) going to 3.5mm SE or 4.4mm balanced or 2.5mm balanced = OK
  • 2.5mm balanced or 4.4mm balanced (source) going to 3.5mm SE = BAD
The point is just remember that if you have a balanced cable, you can use any connection from your source. If you have a SE cable, you are stuck with ONLY a SE connection from your source (unless you get a specialty adapter that removes ground as being common). :)
 
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Aug 14, 2023 at 8:10 PM Post #71,149 of 80,117
I was going to suggest the RW3000 but as you said they can be a bit shouty with volume on some stuff. I also couldn't recommend the Yimans for that. The Amp 14 card doesn't make enough power. Have you tried the stock amp card or maybe even Amp12 with the FF5? The stock card is known to add some space, but is also less warm.

Or you could try the FF3 on an SS amp. If you used them on the Amp13, or 14 they might be a bit too warm.

Otherwise you may need to go DIY. I don't think there are too many out there with the tone/tuning of the FF5 but also with the technicalities of something like the Yinman or even more so the Moondrop Chaconne.

Have you tried the RW2000? They are a bit warmer, but also not as shouty as the RW3000 can be at volume. If you are sensitive to this area, there aren't a crap ton of recommendations (from me), because most sets are actually more shouty by a fair amount (IMHO).


Edit: It might be best to wait for the new lineup of Yinmans coming out fairly soon. A couple of those will be easily driven by your amp card.
I do have (and really like) the RW2000. In fact, it's been my go-to with the DX320 recently. I also really enjoy the FF3 with the Amp14 for that occasional warm blanket feeling, but I end up going back to the FF5 because it's a little more resolving and balanced with that card.

I've occasionally tried the Yinmans, but you can tell the Amp 14 card doesn't have nearly enough power to do them justice, so they live in my desktop setup.

I'm going to be auditioning Desolation Sound and I'm also curious about the Simphonio Dragon 3+, but I'm reluctant to spend that much on a bud I've never heard...

@mt877 I appreciate the BK recommendation, which is a bud I've owned and really enjoyed. I agree that it's technically superior to the FF3, but for some reason, the FF5 sounds a little more open and airy to me, which is part of what I'm looking for.
 
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Aug 14, 2023 at 8:14 PM Post #71,150 of 80,117
I do have (and really like) the RW2000. In fact, it's been my go-to with the DX320 recently. I also really enjoy the FF3 with the Amp14 for that occasional warm blanket feeling, but I end up going back to the FF5 because it's a little more resolving and balanced with that card.

I've occasionally tried the Yinmans, but you can tell the Amp 14 card doesn't have nearly enough power to do them justice, so they live in my desktop setup.

I'm going to be auditioning Desolation Sound and I'm also curious about the Simphonio Dragon 3+, but I'm reluctant to spend that much on a bud I've never heard...

@mt877 I appreciate the BK recommendation, which is a bud I've owned and really enjoyed. I agree that it's technically superior to the FF3, but for some reason, the FF5 sounds a little more open and airy to me, which is part of what I'm looking for.
If you can live with the quantity of bass being less, the Chaconne have a sound that is to die for (IMHO), and it sounds like you have a lot of the bigger named TOTL store bought buds.
 
Aug 14, 2023 at 8:31 PM Post #71,151 of 80,117
Smabat is releasing another new earbud.

Product page: https://www.smabat.com/smabat2/products/54130273.html

LunSon YE-02
Driver: 15.4mm 50Ω

These earbuds are Smabat product, but being released with the name LunSon. There have been another earbud released with Lun Sheng branding, the YE-01.
I guess it's no coincidence that the buds are named YE-01 and the latest release is YE-02. So now it's very clear that Smabat is producing earbuds under the LunSon and Lun Sheng brand names.

The product logo is exactly the same for both brands:
LunSon_LunSheng.jpg



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Aug 14, 2023 at 11:36 PM Post #71,152 of 80,117
Fiio FF3 sounding 🔥 off Mass Kobo 475 and Hiby R6P2. I can't believe this is coming from $100 earbuds. This earbud in particular seems to like more power.

received_829251035183568.jpeg


It's cleaner now with excellent dynamics. Bass punch is tighter more condensed. The treble (which I found to be shy) is now at satisfying levels (Near Sunniva).

I fully understand prioritizing transducers over sources. For me personally, I would listen to this amped over most TOTL earbuds unamped. For those of you who are looking to "upgrade", I would recommend adding an external amp first (before dacs).
 
Aug 15, 2023 at 2:32 AM Post #71,153 of 80,117
Hi,

I'm newbie with flat-head form-factor, so your advice would be appreciated. I used IEMs during last years (but now my ears are against them), so I'll describe preferences in that terms:
- I don't like classical Harman hill, that is 10-12 db rise of 2-6 KHz (about 5 db is sufficient for me). In other words, I'm not fun of details - overall tonal signature is more important
- I don't need boom around 100 Hz, but am very interested in sub-bass presence being not masked by (mid-)bass
- detachable cable is obligatory

Have you models for me (say, up to $250)?
 
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Aug 15, 2023 at 4:29 AM Post #71,154 of 80,117
Hi,

I'm newbie with flat-head form-factor, so your advice would be appreciated. I used IEMs during last years (but now my ears are against them), so I'll describe preferences in that terms:
- I don't like classical Harman hill, that is 10-12 db rise of 2-6 KHz (about 5 db is sufficient for me). In other words, I'm not fun of details - overall tonal signature is more important
- I don't need boom around 100 Hz, but am very interested in sub-bass presence being not masked by mid-bass
- detachable cable is obligatory

Have you models for me (say, up to $250)?

Honestly it is not easy to find a earbud with more sub-bass than mid-bass as per your criteria, as most buds are weak in sub-bass.

Off the top of my head, the smabat type earbuds are one of the exceptions in having huge sub-bass due to a labyrinth acoustic tube, but most smabats have massive spikes at the 3 kHz region, which disqualifies your 2nd criteria.
 
Aug 15, 2023 at 4:48 AM Post #71,155 of 80,117
Honestly it is not easy to find a earbud with more sub-bass than mid-bass as per your criteria, as most buds are weak in sub-bass.

Off the top of my head, the smabat type earbuds are one of the exceptions in having huge sub-bass due to a labyrinth acoustic tube, but most smabats have massive spikes at the 3 kHz region, which disqualifies your 2nd criteria.

Probably I wasn't clear enough. I don't mean "more". I mean just sub isn't masked by (mid)bass. Say, to estimate, -4-6db at 40 Hz where 0db is at 100Hz.
What Smabat model are you saying about?
 
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Aug 15, 2023 at 4:48 AM Post #71,156 of 80,117
Hi,

I'm newbie with flat-head form-factor, so your advice would be appreciated. I used IEMs during last years (but now my ears are against them), so I'll describe preferences in that terms:
- I don't like classical Harman hill, that is 10-12 db rise of 2-6 KHz (about 5 db is sufficient for me). In other words, I'm not fun of details - overall tonal signature is more important
- I don't need boom around 100 Hz, but am very interested in sub-bass presence being not masked by mid-bass
- detachable cable is obligatory

Have you models for me (say, up to $250)?
Hi there, and welcome!

Before you dive in with that budget (which, btw, is a healthy budget in the world of earbuds), have you checked which shell types fit you? There a handful of shapes out there, ranging from bob-standard MX500 to PK to custom designed and 3D printed shells. If you tolerate MX500, I think that's a very good place to begin
 
Aug 15, 2023 at 5:00 AM Post #71,157 of 80,117
Hi there, and welcome!

Before you dive in with that budget (which, btw, is a healthy budget in the world of earbuds), have you checked which shell types fit you? There a handful of shapes out there, ranging from bob-standard MX500 to PK to custom designed and 3D printed shells. If you tolerate MX500, I think that's a very good place to begin
I guess MX500 hasn't got detachable cable. I'd want to try earbuds with UTWS5 also - as one of the possible use cases.
 
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Aug 15, 2023 at 5:49 AM Post #71,158 of 80,117
Hi,

I'm newbie with flat-head form-factor, so your advice would be appreciated. I used IEMs during last years (but now my ears are against them), so I'll describe preferences in that terms:
- I don't like classical Harman hill, that is 10-12 db rise of 2-6 KHz (about 5 db is sufficient for me). In other words, I'm not fun of details - overall tonal signature is more important
- I don't need boom around 100 Hz, but am very interested in sub-bass presence being not masked by mid-bass
- detachable cable is obligatory

Have you models for me (say, up to $250)?
Hi,

The most impressive sub-bass of the mmcx-compatible earbuds I have heard is the smabat st-10s Black/Gold.
https://penonaudio.com/smabat-st-10s.html

However, there is a strong peak at 20kHz and you may want to weaken that peak with an OCC cable.(I have done so.)
Smabat ST-10S_Gold_vs_Smabat ST-10_Green.png
 
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Aug 15, 2023 at 6:35 AM Post #71,159 of 80,117
Probably I wasn't clear enough. I don't mean "more". I mean just sub isn't masked by mid. Say, to estimate, -4-6db at 40 Hz where 0db is at 100Hz.
What Smabat model are you saying about?

The two smabats with the largest sub bass I tried are the ST10 and ST10 black gold. Both are detachable MMCX but have an upper mids spike as per their house signature.
 
Aug 15, 2023 at 7:11 AM Post #71,160 of 80,117
Hi,

The most impressive sub-bass of the mmcx-compatible earbuds I have heard is the smabat st-10s Black/Gold.
https://penonaudio.com/smabat-st-10s.html

However, there is a strong peak at 20kHz and you may want to weaken that peak with an OCC cable.(I have done so.)
Smabat ST-10S_Gold_vs_Smabat ST-10_Green.png
Thanks for FR plot. In fact ST10 (red) looks more interesting to me as far as it is much more neutral and difference between 40Hz and 100Hz is about zero.

Again: I don't need exaggerated sub-bass. I'd want sub-bass to be not too lower than bass and mid-bass.
 

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