Earbuds Round-Up
Nov 20, 2020 at 12:10 PM Post #50,521 of 75,319
I prepare to upgrade earbuds on Black Friday. I currently have an Ry4S with a silver cable (fixed) which play well with the FiiO BTR3. Their sound signature suits me in general, maybe they could be a bit more weighted. Of the other earbuds I've had, I liked the sound of the Vido MX500 and the VE Monk Candy.

The new earbuds will play with Shanling UP4 or FiiO BTR5.

Budget: 30-40 $ max.

I was thinking of buying RY4S mmcx + 2.5mm cable, QianYun Qian69, Yinyooo BK2 or increasing the budget and buying the Smabat M2 Pro.

I reject the Senfers PT25 because I had PT15 and their sound did not suit me.

What can you recommend? Thank you in advance for your help! :)

I have the RY4S mmcx and don’t really find balanced to be a big benefit for that set. Go for the M2pro(with just the knowledge of what the M1 and St10 sound like) or the yin crow x6 as suggested above.
 
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Nov 20, 2020 at 12:14 PM Post #50,522 of 75,319
Nov 20, 2020 at 12:16 PM Post #50,523 of 75,319
Nov 20, 2020 at 1:00 PM Post #50,525 of 75,319
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Nov 20, 2020 at 1:09 PM Post #50,526 of 75,319
Nov 20, 2020 at 5:18 PM Post #50,528 of 75,319
I don't have much earbud experience but these are my favorites so far. Even more than shozy bk but I had those a while ago. Nicely v shaped but also balanced and not sibilant at all to my ears. Really good for lower volume listening.
When we compare models such as RW-1000, BGVP DX6, ISN RAMBO II, we notice that each of these lacks in the low-end especially sub-bass.
Build, cable, diver specs on these models are good. But why we have a problem with bass? There are several reasons for this, and I will not talk about the MX500 and PK style of the shell but the different designs of shells used in these models
1. Open design at the front cover (Rambo II, Ourart ACG), like an rim of the wheel. 95% aerodynamics and 5% bass :wink:
2. Vents on the front side of the shell, just behind the driver are for tuning the mids. If they are not covered with tuning foam then the sound is hollow, and with foam, we can easily control the middle tones and even the bass (to a lesser extent). Most likely this simple method was used for tuning the bass on RW-1000 but this is not the right way.
3. Now let's look at models that have fair sub-bass quantity vs quality ratio. The first model is, of course, Smabat ST10. It has the same "front" vents for mids but there is also a "rear" vent for the bass. The transmission Line (TS) design here probably doesn't have much significance because we know that the length of this "LINE" should certainly be more than twice as long in this case. But what is significant here is that with the existence of a "rear" vent there is no build-up of pressure behind the diver, in other words, the goal is to equalize the pressure on both sides of the driver to create ideal conditions for sound reproduction.
Another model Is HE150Pro which has a more simplistic design, without any "front" vents, just one "rear" vent.
From this, we can only conclude that it is not necessary to invest in some complicated design when simple solutions can give the same or better result.
That is why the correct layout and position of the vents are of great importance, and not only for bass but for SQ in general
 
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Nov 20, 2020 at 6:33 PM Post #50,529 of 75,319
When we compare models such as RW-1000, BGVP DX6, ISN RAMBO II, we notice that each of these lacks in the low end especially sub-bass.
Build, cable, diver specs on these models are good. But why we have a problem with bass? There are several reasons for this, and I will not talk about the MX500 and PK style of the shell but the different designs of shells used in these models
1. Open design at the front cover (Rambo II, Ourart ACG), like an rim of the wheel. 95% aerodynamics and 5% bass :wink:
2. Vents on the front side of the shell, just behind the driver are for tuning the mids. If they are not covered with tuning foam then the sound is hollow, and with foam, we can easily control the middle tones and even the bass (to a lesser extent). Most likely this simple method was used for tuning the bass on RW-1000 but this is not the right way.
3. Now let's look at models that have fair sub-bass quantity vs quality ratio. The first model is, of course, Smabat ST10. It has the same "front" vents for mids but there is also a "rear" vent for the bass. The transmission Line (TS) design here probably doesn't have much significance because we know that the length of this "LINE" should certainly be more than twice as long in this case. But what is significant here is that with the existence of a "rear" vent there is no build-up of pressure behind the diver, in other words, the goal is to equalize the pressure on both sides of the driver to create ideal conditions for sound reproduction.
Another model Is HE150Pro which has a more simplistic design, without any "front" vents, just one "rear" vent.
From this, we can only conclude that it is not necessary to invest in some complicated design when simple solutions can give the same or better result.
That is why the correct layout and position of the vents are of great importance, and not only for bass but for SQ in general

Have to jump over the the diy thread to scan it, but have you done any vent experiments on your 400ohm and 600ohm drivers? Just had an itch to experiment some more, test out some new flavors. If the DIY version of the M2Pro goes on sale I think it would be interesting to do some driver swaps in that shell. Take some measurements of the original driver in a standard MX500 shell then compare.
I am finding I use my 600ohm Beryllium and M1Pro more than anything.
 
Nov 20, 2020 at 8:30 PM Post #50,530 of 75,319
Have to jump over the the diy thread to scan it, but have you done any vent experiments on your 400ohm and 600ohm drivers? Just had an itch to experiment some more, test out some new flavors. If the DIY version of the M2Pro goes on sale I think it would be interesting to do some driver swaps in that shell. Take some measurements of the original driver in a standard MX500 shell then compare.
I am finding I use my 600ohm Beryllium and M1Pro more than anything.
I tortured both drivers (400&600ohm) a lot by "walking" them from one shell to another. I posted only my final build. For now, I'm happy with these shells, so I don't believe I'm going to change anything. Only if some new shells come out :fingers_crossed:
 
Nov 20, 2020 at 8:57 PM Post #50,531 of 75,319
Speaking of shells and vents, if you ever have your hands on Airpods. Cover the rear vent. It’s an experience
 

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Nov 20, 2020 at 9:10 PM Post #50,532 of 75,319
Speaking of shells and vents, if you ever have your hands on Airpods. Cover the rear vent. It’s an experience

I’m not a fan of those shells at all. But you can see for yourself how they solved vents behind. Sony, Philips, and many brands use a similar concept.
But they kill the sound with the front cover
Anyway ... with this one I don't need to cover anything :wink:
 
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Nov 20, 2020 at 9:19 PM Post #50,533 of 75,319
I’m not a fan of those shells at all. But you can see for yourself how they solved vents behind. Sony, Philips, and many brands use a similar concept.
But they kill the sound with the front cover
With the left ear. Sometimes I forget I have it in, I’ll look for it only to realize it was in my ear. The right though becomes noticeable after awhile.
 
Nov 20, 2020 at 9:36 PM Post #50,534 of 75,319
Quick Mea Culpa: DIY MX500 are great buds. Just needed very very porous foam. Earbud's heavy seal-dependency can be so misleading at times, even when aware of it...
That said I recieved a variety of foams from Ali and It really is a game changer as I can have a decent control over the seal now (and so the elevation below 2K). I was expecting a lot and I'm not disapointed.

Edit: Just came across this very informative post from Oratory which highlights brillantly how critical foams and positiong are when it comes to buds. It also probably shows the most reliable measurments ever made for a bud x) Can be a good point of reference.
 
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Nov 21, 2020 at 6:10 AM Post #50,535 of 75,319
I have the RY4S mmcx and don’t really find balanced to be a big benefit for that set. Go for the M2pro(with just the knowledge of what the M1 and St10 sound like) or the yin crow x6 as suggested above.


I will choose the Smabat M2 Pro :)

Does anyone know where to buy these earbuds with additional drivers at the best price during Black Friday?

The second thing - is it possible to buy a mmcx cable with a 2.5 mm plug to connect them to the balanced output?
 

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