The Stax thread (New)
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Jul 15, 2012 at 5:06 AM Post #18,886 of 24,807
There you go! Seems like you're enjoying your time back home (mini-meet and all) !
 
 

 
Good luck with the pelican case!

Brilliant mate! Thx so much, Arnaud!

It's actually for my broken TH900s but since I'm getting a case for that I may as well get one big enough for the SR-009s.
 
Jul 15, 2012 at 7:38 AM Post #18,887 of 24,807
Quote:
I glued that right driver back together carefully. So far, it's holding together, but there's still a channel imbalance even though I made sure there are no visible gaps in the driver assembly. At first, I thought the right driver had a veil to the sound, but a bit of fiddling with balance controls revealed that it's just running much quieter.
 
Is there still any hope for that driver? I saw no obvious damage to either of the stators or the diaphragm, but electrostatic drivers are precision instruments, after all.
 
On another note, these SR-303 pads are much softer than what I'm used to, coming from the SR-202 and a 30-year-old SR-Lambda. I can't believe it's pleather! Really helps with comfort even with the slightly higher clamping force of the Nova/numerical-style headband/arc.

 
It's crucial to remove all the old glue before you reassemble the driver and to put them under a great deal of pressure to make sure the glue is as thin as possible. 
 
Jul 15, 2012 at 4:17 PM Post #18,889 of 24,807
Quote:
It's crucial to remove all the old glue before you reassemble the driver and to put them under a great deal of pressure to make sure the glue is as thin as possible. 

 
May I ask what you use to remove the old glue without any potential damage to the driver components? That'll be crucial for me to pull this off properly.
 
I also know you use polyurethane glue, but I don't know exactly what brand or anything you use. Maybe it doesn't really matter as long as it's some variety of polyurethane, but there are multiple varieties of polyurethane glue floating around out there which may not all be suitable for the purposes of electrostatic driver repair.
 
Hopefully, I can restore this SR-303 to proper working order, and then move on to getting a proper Pro bias amp to drive it. (Or mod one of my SRD-7/SB's jacks to Pro bias somehow. Still need to keep at least one Normal bias jack for my current SR-Lambda. Not sure if I can do that with your Pro bias boards, or even if those boards work without an AC power input.)
 
Jul 16, 2012 at 11:01 AM Post #18,890 of 24,807
I always use a razor blade which is not for the faint of heart. 
tongue.gif
  For the glue I've tried a lot of types and most work just fine.  Some of the DIY ESL sites also sell polyurethane glue which will work perfectly. 
 
The bias boards just need AC and it doesn't matter whether it comes from the wall or if it is "stolen" off the audio signal.  The only issue would be the output voltage from the internal step-up transformer as they changed the design over the years. 
 
Jul 16, 2012 at 3:34 PM Post #18,891 of 24,807
I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to scrape off the old glue with a razor blade, but if I don't have to worry about damaging the stator by scratching too deep into it or something like that (since I know they're coated with an insulation layer), it might be worth a shot to do it right.
 
If most kinds of polyurethane glue work out just fine, then I should be able to get by with a bottle of Gorilla Glue (available in most brick-and-mortar stores here in the US).
 
As for AC input, I didn't think of an amplified audio signal itself being a source of AC power, but it does make sense when I think about it.
 
In other Stax-related news, I just spotted an SR-Lambda Signature with SRD-7/Pro on eBay. I'd try my luck at bidding on it myself and giving the Lambda Sig a spin, but my bank account just won't allow for it, especially with these Steam sales going on! (Also, I really need to save my money for a proper Stax amp with both bias outputs, especially if I get that SR-303 functioning properly.)
 
Jul 17, 2012 at 1:06 AM Post #18,892 of 24,807
Quote:
I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to scrape off the old glue with a razor blade, but if I don't have to worry about damaging the stator by scratching too deep into it or something like that (since I know they're coated with an insulation layer), it might be worth a shot to do it right.
 
If most kinds of polyurethane glue work out just fine, then I should be able to get by with a bottle of Gorilla Glue (available in most brick-and-mortar stores here in the US).
 
As for AC input, I didn't think of an amplified audio signal itself being a source of AC power, but it does make sense when I think about it.
 
In other Stax-related news, I just spotted an SR-Lambda Signature with SRD-7/Pro on eBay. I'd try my luck at bidding on it myself and giving the Lambda Sig a spin, but my bank account just won't allow for it, especially with these Steam sales going on! (Also, I really need to save my money for a proper Stax amp with both bias outputs, especially if I get that SR-303 functioning properly.)

 
Gorilla glue expands quite a bit and works best on wet surfaces so you might want to look elsewhere for fine detail work like this. I found a polyurethane glue here advertised for ESL's though the shipping might be steep.
 
Jul 17, 2012 at 2:16 AM Post #18,894 of 24,807
Quote:
Gorilla glue expands quite a bit and works best on wet surfaces so you might want to look elsewhere for fine detail work like this. I found a polyurethane glue here advertised for ESL's though the shipping might be steep.

 
Argh, just my luck...not all polyurethane glues are suitable for this sort of thing after all. I knew something wasn't quite right when it wanted one of the mating surfaces to be moistened.
 
Maybe I'm getting in over my head with something so seemingly simple, but you never learn until you try. Next thing I know, I'll be making my own electrostatic drivers and mounting them in Lambda frames at this rate...
 
Jul 17, 2012 at 10:37 AM Post #18,896 of 24,807
I use the the 009's on a woo audio headphone stand and the cpc-1 cover over that.  it works well.  I don't see any reason it wouldn't fit over the Sieveking.  
 
Jul 17, 2012 at 10:58 AM Post #18,897 of 24,807

 
Hi Arnaldo ,
Here are three photos of an Headphone stand I got from www.thomann.de . The measurements of this stand are W - 222 D - 156 H - 270mm . It cost me including delivery £83. I don't know the measurements of the Sieveking stands but I'm guessing they're quite similar.
 
                                                                   Dave.
 
Jul 17, 2012 at 11:19 AM Post #18,898 of 24,807
Thanks for the info and pics. These stands seem to apply less pressure on the SR-009 headband than the Stax HPS-2 with that single narrow piece of wood.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by David1961 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Hi Arnaldo ,
Here are three photos of an Headphone stand I got from www.thomann.de . The measurements of this stand are W - 222 D - 156 H - 270mm . It cost me including delivery £83. I don't know the measurements of the Sieveking stands but I'm guessing they're quite similar.
 
                                                                   Dave.

 
Quote:
I use the the 009's on a woo audio headphone stand and the cpc-1 cover over that.  it works well.  I don't see any reason it wouldn't fit over the Sieveking.  

 
Jul 17, 2012 at 11:37 AM Post #18,900 of 24,807
If anyone is wanting to have a look at the stands they have on their website, they have to write headphone stands in quick search which brings up a list, choose any from the list and under the stand showing there's misc headphone accessories, choose that and it shows the stands they do.
 
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