[samandhi]

I just look for something way above my current power outputs. Tbh, I am not quite convinced that more power is needed for most IEMs, but I can’t say for sure unless I check myself, as my E5000 indeed sounds different (technical wise) moving from apple dongle to portable amp. Still, I need something to drive 300 ohms earbuds that I will build in the future.

Budget wise, I am never excited about buying new source I did want to buy Fiio DAP bricks though.

Once again, just my opinion, but if you want something to drive those 300 ohm buds, you CAN drive them from 600mW and up, but this is where the numbers don't seem to always line up. I would offer that you would want something with at least 2W to drive them properly (best scaled sound). But this is not proven, and even suggests that you would "overdrive" them if you do the math.

But, having the 600 ohms Yinmans, I use my 2W amp to drive them, and there is really no comparison to my 1.2W and 600mW amps. They both leave something to be desired in comparison (don't get me wrong, if I had only the 600mW amp I would be happy, but scaling continues throughout the increased power output to combine for better overall sound IMO).

 

[samandhi]

Most IEMs do not really require much power, they are generally of low impedance/high sensitivity. But you have some outliers, eg planars like the Tin P1, and the Final E5000 (low sensitivity) that definitely scale with power. The E5000 really sounds boomy and bloated and one-noted in the bass from a weak source.

Multi BA IEMs generally do not benefit from power, but single DDs to some extent will scale slightly with power - tighter bass, better soundstage and improved dynamics. When you go higher and higher up the ladder, perhaps people will chase these last few % sonic improvements, as the source ends up being the bottle-neck in the chain.

Amplification is not about volume and just jacking up the volume to the max with a planar on a weak apple dongle. Driving something to get sound and driving something well are two different stories. Sometimes you cannot unhear what you have heard with good amplification on a power hungry device haha, so the rabbithole beckons.


Earbuds and headphones on the other hand, generally come with higher impedance than IEMs, so yeah getting an amp for them is a good idea in the long run.

This exactly! I couldn't have worded it better myself.

Edit: And yes I can vouch for those P1s. They are really hard to drive (still)...

 

[syazwaned]

None, really that I can detect. Longyao-Yinman 龙谣音曼 have been uncannily consistent with the 600Ω line across all versions, re-runs, and/or editions. Very surprising! The mmcx version is no longer available unless you find NOS/NIB somewhere (doubtful, as I hunted around hard for them) or you buy second-hand from someone.

thanks. Appreciate it!

 

[syazwaned]

Most IEMs do not really require much power, they are generally of low impedance/high sensitivity. But you have some outliers, eg planars like the Tin P1, and the Final E5000 (low sensitivity) that definitely scale with power. The E5000 really sounds boomy and bloated and one-noted in the bass from a weak source.

Multi BA IEMs generally do not benefit from power, but single DDs to some extent will scale slightly with power - tighter bass, better soundstage and improved dynamics. When you go higher and higher up the ladder, perhaps people will chase these last few % sonic improvements, as the source ends up being the bottle-neck in the chain.

Amplification is not about volume and just jacking up the volume to the max with a planar on a weak apple dongle. Driving something to get sound and driving something well are two different stories. Sometimes you cannot unhear what you have heard with good amplification on a power hungry device haha, so the rabbithole beckons.


Earbuds and headphones on the other hand, generally come with higher impedance than IEMs, so yeah getting an amp for them is a good idea in the long run.

this is true. my e3k sounds limps on Apogee Groove. while my hd600 can sounds good on the same device. Only my recent acquisition Questyle m15 can drive e3k to dynamically enough. m15 also makes me confident to acquire Yinman 600 ohms

 

[JAnonymous5150]

as i wrote a bit in my post:


and to add a bit more, i might describe the sound as "middle of the road", can't go wrong with it, but not too special in specific aspects.
also this impression is me using it without any foams,as using even really thin foams (though i like the added subbass volume) makes the treble too laid back for my taste..not veiled, the detail of the trebles are still there, but the volume of the treble would get pushed back.

but i think for people who likes to listen with higher volume, using foams would be great as the treble would not be piercing.

can't wait to hear your impression on the EMA when you have it, i hope you like it too

As soon as they show up and I get a good session or two with them, I will definitely post my impressions. Thanks for the added detail on yours. I'll be paying close attention to the treble versus foams advantages and disadvantages as I listen and experiment. Cheers!

 

[madeyasay]

I know I'm not who you asked for suggestions, but if you're looking for pk kind of shell shapes the you could try the Yuin PK1, Yuin OK2, Shozy Cygnus, ShoonTH ESEP-01BLE, and Sunrise Audio Dragon 2 Limited Edition. I'm sure there are more pk or similar shell based options for you but all of these are relatively close to that $99 mark that the FF3 cost as my suggestions here range fr $89 to $138. Some of these are really well regarded too. I hope this helps or at least gives you options.

Thank a lot, I'll start checking these out! I welcome all suggestions from anyone

Try double foam (a second foam on top of the first). I need to do it with some of my earbuds for a secure fit.

Hmm, for some reason I had the impression they were too big for my ears for them to fit properly. But now that you mentioned this I compared them to my old Sennheisers and they're actually slightly smaller so that makes sense. I'll try double foam and silicone rings like @hongky mentioned if I can find some.

 

[o0genesis0o]

this is true. my e3k sounds limps on Apogee Groove. while my hd600 can sounds good on the same device. Only my recent acquisition Questyle m15 can drive e3k to dynamically enough. m15 also makes me confident to acquire Yinman 600 ohms

(Unrelated topic, sorry everyone)

E3000’s transient response behavior can be improved by removing the acoustic filter at the back (behind the metal dust net). Yes, the midbass would be a couple db louder, but it can be driven with authority from a normal dongle like KA3. You can expect similar resolution with the E5000. If you can find a way to open the front vent (hidden under the nozzle), you will be able to reduce the midbass a bit as well.

 

[weexisttocease]

Next week I will receive the Pislo PXVV. No idea what to expect but hopefully they sound great.

 

[syazwaned]

(Unrelated topic, sorry everyone)

E3000’s transient response behavior can be improved by removing the acoustic filter at the back (behind the metal dust net). Yes, the midbass would be a couple db louder, but it can be driven with authority from a normal dongle like KA3. You can expect similar resolution with the E5000. If you can find a way to open the front vent (hidden under the nozzle), you will be able to reduce the midbass a bit as well.

thanks Interesting, is there any image or video that I can refer too? Sorry I have a clumsy hands

 

[o0genesis0o]

thanks Interesting, is there any image or video that I can refer too? Sorry I have a clumsy hands

You can just use a pair of tweezers to twist the metal mesh. It would fall off, but there would be still enough glue to attach it back. After removing the mesh, you will see a fabric filter covering a back vent. Remove it, and then close the metal mesh to prevent dust from entering. If you don’t like the sound, you can put everything back.

 

[mt877]

I just look for something way above my current power outputs. Tbh, I am not quite convinced that more power is needed for most IEMs, but I can’t say for sure unless I check myself, as my E5000 indeed sounds different (technical wise) moving from apple dongle to portable amp. Still, I need something to drive 300 ohms earbuds that I will build in the future.

Budget wise, I am never excited about buying new source I did want to buy Fiio DAP bricks though.

Going a bit off topic, but hey it's to drive some fine buds...

I picked up one of these amps... A few others in this thread also have this amp. I think you can drive pretty much everything you have.

Kaei Tap-1s - Portable desktop full balanced headphone tube amp + linear power supply.

Recommended headphone impedance: 12-600Ω

Maximum Output Power (L+R):

Battery Mode (Portable Mode):

Balanced:
3000mw (16Ω)
2100mw (32Ω)
1100mw (100Ω)
450mw (300Ω)

Single-Ended:
1200mw (16Ω)
700mw (32Ω)
440mw (100Ω)
200mw (300Ω)

Desktop Mode (Linear power supply):

Balanced :
4900mw (16Ω)
3200mw (32Ω)
2000mw (100Ω)
990mw (300Ω)

Single-Ended :
1980mw (16Ω)
1400mw (32Ω)
900mw (100Ω)
480mw (300Ω)

 

[silverszi]

ok so you know how i was going off about my eq
its not the eq
it's definitely the driver
there's a hiss on the left but not the right channel, ive checked with both ears
should i return the lbbs or just try to fix it
because im also p sure the left driver is damaged

 

[JAnonymous5150]

ok so you know how i was going off about my eq
its not the eq
it's definitely the driver
there's a hiss on the left but not the right channel, ive checked with both ears
should i return the lbbs or just try to fix it
because im also p sure the left driver is damaged

I think you answered your own question. If you think the driver itself is damaged that's definitely something worth sending the buds back over. It would be different if the hiss was just a grounding issue or something similar that could be fixed with 2 minutes and a soldering iron, but you can't fix damage to the driver.

I would probably send it back over either problem myself because I'm one of those crazy people who thinks products should be 100% functional out of the box. When I buy something that's more than a few bucks and it has obvious manufacturing flaws, I return or exchange it to get a properly made version. I know it sucks to go through the hassle, but that's the only way to hold manufacturers and retailers accountable for making/selling crappy products.

 

[samandhi]

ok so you know how i was going off about my eq
its not the eq
it's definitely the driver
there's a hiss on the left but not the right channel, ive checked with both ears
should i return the lbbs or just try to fix it
because im also p sure the left driver is damaged

I think you answered your own question. If you think the driver itself is damaged that's definitely something worth sending the buds back over. It would be different if the hiss was just a grounding issue or something similar that could be fixed with 2 minutes and a soldering iron, but you can't fix damage to the driver.

I would probably send it back over either problem myself because I'm one of those crazy people who thinks products should be 100% functional out of the box. When I buy something that's more than a few bucks and it has obvious manufacturing flaws, I return or exchange it to get a properly made version. I know it sucks to go through the hassle, but that's the only way to hold manufacturers and retailers accountable for making/selling crappy products.

Very well said! And I totally agree! These companies need to be held accountable (not just for the good things, but also the bad things).

 

[AsciiJC]

Going a bit off topic, but hey it's to drive some fine buds...

I picked up one of these amps... A few others in this thread also have this amp. I think you can drive pretty much everything you have.

Kaei Tap-1s - Portable desktop full balanced headphone tube amp + linear power supply.

Recommended headphone impedance: 12-600Ω

Maximum Output Power (L+R):

Battery Mode (Portable Mode):

Balanced:
3000mw (16Ω)
2100mw (32Ω)
1100mw (100Ω)
450mw (300Ω)

Single-Ended:
1200mw (16Ω)
700mw (32Ω)
440mw (100Ω)
200mw (300Ω)

Desktop Mode (Linear power supply):

Balanced :
4900mw (16Ω)
3200mw (32Ω)
2000mw (100Ω)
990mw (300Ω)

Single-Ended :
1980mw (16Ω)
1400mw (32Ω)
900mw (100Ω)
480mw (300Ω)

Oh? This has peaked my curiosity now! I may pick one up myself actually if this is something to consider.

Ive been wanting a nice bud source for a while now... this could be one!