phthora
Headphoneus Supremus
How much warmth does the amp add?
I had a pair of Fostex TH500RP planars did not like with WA2 if i recall not enough power . never liked that pairing ended up selling the Fostex not my thingI've been looking through this thread for a while, but I can't seem to find anyone mentioning how the LCD-X pairs with the WA2. There are people taking about pairing that HP with the WA22 and the WA6SE, but I can't tell how similar those amps would be to the WA2.
So, United Woo Ampers, how does the WA2 do with low-impedance planars like the LCD-X?
Also, is the WA6SE really brightish in sound? A couple of reviews mentioned that it was.
Thanks.
I had a pair of Fostex TH500RP planars did not like with WA2 if i recall not enough power . never liked that pairing ended up selling the Fostex not my thing
I'll take the WA8. I auditioned both and I didn't like the WA7 it was a little too sharp, the WA8 was amazing and it's transportable.Quick question:
The WA7 (1st gen with tube power supply) or the WA8?
and why?
Old version with DACT CT2My 2-cents re: can fuses out of direct audio circuitry path affect sound quality? I think they can, but there are so many other factors to consider that differences in sound quality can be do to unexplained and complex electronic interactions between components in and out of the audio chain.
If a fuse acts as a significant resistance to current flow, that could "steal" or limit the amp's current requirement for reproduction of the lowest frequencies. So a skimpy, resistive fuse could rob your bass of the fullness (low end frequency response) of your bass. I was given a solid silver bar for use in my DAC as a replacement for the fuse, and don't notice any audible difference in the DAC's output signal as fed to my WA22. But since a DAC is a low-level device, and the WA22 is a Current and Voltage-producing device, a silver fuse (99.99%) should be the best in terms of electron, and therefore, current, flow. Does a pure silver fuse behave in non-linear manner the greater the current flow? In other words, is there a hysteresis that affects the fuse's resistivity as the current flow fluctuates? Maybe, but I'd expect that more with a typical BUSS fuse rather than a 4-nines silver bar. I'd expect a cheap fuse to exhibit more impedance (variance of the measured resistance/a feature of AC circuits) than simple resistance (a feature of DC circuits) and bass loss.
Add to this that at least traditionally, headphones were at one time more voltage-dependent than current-dependent devices. Remember that magnetic planar cans and Litz cabling have/add capacitive effects as well.
I use headphones that work with traditional drivers (Sennheisers), and those that, because they are magnetic planars (Anandas), are probably heir to capacitive effects. I have seen finely-tuned stereo amplifiers, whose circuit topology has them operating on the ragged edge of instability (for example, with no negative feedback), blow all of their outputs with Litz speaker or more esoteric cabling by instigating parasitic oscillation, so be mindful that your cables can have a much greater effect on sound quality than a lowly PS fuse. I was using, at the time, Magnepan MG-IIbs and Martin Logan CLS electrostats...known for their capacitive loads, which made things even more touchy. There are so many countervailing electronic issues in and out of the audio chain that changing out a PS fuse simply shouldn't provide large sonic effects on the audio chain by itself.
Many years ago, I did a "test" to see whether beefing up a power supply in a common audio amplifier could improve that amplifier's low-end performance. I used a Hafler DH101 and gutted the bridge rectifier, and replaced it with one that had twice the current capability. I doubled the value of the PS capacitors. I replaced the ON/OFF toggle with a beefier one. The improvement in the solidity and power of the bass response was incredible. Knowing that Hafler had used MOSFET outputs, I took a chance that I would NOT have taken with regular bipolar output transistors. But my point is that providing the audio circuit with unfettered access to clean, raw DC power made a huge difference. Contrast this with likely minute differences in available AC power from the wall. I'm not convinced that the effect of changing one "good" fuse with another would make a tangible difference.
I suspect that today's headphones are far more current-dependent than ever before. I have not measured the current output capabilities of the WA22, but with a set of TS5998 or TS7236 tubes or 421As, I suspect it is substantial. I also suspect (although I have no proof) that because the WA22 is built like a brick schiithouse, that Woo Audio has considered most of these esoteric electronic interactions, but from what I am told, has decided to keep it's Class A circuit simple. Everyone has heard the "keep it simple, stupid" admonition....I believe it's a good one.
I dare not ever open my WA22 although I'd love to see a picture of the point-to-point wiring we hear so much about. If any of you have a photo and could share it, I'd love to see it.