[joseph69]

  I've had the WA6 running for 5 hours now, with the WU4GB in it. The copper cap is still cool to the touch, and every part (except maybe the bottom, didn't try it) of the WA6 is cool to the touch. Only things hot are the driver/power tubes. I'll try to put the same 5 hours on the WZ34 this weekend and see about it, but since I can't tell a difference, and Glenn says the WU4GB is better for the amp than the WZ34

Thanks.
I thought Glenn had mentioned that the WU4GB was better for the WA5 not the WA6, but I might have misunderstood.

 

[Porteroso]

 

  I've had the WA6 running for 5 hours now, with the WU4GB in it. The copper cap is still cool to the touch, and every part (except maybe the bottom, didn't try it) of the WA6 is cool to the touch. Only things hot are the driver/power tubes. I'll try to put the same 5 hours on the WZ34 this weekend and see about it, but since I can't tell a difference, and Glenn says the WU4GB is better for the amp than the WZ34

Thanks.
I thought Glenn had mentioned that the WU4GB was better for the WA5 not the WA6, but I might have misunderstood.

I don't think he outright said that, but I think he said the WZ34 might have too little sag. Anyhow, I think that was the intention, for him to say that the WU4GB was the best option for the WA6 as well as the WA5.

 

[joseph69]

  I don't think he outright said that, but I think he said the WZ34 might have too little sag. Anyhow, I think that was the intention, for him to say that the WU4GB was the best option for the WA6 as well as the WA5.

 I wasn't quite clear about which one to go with according to the post…the confusion was my misunderstanding, not Glenns post.

 

[2359glenn]

The Copper cap is just 2 diodes and a resistor to make the voltage drop. With just a resistor the voltage drop will be
greater with a amp that draws more current. So a WA6 is going to draw the least current so it will have the lowest
voltage drop of all amps using the Copper cap.
The WU4GB is 50 volts drop at 275ma if your amp does not draw that much current that voltage drop will be much less.
In a WA-6 actually it might be safest to use a WY3GT drop of 50 volts drop at 125ma.
 
The voltage drop is needed so you don't go over voltage on the filter capacitors in your amp and blow them up.
 
Now that I thoroughly confused every body I got to get to work.

 

[joseph69]

  The Copper cap is just 2 diodes and a resistor to make the voltage drop. With just a resistor the voltage drop will be
greater with a amp that draws more current. So a WA6 is going to draw the least current so it will have the lowest
voltage drop of all amps using the Copper cap.
The WU4GB is 50 volts drop at 275ma if your amp does not draw that much current that voltage drop will be much less.
In a WA-6 actually it might be safest to use a WY3GT drop of 50 volts drop at 125ma.
 
The voltage drop is needed so you don't go over voltage on the filter capacitors in your amp and blow them up.
 
Now that I thoroughly confused every body I got to get to work.

Thank you  again. I thought you had mentioned a different cap other than the WU4GB for the WA6.

 

[Badas]

My Woo WA22 now has some competition. The Violectric V281.
Ever since I heard this amp I've always wanted one.

 

[phase0]

My Woo WA22 now has some competition. The Violectric V281.
Ever since I heard this amp I've always wanted one.

 
Ha congrats! Do you like one over the other? I like not waiting for tubes to warm up sometimes. I got some copper caps too. I haven't tried to compare to the Brimar or Mullards I have. They do sound good, and the amp doesn't seem to be any different temperature-wise from running the Brimar. So I'm assuming now I have something equiv or better than Tak 274Bs. I got the copper caps at the same time as I got some new used headphones so I was paying more attention to that at the time.

 

[Badas]

Ha congrats! Do you like one over the other? I like not waiting for tubes to warm up sometimes. I got some copper caps too. I haven't tried to compare to the Brimar or Mullards I have. They do sound good, and the amp doesn't seem to be any different temperature-wise from running the Brimar. So I'm assuming now I have something equiv or better than Tak 274Bs. I got the copper caps at the same time as I got some new used headphones so I was paying more attention to that at the time.

V281 is stunning. Beats WA22 easily. There is a reason many members have moved to it.

It is the only SS amp I have heard that actually competes with tubes on warmth and holographics. Even tho my WA22 is pimped out I think the V281 actually beats it in holographics. It must be something to do wth using 4 individual amps in balanced mode. Magic.

 

[Rossliew]

V281 is stunning. Beats WA22 easily. There is a reason many members have moved to it.

It is the only SS amp I have heard that actually competes with tubes on warmth and holographics. Even tho my WA22 is pimped out I think the V281 actually beats it in holographics. It must be something to do wth using 4 individual amps in balanced mode. Magic.

Does it beat your wa22 with SS rectifier?

 

[Badas]

Does it beat your wa22 with SS rectifier?

Yes.

 

[shapeshifter44]

Looking for a balanced DAC for my WA22 with Sennheiser Hd800s. I usually listen to classical music.
 
Requirements: 1. Around $1000 dollar. 2. MUST be able to work fine with a CD transport/player! 
 
For example: I know Schiit Gumby is a good choice, but it is not compatible with most CD transports/players (it would make extensively clicking sounds and even erase the first couple of seconds of each song in a CD).
 
Thank you guys a lot!!!

 

[jerick70]

Looking for a DAC for my WA22 with Sennheiser Hd800s. I usually listen to classical music.

Requirements: 1. Around $1000 dollar. 2. MUST be able to work fine with a CD transport/player! 

For example: I know Schiit Gumby is a good choice, but it is not compatible with most CD transports/players (it would make extensively clicking sounds and even erase the first couple of seconds of each song in a CD).

Thank you guys a lot!!!

Here are a few DACs to look at in that price range. I'm not sure if they will work correctly with your CD transport. I've included quite a few different DACs depending on the sound signature that you like.

Matrix X-Sabre

Anything from MHDT Lab (I have an Atlantis in my main system right now and I love it)

Audio-GD DAC19 or NOS19 (for SE) NFB28 (for balanced)

Eastern Electric DAC Plus (there is one in the classifieds right now.)

Used LH Labs Geek Pulse Infinity

Used Burson Conductor (old model)

Used Ayre QB9 (there's one in the classifieds)

 

[leftside]

Looking forward to seeing 20 years worth of tubes coming onto the market that a few months ago blew everything else away
 
I've noticed a lot of people on here always rave about how much better the shiny new toy is over the old toy. Maybe it's similar to a new girlfriend/boyfriend where they seem so much better than the old girlfriend/boyfriend, but a year later things aren't quite so rosy...
 
With headphone amps I tend to try and keep both around for a while, and it looks like Badas is going to do the same (be interested in your thoughts after a few months, but have to admit I'm already intrigued). I had a few headphone amps, but now I'm down to just two (both tubes). Adding a SS headphone amp could make for a nice addition, but I can't see myself not ever having a tube headphone amp.

 

[eschell27]

I would agree that the dac-19 / NOS-19 is an excellent choice... another one to add to the list might be Metrum Musette. I've been pretty interested in hearing their newer dacs with the new Transient chips they are using.

 

[shapeshifter44]

Thanks man. Just not sure if any in the list would have no issue with a CD transport since I listen to tons of cds. By the way, I only consider a balanced DAC now. 
Thank you again.