[Oscar-HiFi]

I’ve been chatting to Przem @Shipibo lately about the slim rodblocks/gimbals and Zebrano cups. It looks like you got the first pair of gimbals and last pair of cups. Basically you built the headphones I was planning. Gotta say Nice job tho, even if it looks like you stole my planned cans! You haven’t said which drivers are going in them tho, it’s not Turbulent X is it? If not I may still have a chance of originals! Tho I have been looking at Rhydons c7 3D printed cup too

At the moment its only going to be some SR60e drivers, but hopefully some Nhoords one day

These are prototype rodblocks and gimbals, that are for an article to highlight @shipibo in an article on our website for Grado style parts

 

[capnjack]

At the moment its only going to be some SR60e drivers, but hopefully some Nhoords one day

These are prototype rodblocks and gimbals, that are for an article to highlight @shipibo in an article on our website for Grado style parts

Przem told me about your doing a review/article and that he’d sent you his prototypes, he was also very open about difficulties he was having sourcing the rods in Europe. He ended up getting them from the US! Mine hopefully will be finished this week and arrive by Christmas hopefully.

The Nhoords are on special at the moment, Jaco is selling them for €70 inc shipping!

 

[Shoewreck]

Just found a replacement for Prestige Series housing front piece. Perfectly fits driver, cup and cushions:

Requires some cutting, but allows a greater housing extension.

 

[DavidA]

@Shoewreck, what are the benefits of the greater extension? Also, where can you purchase these?

 

[Shoewreck]

@DavidA, 50DN sewer pipe end caps can be purchased in a plumbery store.
Longer air chambers (I believe the optimum is around 1") produce a resonant peak that sounds natural to a human ear.

 

[cathee]

this is a very optimistic question, but: does anyone know of a database for different materials and the frequencies they absorb?

i've been trying different density/textured silks on the driver (ear-side) to kill a little bit of sibilance in a new build

 

[WoodyLuvr]

this is a very optimistic question, but: does anyone know of a database for different materials and the frequencies they absorb?

i've been trying different density/textured silks on the driver (ear-side) to kill a little bit of sibilance in a new build

Here is a thread that addresses this subject: Effect of Materials (Wood/Metal/Plastic) on Sound

 

[capnjack]

So after the initial disappointment of a faulty driver
(quickly sorted by @jinteddy7 - thanks for your help)


I threw my SR60i’s into a new home! Hope you guys like ‘em?



I like the way they sound in the c7’s!

 

[DavidA]

@capnjack , nice work. Is there something other than the solder joints holding the cables in the cups? I'd really suggest a zip tie or similar since a hard tug on the cable might pull the small circuit board off the driver or install a jack to make the cables removable so a least the jack will have to be broken before any damage will occur to the circuit board.

 

[capnjack]

@capnjack , nice work. Is there something other than the solder joints holding the cables in the cups? I'd really suggest a zip tie or similar since a hard tug on the cable might pull the small circuit board off the driver or install a jack to make the cables removable so a least the jack will have to be broken before any damage will occur to the circuit board.

The c7 cups have the cable guide on the outside to thread the cable through so it is actually quite a tight fit. However I agree that a small black cable tie on each cable would make it more secure in the event of a mishap! I was debating making them a single sided cable with the Sony headband it would be an easy job.

 

[WoodyLuvr]

The c7 cups have the cable guide on the outside to thread the cable through so it is actually quite a tight fit. However I agree that a small black cable tie on each cable would make it more secure in the event of a mishap! I was debating making them a single sided cable with the Sony headband it would be an easy job.

Old school, bi-wired!

 

[rexhu100]

I have gone down the dark path of cutting open my R2e...

 

[rexhu100]

One question though: how do I tell the positive and negative on each side of the driver?

 

[wormsdriver]

you could mark a small dot with a sharpie on each driver. Positive is the one with the red wire and white wire on the drivers.

or if you're looking at the back side of the drivers, with the soldering pads facing the top/up. The left side solder pads are the positive side

 

[wormsdriver]