Orthodynamic Roundup

[Hutnicks]

Anyone have any thoughts on conductive epoxy for this repair?  I have used it in other scenarios where it worked quite well, but never on an ortho driver.

 

[GREQ]

  Anyone have any thoughts on conductive epoxy for this repair?  I have used it in other scenarios where it worked quite well, but never on an ortho driver.

Isn't the cable just loose from the solder point?
 
I thought this was nothing more than a re-solder???

 

[Hutnicks]

  Isn't the cable just loose from the solder point?
 
I thought this was nothing more than a re-solder???

OK. Wasnt sure whether the tab was intact or not.  Match solder may be an option as well. Extremely low melting point.

 

[leeperry]

  Can you explain the difference between the two original round driver versions of the T20?

 
They both sound horrible, terrible headphones really. Wualta knows a lot more than I ever will, too bad he's cruising on AK these days as we've apparently exhausted his patience.

 

[MuZo2]

   
They both sound horrible, terrible headphones really.

 

[Hutnicks]

   
They both sound horrible, terrible headphones really. Wualta knows a lot more than I ever will, too bad he's cruising on AK these days as we've apparently exhausted his patience.

We have the ability to do that.  I certainly hope AK is not the Astell & Kearns site

 
Having the second gen T20 I was just curious to see if the first version was equally horrific in SQ.

 

[leeperry]

 

 
lolwut what I said?

 

  I certainly hope AK is not the Astell & Kearns site

 
last seen 20 mins ago: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/what-stylus-is-this.577672/
 
good news is: he's still around, just not with us..c'est la vie.

 

[Hutnicks]

   
lolwut what I said?

 
 
last seen 20 mins ago: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/what-stylus-is-this.577672/
 
good news is: he's still around, just not with us..c'est la vie.

I wonder if he could be incited to start an ortho thread over there?
 
Hey, aren't you supposed to be over on the amprolling thread explaining how to underwire a FET to your opamp socket

 

[wild bill]

Well apparently, we have come full circle in this thread, after 9 years, I recently received the new Fostex T50 mk3 fitted with the ridiculously thick and luxurious ZMF cowhide pads (and pilot pad) and, oh my, only my Stax Lambda Pro's sound better, and they do not have this much bass - these are marketed as a semi-open can, but they are some of the more closed headphones I have even used. (not a bad thing)
 
They must have made some significant changes, the mk2's did not sound this nice out of the box, and those giant cowhide pads really take the bass and the comfort to a whole other planet! - woohoo!
 
These things are some of the most non-fatiguing headphones ever! - You can listen for hours and never get that feeling that certain frequencies are getting on your nerves!
 
These may not spec out on their frequency curves as pretty as some, but they sure are a blast to have on your head!
 
Right now I am drawing a blank in the under $1000 category of any cans that I would rather be listening to!
 

 

[ericj]

T20v2 isn't that bad. V1 was just a dry, sterile, bass-lite studio can. Both improve with mods.

They are terrible because of the ultra sweaty pads

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes

 

[HerrWallen]

Sorry for the delayed response, real-life interfered and I received the Yamahas ... and man, just wow!
Plugged in to my NAD 7020 they sing! Just hoping that I'll be able to tame that slight mid-range honk a bit with modding
 
Quote:

   
Straight up - it might be. 
 
The ring is there to make contact with the opposite side of the diaphragm. If you have a steady hand you can check the continuity of the driver by placing a probe on the silver foil at the edge and then touching the middle of the driver. 
 

 
Thanks for the reassurance, I need it.
Since english is my second language I might be slightly off on the terminology here: "a probe" as in feeding a small current with a proper dingus? Should the diaphragm "vibrate" to the touch?
 

  You can put them back as it was and solder them, while putting them back be extra careful, magnets can snap and destroy the diaphragm. Dont let the solder gun sit on diaphragm for too long, you should be quick.

 
What concerns me the most is the fact that this is aluminium but per dBel84's advice I'll use lead-free solder.
 

   
 
This could be an easy fix.
 
The diaphragm is essentially sandwiched between two rings of metal.
Each ring has one solder point.
Just solder your solder point back to the ring.
 
It gets more dangerous if you can't separate the diaphragm from the ring.
If the diaphragm gets hot, you risk damaging it.
If the diaphragm does not peel off with feather-touch ease, I would not try to peel it off by force, as you risk damaging it.
 
You want it to look LIKE THIS before you start soldering the broken metal back together.
If it does not do this naturally, don't force it.
 

 
If you can't separate the diaphragm like this, you need to work VERY quickly on the solder joint to prevent heat reaching the diaphragm.

 
If the diaphragm comes lose as you describe, can I actually remove it completely and re-attach it after solder?
 

  Anyone have any thoughts on conductive epoxy for this repair?  I have used it in other scenarios where it worked quite well, but never on an ortho driver.

 
I was actually recommended trying the epoxy by a friend with some history in electronics (altough, he couldn't vouch for its effectiveness on aluminium).
 

  Isn't the cable just loose from the solder point?
 
I thought this was nothing more than a re-solder???

 
No, it is more like the "rod" ending up in the solder point that's broken off.
 

 
OK. Wasnt sure whether the tab was intact or not.  Match solder may be an option as well. Extremely low melting point.

 
I've read generally bad things about match solder and am not entirely sure that it is even available here :/
 
I just wanted to say thank you for lending me your time here, it's much appreciated. Most likely (if things goes bad) I'll bugger you guys with questions regarding HP-1 modding later
 
Regards, Jorgen.

 

[GREQ]

 
If the diaphragm comes lose as you describe, can I actually remove it completely and re-attach it after solder?

You don't even need to reattach it.
Simply making the ring-diaphragm-ring 'sandwich' makes the electrical contact needed for this driver to work.

 

[Mad Max]

  You don't even need to reattach it.
Simply making the ring-diaphragm-ring 'sandwich' makes the electrical contact needed for this driver to work.

 
Not working for me, so something's up.

 

[nick n]

Does one side of the ring need to be placed vs the other nonconductive side? No idea.
 
There is this of interest.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/797177/amfiton-tds16-echo-transplant-into-audiotechnica-ath-ad500
He is referencing the larger versions by the way.
Can't expect any low end as stated in the video, with the pads like that. I guess mine here sound just ok. Wikiphonia has some impressions on the larger bodied ones ( known as KIEV ) I think Sergei mentioned that TDS-16 KIEV version is nothing all that great or standout. Too bad.

 
On the smaller SMELA versions I am quickly retweaking a set for someone not frequenting this thread, according to what i nailed down with my old ones.
 
thought I would throw up the semi-ok pictures I took since I lost my last info with those.
 
On the following the final coup de grace tweak is of course Sorbothane.
If you are not using it yet you are not maximizing your headphones' potential. In most cases.
In comparison, quite simply the level of Sorbothane's effects makes Dynamat's effects seem like a complete unnoticeable joke.
 
Somebody else in here is currently noticing the Sorb fun but I will let them comment if they want.
 
" Smela " TDS-16 Sorbothane Mod Basics: ( Actually this black badge version I believe is also made in Kiev like the larger ones, but ignore that  since that is only information for geeks )

1. Twaron Angelhair in rears = 0.2 grams
2. Arctic Cotton disc on rear of drivers slit to slide under center contact tabs, fuzzy side to driver ( removed stock rear black fabric dustguard )
3. 4 @ 5mm x 23 mm strips Sorbothane ( 1/10 inch 30D ) rear cups
4. 2 @5mm x 26mm Sorbothane strips ( 1/10 inch 30D ) on driver edges split into 3 sections if necessary, total amount is what matters try to duplicate sides
5. 4 small Dynamat squares per side to hold driver tight to baffle
6. Aftermarket 65mm pads that have near identical inner opening and height profile to stock
7. Buffalo leather headband strap ( replacement of hard as rock vinyl one ) double layered but left one single layer at screw point or it will crack the plastic plates.

^ this set has the really cool looking textured chromed metal band!!! Only one I have seen like that out of oh, I dunno... let's say a lot! LOVE IT

^ Arctic Cotton  slit to fit around tab

^ 0.2 grams Angel Hair

^ Sorb strips placement rear cups at 4 spots

^ Sorb strips placed around driver edges  in this case the total length is split into 3 spots avoiding screwposts
 
 
*********** For future reference if anyone gets a set of the smaller SMELA versions, and has the set with 3 clear wires and one red / or even loose drivers... the center pin of the driver is the positive +++++
 

 
*Ideally with some orthos as much sorb as can be fit, but obvious space limitations here.

 

[PR4XXIS]

I have found the TDS 16 to be better sounding than anything I have listened to so far. I am by no means an audiophile and my only other experience with orthos are the T50RP V2's from mayflower and they did not sound as good as these Kiev phones I have. Other versions of my cans are said to sound better. But I could not be happier with my setup and once the TDS 15s arrive I will putting them into a AD500x frame. I originally considered using a Takstar frame like another headfier here, cannot recall the name now. I just love the comfort of tehse AT frames too damn much.
 
But I considered a Sennheiser HD595, Panasonic RP-HTF890-S, Koss UR-40, Superlux HD668B, Phillips SHP9500 and the ATH-TAD400 after scrapping the Takstar HI2050 idea was scrapped.