[leeperry]

Out of its context it goes along with the "Head-Fi, the only place where you can plug headphones into a laptop, have them not work, and say "thank goodness it's just the laptop"" tagline ^^
 
True but I like my mods reversible and newplast absorbs resonances better than pretty much anything else:
 
http://qualia.webs.com/dampingfactor.htm
 
http://qualia.webs.com/newdampingfactors.htm

 

[HerrWallen]

Trying to browse trough this thread, oh boy!
 
Recently (this week actually) found (and bought) both a pair of Fostex T20v1 and Yamaha HP-1, a pretty rare sighting on the swedish ebay-owned auctionsite Tradera.
 
Neither has arrived yet but I'm trying to prepare myself for some modding, specifically dampening the driver/housing.
 
On the HP-1 it seems pretty straight forward and I have even found a few places online describing most of the steps needed to mod.
The T20s on the other hand, not so much. 
One thing this thread speak of is that the driver on the v1 is a bit fragile and the magnets can come loose.
 
My question is: does anyone have some tips/tricks for dampening the T20v1, and most importantly, how to best open them without harming the driver.
 
I have modded (recabled etc) dynamic headphones before, so I'm not totally lost here  
 
Thanks in advance
 
Jorgen, Sweden.

 

[BucketInABucket]

  how to best open them without harming the driver.

For the T20v1, just unscrew and open as it's a very simple affair. Don't worry about damaging the magnets at this point as unless you drop them they'll be perfectly fine.

 

[Hutnicks]

  For the T20v1, just unscrew and open as it's a very simple affair. Don't worry about damaging the magnets at this point as unless you drop them they'll be perfectly fine.

Is that the same for T20MKI v2?  I was led to believe that the housings are actually what is holding the driver together.

 

[BucketInABucket]

Is that the same for T20MKI v2?  I was led to believe that the housings are actually what is holding the driver together.

Iirc there's a separate piece screwed onto the back of the baffle which holds the driver together. Separating the whole baffle from the cup won't cause the driver to fall apart because of this.



That's the T10 which has a very similar structure to the T20v1 and I think the T20v2 has this too.

 

[HerrWallen]

Iirc there's a separate piece screwed onto the back of the baffle which holds the driver together. Separating the whole baffle from the cup won't cause the driver to fall apart because of this.

That's the T10 which has a very similar structure to the T20v1 and I think the T20v2 has this too.

Thank you very much for clarification, like Hutnicks I was under the impression that the driver essentially came lose as you unscrewed the baffle.

 

[Hutnicks]

Thank you very much for clarification, like Hutnicks I was under the impression that the driver essentially came lose as you unscrewed the baffle.

I had visions of flying magnets and diaphragms dancing in my head

 

[leeperry]

  I had visions of flying magnets and diaphragms dancing in my head

 
vintage orthos kill, I mean literally.

 

[Hutnicks]

   
vintage orthos kill, I mean literally.

Wondered where you were at Can you explain the difference between the two original round driver versions of the T20?

 

[HerrWallen]

Hey guys, again
 
Got the Fostex T20s today and unfortunately it doesn't look good
 
The left channel was dead and wiggling the cable didn't help so I opened the cup only to find that one of the solderingpoints where broken.
I then open the driver to inspect and it basically came in four pieces:
 

 
Two magnets, a diaphragm and a ring (which I can only imagine is a part of the diaphragm construction)..
 
Give it to me straight: are these reparabel at all?
My initial idea is to try to solder the cable back into whats left on the diaphragm, although while trying to get current across by having the pieces touch didn't produce any sound in the (reassembled) driver.
 
Finding another driver i literally impossible in Sweden to my knowledge, any recommendations on where to best look for them?
 
At this point, my only consolation is the Yamahas that is due to arrive tomorrow, hopefully they are in better condition.
 
Regards, Jorgen 

 

[BucketInABucket]

Edit: ouch, reread your post again and it's more dire than it seems, sorry!

 

[HerrWallen]

Edit: ouch, reread your post again and it's more dire than it seems, sorry!

Ok, dire in what way?

 

[dBel84]

  The left channel was dead and wiggling the cable didn't help so I opened the cup only to find that one of the solderingpoints where broken.
I then open the driver to inspect and it basically came in four pieces:
Two magnets, a diaphragm and a ring (which I can only imagine is a part of the diaphragm construction)..
 
Give it to me straight: ...
 
At this point, my only consolation is the Yamahas that is due to arrive tomorrow, hopefully they are in better condition.
 
Regards, Jorgen 

 
Straight up - it might be. 
 
The tabs need aluminium solder which is not the easiest but also not impossible. The new lead free solder should actually work a treat although I have not tried. 
 
The ring is there to make contact with the opposite side of the diaphragm. If you have a steady hand you can check the continuity of the driver by placing a probe on the silver foil at the edge and then touching the middle of the driver. 
 
good luck and enjoy the yamaha. 
 
..dB 

 

[MuZo2]

   

 

You can put them back as it was and solder them, while putting them back be extra careful, magnets can snap and destroy the diaphragm. Dont let the solder gun sit on diaphragm for too long, you should be quick.

 

[GREQ]

 
 
This could be an easy fix.
 
The diaphragm is essentially sandwiched between two rings of metal.
Each ring has one solder point.
Just solder your solder point back to the ring.
 
It gets more dangerous if you can't separate the diaphragm from the ring.
If the diaphragm gets hot, you risk damaging it.
If the diaphragm does not peel off with feather-touch ease, I would not try to peel it off by force, as you risk damaging it.
 
You want it to look LIKE THIS before you start soldering the broken metal back together.
If it does not do this naturally, don't force it.
 

 
If you can't separate the diaphragm like this, you need to work VERY quickly on the solder joint to prevent heat reaching the diaphragm.