Orthodynamic Roundup

[khbaur330162]

 
TL;DR: Isopropyl alcohol really helps dissolve black gunk that comes from stuff like ID1 pads.
 
Update:
 
Turns out that the smell gets stronger after being left out a few days. Still, the biggest thing is that the pads aren't sticky anymore, right?

I've torn these stock pads apart and given them a complete reupholstery. Your work is very, very interesting, I love your take on the refurbish. If the fabric underneath the stock Black "bitumen" stuff you mentioned that I'm guessing some of it would have dissolved in the isopropyl and is now living inside the foam. As you mention the smell wasn't too bad and now has gotten worse. If you're in for a slightly long, possibly aggravating to a hair-tearing-out point depending on your familiarity with ear pad fabrication, I'd be happy to try and guide you through a process of taking the pads apart to further soak the foam in isopropyl to try and clean out the gunk. You could also just soak the entire ear pads in isopropyl as you've done before and simply try to dilute the Black stuff further and further to a point that's tolerable (much easier process than what I'm imagining), but you'd of course use a lot more isopropyl in my mind.
 
 

I recently heard the PM3 and found it to be a complete joke, but then again it's just a vaguely pimped vintage russian ortho. So much not worth the pricetag ><

 Whaaaat? That's so disappointing, they look so bad ezz...
 
 
And, Andrewek, love your frankenphones. I can only imagine what the internals on that TDS-7/Devition monster look like, but I'm imagining they look pretty darn fine. Again, nice work, imo. Would not mind hearing those!
 
-edit- It appears I was not on the latest page of this thread... One day I'll learn to navigate the internets, I swear.

 

[BucketInABucket]

  I've torn these stock pads apart and given them a complete reupholstery. Your work is very, very interesting, I love your take on the refurbish. If the fabric underneath the stock Black "bitumen" stuff you mentioned that I'm guessing some of it would have dissolved in the isopropyl and is now living inside the foam. As you mention the smell wasn't too bad and now has gotten worse. If you're in for a slightly long, possibly aggravating to a hair-tearing-out point depending on your familiarity with ear pad fabrication, I'd be happy to try and guide you through a process of taking the pads apart to further soak the foam in isopropyl to try and clean out the gunk. You could also just soak the entire ear pads in isopropyl as you've done before and simply try to dilute the Black stuff further and further to a point that's tolerable (much easier process than what I'm imagining), but you'd of course use a lot more isopropyl in my mind.

Thanks for the offer, but I somehow klutzed my way through completely taking apart the pads and the fabric stuff was the only part of the pads I had soaked in the isopropyl. As you said, it was a long and frustrating process for sure, and the black stuff was getting everywhere! I was thinking about getting some memory foam and lambskin to fabricate my own pads but at some point I just kind of gave up on the refurbishment and stuck some HM5 pads on the ID1s. The smell was becoming unbearable but I loved the sound too much to just give up on them!

 

[MuZo2]

What amp are you using?

 

[BucketInABucket]

  What amp are you using?

Cavalli Audio Liquid Carbon! Check my signature 

 
Edit: I am thinking of getting a power amp for the ID1 though. Maybe once I get a pair of speakers, I can justify it...

 

[khbaur330162]

  Thanks for the offer, but I somehow klutzed my way through completely taking apart the pads and the fabric stuff was the only part of the pads I had soaked in the isopropyl. As you said, it was a long and frustrating process for sure, and the black stuff was getting everywhere! I was thinking about getting some memory foam and lambskin to fabricate my own pads but at some point I just kind of gave up on the refurbishment and stuck some HM5 pads on the ID1s. The smell was becoming unbearable but I loved the sound too much to just give up on them!

Oh, hell yes. I killed my pair of ID1's, ashamedly, but these look niiiice. I can imagine.

 

[BucketInABucket]

  Oh, hell yes. I killed my pair of ID1's, ashamedly, but these look niiiice. I can imagine.

Oh dear, I'm sorry to hear that. Worse feeling to kill a majestic old grandpa like that. Goodness knows I did that at least three times before I learnt how to properly take them apart while keeping them intact...
 
Speaking of which, any ideas on how to recable the ID1 while keeping the driver in good condition? The stock cable is horrible and there's some kind of propriety connector on the driver which I need to figure out how to work around.
 

Spoiler: Images

 

 

 

[MuZo2]

  Cavalli Audio Liquid Carbon! Check my signature 

 
Edit: I am thinking of getting a power amp for the ID1 though. Maybe once I get a pair of speakers, I can justify it...

I stayed away from them , I have read they need a speaker amp to sing. Was wondering how they sound from Cavalli Audio Liquid Carbon.

 

[khbaur330162]

Looks like you got a handle on it.

 

[PR4XXIS]

  Yessir. Same noticeable effects there, while adjusting headband strap, swiveling cups and hitting rears it all sounds like a dull thud instead of lighter sound, all over. Same sound on headband as what the sorbed cups sound like ...
Great findings glad you discovered that.
 
Get on replacing that strap!

Nick any clue what might be causing the clicking sound in my TDS 16s? My right driver appears to be loose or looser than the left one, how tight are these drivers supposed to be? Is clicking possibly caused by the extra distance between all the parts in the right part? I think it could be that one of those clips on the sides are the culprit but not sure due to my lack of experience.

 

[nick n]

PR4XXIS:
There should be no driver movement.
It is likely the glue or method they were attached has deteriorated over time and they are floppy in the baffle mounts now.
I know the foam deteriorated pretty bad which seems typical of things these age, though not always.
 
So no there ideally should not be any movement in the driver where it seats against the baffle.
 
I have pictures of the exact same larger models here.
 Notice I added 3 squares of pressed in Dynamat to keep them held to the baffles. I could have gone further and done the whole seam but didn't think it was necessary .
Before I did this they were also loose.
Same with the 2 sets of smaller "SMELA" models, those too had no glue on the drivers so were in need of some Dynamat securing.
 
Other than the hinge mechanism there behind the black fabric in cup rears, I can't see any other cause.
That hinge part seems well built and solid.
 
Here are some pics of the TDS-16 larger drivered "KIEV" model so people know what we are talking about.
Interesting bolted trace contacts on the diaphragm huh. ( on right side of driver there obviously )

 

 


 
^Dynamat in 3 spots holding drivers tight in place. Sorbothane of course all around.

 

[nick n]

  Looking at the recable that Nick is doing. Reminds me that I've got a bunch of orthos (and an AKG340) that all need a recable job.
Looking for a good source for replacement cables. Any suggestions out there?

I am at a loss for that . I suppose one could look at the ready-to go LUNASHOP things and use one of those. Seems to be both dual and single entries. Similar on ebay also. That tight braiding though, guess I could live with it.
Best thing might be to use some softer  or decently pliable RCA cables. Yamaha from what I recall used that type of thing in their HP-1's.
( Sure it may look different in the Yamaha cups but when you pull on that negative cover it slips right off. Turns out it is there to either disguise the shield twist, or prevent metal to metal contact.) Twist the copper outer shield braid and solder that to the ground. At least they are cheap ~ $3-4 shippped off ebay , have 2 channels ready to go and usually decent amount of copper.
 
Other than that making them seems like a real PITA, now I need to go find decent longer Skate laces to use for sheath on lower sections, especially if using more than the 4 wires construction.

 

[Hutnicks]

 
I am at a loss for that . I suppose one could look at the ready-to go LUNASHOP things and use one of those. Seems to be both dual and single entries. Similar on ebay also. That tight braiding though, guess I could live with it.
Best thing might be to use some softer  or decently pliable RCA cables. Yamaha from what I recall used that type of thing in their HP-1's.
( Sure it may look different in the Yamaha cups but when you pull on that negative cover it slips right off. Turns out it is there to either disguise the shield twist, or prevent metal to metal contact.) Twist the copper outer shield braid and solder that to the ground. At least they are cheap ~ $3-4 shippped off ebay , have 2 channels ready to go and usually decent amount of copper.
 
Other than that making them seems like a real PITA, now I need to go find decent longer Skate laces to use for sheath on lower sections, especially if using more than the 4 wires construction.

Ever considered just runnning the wire through plasti dip?
 
No idea what that might mean for capacitance or impedance though.

 

[nick n]

Or liquid electrical tape. Sort of like making candles from repeatedly dipping wicks. Hmmmm.
The fumes are good for increasing perception I hear.

 

[PR4XXIS]

Exactly what mine look like inside. This is great info, because the next time I take em apart I will definitely have to beef them up so that there is no movement. I thought it was a bit odd since the other driver was very solid. Will post pics as soon as I can. Now where can one get sorbothane on the cheap?

 

[Hutnicks]

  Or liquid electrical tape. Sort of like making candles from repeatedly dipping wicks. Hmmmm.
The fumes are good for increasing perception I hear.

The liquid tape dries too hard for my liking. Plasti is about the same consistancy as most wire insulators.