Orthodynamic Roundup

[waynes world]

Not neoprene. Leather methinks.

 

[Hutnicks]

  Not neoprene. Leather methinks.

Ah, the pic does not do it justice then
 
Awesome little phones though.

 

[BucketInABucket]

As promised Nick, I finally got around to fixing the phase of the drivers (damn T10 diaphragms) so here it is!
 
My bag of damping unfortunately got thrown away so I wasn't able to apply any further damping schemes to this can so impressions are based on nothing else but sorb on the back of the baffle.
 
The wood was sourced from an old fabric factory where strands of wool or something were wound around large wood rollers. I chose it because it smelt similar to sapele - very scientific, I know - and should be relatively dry from years of being in use so it shouldn't undergo any nasty warping or the like. Rough dimensions of the cups are ~38mm outer length, ~30mm depth, ~10mm outer diameter and ~65mm inner diameter. 
 
Headband was from an old fleabay headphone. Don't even remember what model it was but it works and it's fairly comfy so hey. Pads are HM5 memory foam pleathers. Cheap, cheerful, extremely comfortable and works with so many headphones I won't even come close to listing them all!
 
The drivers as mentioned before are T10 diaphragms and they are sandwiched between T20v2 magnets.  As they're much stronger than the stock T10 magnets, this causes them to...well...have a ton of bass which fortunately was reduced by the sorb to a manageable although still relatively large quantity. At least it's good bass which I'm happy with.
 
The wood gives it a really romantic quality to the sound with excellent timbre which makes it great for anything acoustic along with electronic tracks. Trebles seems to be decent too and considering it's a ported closed-back, the sound stage is also quite nice and clear. It's most definitely warm and will have to be measured and properly damped at some later stage as I do hear some unevenness to the sound but it's nothing that particularly bothers me so I might not even bother. Depends on how the sound grows on me really.
 
Definitely an all-round improvement to the stock T20v2 shell though, that's for sure! Do need a name for this thing though so any suggestions are very welcome.
 

Spoiler: Glamour pics!

 

 

 

 

[nick n]

waynesworld
 
Those are likely maxxed out in that mod there given the stock shell and all. Far as we can tell.
The recable definitely helped, plus the rest.
Hope you decide to use them a bit more in your large collection.
Any issues pop up throw a rock through my window,.
 
 
Hutnicks
 
That is the same leather as you have there *I think* on waynesworld's headband strap.
Traced out the flattened stock one=rather difficult to do given it was hard-as-a-rock vinyl.
But I doubled it up, probably no need to.
Next time I would avoid the fuss.
Bonded 2 strips of leather and where the  band attaches to the sliders it had to be left as a single layer only or the screws would not cinch down without cracking the slider adjusters.
 
 

 
 
 
BUCKETINABUCKET:
 
How did you figure out it had a phase issue to begin with that has always confused the heck out of me.
One direction sounds crappier?
Was the wiring goofy?
 
Seems you need an emergency modding med- kit.
 
GREQ
 
I really can't recall if I removed the stock vent felt. Did I let it fly free or add in a ring of AC?

One thing I do know is that I scraped away all the Newplast in favour of using Dynamat to bond the drivers to the baffles.

 

[BucketInABucket]

   
How did you figure out it had a phase issue to begin with that has always confused the heck out of me.
One direction sounds crappier?
Was the wiring goofy?
 
Seems you need an emergency modding med- kit.

Something sounded off when I first listened to them which became even more apparent when I compared them to other cans so I used this to confirm the issue. Probably some goofed-up wiring job now that I think about it but I swapped the cable anyways and it worked off the bat so I'm happy.
 
Thanks to you I should get that kit soon 

 

 

[nick n]

WOW all this time and asking around a couple of us were wondering how to tell the easy way. This is awesome thanks for that link! SAVED.
 Curious how you carved out the center of those wooden cups.
Use a lathe?
Still need get the bowl kit for one here. Too many projects.
 And real life isn't one of them

 

[Hutnicks]

Ah the thickness threw me off. The only issue with the single thickness is it tends to twist and fold as you slide it over your hair. Still light years better than the ninja death edge stock band.

 

[fleasbaby]

As promised Nick, I finally got around to fixing the phase of the drivers (damn T10 diaphragms) so here it is!

My bag of damping unfortunately got thrown away so I wasn't able to apply any further damping schemes to this can so impressions are based on nothing else but sorb on the back of the baffle.

The wood was sourced from an old fabric factory where strands of wool or something were wound around large wood rollers. I chose it because it smelt similar to sapele - very scientific, I know - and should be relatively dry from years of being in use so it shouldn't undergo any nasty warping or the like. Rough dimensions of the cups are ~38mm outer length, ~30mm depth, ~10mm outer diameter and ~65mm inner diameter. 

Headband was from an old fleabay headphone. Don't even remember what model it was but it works and it's fairly comfy so hey. Pads are HM5 memory foam pleathers. Cheap, cheerful, extremely comfortable and works with so many headphones I won't even come close to listing them all!

The drivers as mentioned before are T10 diaphragms and they are sandwiched between T20v2 magnets.  As they're much stronger than the stock T10 magnets, this causes them to...well...have a ton of bass which fortunately was reduced by the sorb to a manageable although still relatively large quantity. At least it's good bass which I'm happy with.

The wood gives it a really romantic quality to the sound with excellent timbre which makes it great for anything acoustic along with electronic tracks. Trebles seems to be decent too and considering it's a ported closed-back, the sound stage is also quite nice and clear. It's most definitely warm and will have to be measured and properly damped at some later stage as I do hear some unevenness to the sound but it's nothing that particularly bothers me so I might not even bother. Depends on how the sound grows on me really.

Definitely an all-round improvement to the stock T20v2 shell though, that's for sure! Do need a name for this thing though so any suggestions are very welcome.

Spoiler: Glamour pics!

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Nicely done. My first T50rp Woody had a similar depth...purely by accident...I discovered later this actually contributed to soundstage a good amount. Had to sacrifice some of it though as the cups were just too big...

 

[leeperry]

nicely done indeed, reminds me of: http://s8.photobucket.com/user/khabur330162/media/P1010790.jpg.html
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/203802/i-didnt-know-what-prat-was-till-the-cd3000s/30#post_2451476

 

[PR4XXIS]

Will keep you all posted. Going to be doing more or less the same thing to my TDS-15 shortly. Definitely do want to try the sorbothane method, it seems to give great results. In the mean I have some non-audio projects to wrap up!

 

[nick n]

The drivers as mentioned before are T10 diaphragms and they are sandwiched between T20v2 magnets.  As they're much stronger than the stock T10 magnets, this causes them to...well...have a ton of bass which fortunately was reduced by the sorb to a manageable although still relatively large quantity. At least it's good bass which I'm happy with.
 

 Have you thought about using plugs of felt in the rear holes to drop bass levels out a bit. Obviously if you are adding AC or something in the rears one or two layers that will do that at the same time .
 Just a random thought that came to me.

 

[nick n]

Just saw a great post. Check this updated mod!
Full details here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/420490/show-us-your-vintage-headphones/1620#post_12386467
 

 

[PR4XXIS]

That deserves some kind of resto-mod award for the most beautiful creation.

 

[khbaur330162]

  As promised Nick, I finally got around to fixing the phase of the drivers (damn T10 diaphragms) so here it is!
 
My bag of damping unfortunately got thrown away so I wasn't able to apply any further damping schemes to this can so impressions are based on nothing else but sorb on the back of the baffle.
 
The wood was sourced from an old fabric factory where strands of wool or something were wound around large wood rollers. I chose it because it smelt similar to sapele - very scientific, I know - and should be relatively dry from years of being in use so it shouldn't undergo any nasty warping or the like. Rough dimensions of the cups are ~38mm outer length, ~30mm depth, ~10mm outer diameter and ~65mm inner diameter. 
 
Headband was from an old fleabay headphone. Don't even remember what model it was but it works and it's fairly comfy so hey. Pads are HM5 memory foam pleathers. Cheap, cheerful, extremely comfortable and works with so many headphones I won't even come close to listing them all!
 
The drivers as mentioned before are T10 diaphragms and they are sandwiched between T20v2 magnets.  As they're much stronger than the stock T10 magnets, this causes them to...well...have a ton of bass which fortunately was reduced by the sorb to a manageable although still relatively large quantity. At least it's good bass which I'm happy with.
 
The wood gives it a really romantic quality to the sound with excellent timbre which makes it great for anything acoustic along with electronic tracks. Trebles seems to be decent too and considering it's a ported closed-back, the sound stage is also quite nice and clear. It's most definitely warm and will have to be measured and properly damped at some later stage as I do hear some unevenness to the sound but it's nothing that particularly bothers me so I might not even bother. Depends on how the sound grows on me really.
 
Definitely an all-round improvement to the stock T20v2 shell though, that's for sure! Do need a name for this thing though so any suggestions are very welcome.
 

Spoiler: Glamour pics!

 

 

 

Awesome. Really cool work. And I never knew that about the difference in magnet strength between the T10's and T20's.
 

  nicely done indeed, reminds me of: http://s8.photobucket.com/user/khabur330162/media/P1010790.jpg.html
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/203802/i-didnt-know-what-prat-was-till-the-cd3000s/30#post_2451476

Lol! Somebody remembers that far back?! I sure as heck didn't. I miss those CD3k's, I'm not gonna lie. Nice set of cans, imo, although I got rid of them because a pair of MDR-CD380's with SFI tweeters in 'em sounded so freaking good to me. At least I got a spiffy profile picture (and fond memories) out of them. Man, whatever happened to Headphile and Darth Beyers? Anyways, thanks for the laugh, man, appreciated. Btw, I still got some of your tunes (Francois De Roubaix) on my A&K AK100. Still good stuff worth visiting!

 

[BucketInABucket]

  Awesome. Really cool work. And I never knew that about the difference in magnet strength between the T10's and T20's.
 
Lol! Somebody remembers that far back?! I sure as heck didn't. I miss those CD3k's, I'm not gonna lie. Nice set of cans, imo, although I got rid of them because a pair of MDR-CD380's with SFI tweeters in 'em sounded so freaking good to me. At least I got a spiffy profile picture (and fond memories) out of them. Man, whatever happened to Headphile and Darth Beyers? Anyways, thanks for the laugh, man, appreciated. Btw, I still got some of your tunes (Francois De Roubaix) on my A&K AK100. Still good stuff worth visiting!

FInished them up! Replaced the flat pads with angled pads, applied a nitrocellulose coat on the wood and epoxied a penny washer around the bass port to protect the hole from chipping.

Spoiler: More Glamour Pics