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Gave the HOKs another go from the speaker outs - the drivers started heating up quite noticeably and actually got to sounding progressively worse as I let them play. The volume wasn't even close to loud.
They sound fine (HOK fine) now from the headphone out and don't heat up, so not sure what was going on there.
In happier news, I took out all dampening from the HOK cups, and the back disc as well, and instead put in a very slim disc of cotton to break up some waves that might bounce off the non-vented middle part of the cup. I figured since the HOK (v. 1) has no bass to dampen and open-backed cups too, why put in any dampening. The sound is decent and somewhat enjoyable. Soundstage is pretty decent as well.
YAY you went open back!
Honestly I don't know how you managed to keep opening them up and not severely damaging the things. I am scared to open mine again, but probably should to change up the damping scheme ( these are V1 and opened also ) and change the type of putty I used. I think the tabs are half shot on these so I rely on the putty to hold it tightish and next time a ring of black electrical tape for cup sealing at the baffle joint.
What sort of bass drop did you notice probably minor I'm guessing
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These things certainly have a nice sound, even if it's not ideal it is still very enjoyable I definitely agree.
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So this is a potential project I'm planning... but I'm a bit afraid to move forward.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/9195#post_8677192
What do you guys think?
I really think you should try this.
It is always possible .
I wonder though if you used an extension and cut carefully into that layer instead where the driver slips out of the sides just barely. You could then also have space for the plug jack maybe and also leave the stock parts for the shell intact. If you did this then you can also sand off and contour the parts where the driver sticks out to the edges of the shell and paint them white .
As far as a solution one would be to somehow extend the baffle up by 3,4 or 5 mm higher. How you go about this is going to be the hard part.
By the way it actually works.
I successfully increased spacing on the Pro30's to fit additional modding junk inside, also did the same with 2 Pioneer Loop projects.
In the Pro30's cut 2 rings of white dense neoprene so it acted like an extension and just happens it may also be a vibration controller.
For the Loops I stacked 3 rings of some black rubber gasket material on each cup.
Trouble is with yours it looks like there may not be enough of a lip to seat them in without them slipping off it as you tighten down the screws.
Of course you will have to locate extra length screws I may also be able to help you there.
Possibly best to to make extensions with harder and gluable ( easily cut ) white styrene sheeting it will hold a shape and can be glued together to increase height. Modellers do some amazing stuff with it, just so happens i have all of the above you can PM me for details about free samples enough to try out and make this work I think.
Either that or i may be able to track down some thicker aluminum sheeting that will take a fair bit of time though to trim down and get to shape. But that's another option.
The white neoprene ( which may not seat ) , the White styrene sheets, or the silver aluminum will also all match the colour scheme.
PM ME!
