Sep 6, 2012 at 8:43 PM Post #9,196 of 11,346
Quote:
if you've read all these posts (entire thread), then you should be aware of the incremental mods & measurements thread - see graph #59 & compare against lcd-2 measurements further down:   http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements.  btw, no one has suggested that mere burn-in will bring t50rp to sonic quality of lcd-2.
 
to answer your questions (via my own experience with 2 sets of t50rp):
1. not much, really
2. 840 pads provide greater depth & internal width - you can increase the depth by stuffing rolled cotton at the 'back' of the earpad - you'll probably gain an extra 1/4" to 1/2" all around (width, height, depth).
3. when new, the cable is very firmly attached to the jack - first rotate it to the unlocked position (cable end points to the back of the cup, not downwards), then pull straight out firmly. 
 
next, use a bit of deoxit (or other electronics contact cleaner) and apply to the trs 3.5mm plug.  insert, rotate, remove, insert, rotate, remove ... several times so that the jack contacts & plug contacts are thoroughly cleaned.  this should ameliorate the intermittent dropout situation.

 
 
 
Thanks, geetarman49--helpful. Yes, I am aware of the incremental mods but skeptical of how what I'm hearing now can be brought up to the level of what I've been reading about the t50, superlatives and all. I mean, generally you need to start from a promising base, and what I'm hearing right now just isn't promising me enough. I guess that was really my question.
 
I'd be interested in hearing other first impressions. MIne don't seem to tally with most of those I've read, which have been generally of the "yeah, okay, not bad, fair enough" variety. Mine was of the "Eek!" variety. 
 
Sep 6, 2012 at 8:49 PM Post #9,197 of 11,346
Hello Everyone.
 
I am very new to audio and such but I consider myself an audiophile becuase of the extensive research I do regarding my decisions in audio. Im looking into buying new headphones, and I go throught them very quickly becuase of wire shorts. To prevent this, I am looking for a pair of headphones under 100 dollars, that have a removable cable feature and have a good bass output. I listen to primarily Dubstep and Electro-Techno, so I need some headphones with a good Blast oriented bass instead of a punch oriented bass. They need to be less than 100 USD and have a removable cord feature. If anyone could point me towards some that would be sooooooo awesome.
 
 
Sep 6, 2012 at 8:53 PM Post #9,198 of 11,346
wrong thread, sir. please click the link below.
 
www.head-fi.org/t/529144/recommendations-thread-i-e-dont-start-a-new-thread-ask-for-advice-here-please-read-op
 
thanks!
 
Sep 6, 2012 at 10:01 PM Post #9,199 of 11,346
Nice one Armaegis! I never thought of putting T50RP drivers into those (though was looking into it for SFI's... but cheapest used one around is $120). Hows the depth look? That might be a tad bit more troubling. Unless you manage to make a spacer to increase the depth; definitely worth looking into!
 
 
And, well, I haven't been working very much on my mods lately; waiting on that ebay desoldering pump. But one modding material that I think may be worth trying out are earplugs. Super cheap on Ebay, just cut them into strips of 4 and use either side. The back side seems to have more drastic effect. My current earplug mod isn't anywhere sounding like a flat frequency but is quite fun to listen to. Once I get to start working on that again hopefully I will be able to bring news on whether it is a worthwhile $3 invested or not.
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 12:29 AM Post #9,200 of 11,346
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So... do you guys think I should go for it? To even start down this path requires irreversible changes to both headphones. At least with my early Phiaton transplant it could be undone, and my Sextett transplant (unfinished) was with bare SFI drivers and an empty Sextett shell. This potential project is hacking apart two perfectly good headphones... 
confused_face_2.gif

Do you like the sound of the V-Modas? Personally, I'd be hard pressed to hack apart a functional set of headphones that are generally well liked. And what do you hope to gain by transplanting the T50RP drivers into Crossfade cups? (They're Crossfades, aren't they?)
 
BTW, I've always meant to ask you about the spray-on sound dampener you used. Did the initial flush fade? I've found auto dampener at Princess Auto but I haven't had the time, courage or inspiration to give it a shot. 
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 1:02 AM Post #9,201 of 11,346
Quote:
Nice one Armaegis! I never thought of putting T50RP drivers into those (though was looking into it for SFI's... but cheapest used one around is $120). Hows the depth look? That might be a tad bit more troubling. Unless you manage to make a spacer to increase the depth; definitely worth looking into!
 
 

 
SFIs are getting pretty hard to find these days. If I had any left, I'd probably use those instead. I actually had a couple other vintage orthos that I could have scavenged for parts, but I recently traded them all away. 
 
 
Quote:
Do you like the sound of the V-Modas? Personally, I'd be hard pressed to hack apart a functional set of headphones that are generally well liked. And what do you hope to gain by transplanting the T50RP drivers into Crossfade cups? (They're Crossfades, aren't they?)
 
BTW, I've always meant to ask you about the spray-on sound dampener you used. Did the initial flush fade? I've found auto dampener at Princess Auto but I haven't had the time, courage or inspiration to give it a shot. 

 
The Crossfade LP's are ok. Bassy-ish (not as much as I was expecting), not as refined as the M80, though more comfortable since I prefer over-ear rather than on-ear. The Crossfades get mixed reviews here, though the LP2's fare better. 
 
What do I hope to gain? Nothing other than to say I did it 
tongue.gif
 Plus the venting is similar and I'd like to have a portable ortho. I would have preferred a less blingy shell, but I got this used so I'm working with what I've got. 
 
The "sound dampener" I use is really just roofing repair spray. Nothing more than aerosol rubber. I think it makes a *tiny* difference, but it's so little it could very well be placebo. For the effort required and the mess it makes, I honestly wouldn't recommend it. Where I have found it useful for though is in sealing surfaces that otherwise aren't air tight. But again, this stuff is messy and a pain to work with. If you can find a paint-on version instead, go with that. 
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 4:21 AM Post #9,202 of 11,346
Quote:
 
 
 
Thanks, geetarman49--helpful. Yes, I am aware of the incremental mods but skeptical of how what I'm hearing now can be brought up to the level of what I've been reading about the t50, superlatives and all. I mean, generally you need to start from a promising base, and what I'm hearing right now just isn't promising me enough. I guess that was really my question.
 
I'd be interested in hearing other first impressions. MIne don't seem to tally with most of those I've read, which have been generally of the "yeah, okay, not bad, fair enough" variety. Mine was of the "Eek!" variety. 


of the two pairs of t50rp that i have, the first was godawful - no bass, no highs, veiled mids (maybe veiled is not quite correct ... distant mids); the 2nd was, & still is, fairly decent with respect to bass and impact, mids fairly nice and smooth with gradual roll-off of hi-freq.   i modded the first pair using the bmf dbv #1 without 'logs'.  the results were quite astounding.  i have not yet modded the 2nd phone, but soon.   NOTE: i used the exact same materials (same brands) as described in the thread. i do not know what the results would be using similar but different branded materials.
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 10:09 AM Post #9,204 of 11,346
Sep 7, 2012 at 12:28 PM Post #9,205 of 11,346
Quote:
 
 
Hmmm. I may have to get a translation on that.


go to the incremental mods thread:  read the 1st post by bmf (bluemonkeyflyer) in its entirety.  dbv #1 is well documented; so is the use of paxmate 'logs' - i did not use paxmate logs in my first build.  
 
(note that i'm on my 2nd build of these & i will be using the logs this time.)
 
Sep 9, 2012 at 10:25 PM Post #9,210 of 11,346
Can someone tell me how to remove the white felt off the back of the driver? Thanks


Small amount of acetone on Q-tip will loosen the glue. Irreversible if you can't remove it in one piece. Removing it did not help anything for me and created damping problems I've still not solved.
 

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