[thelostMIDrange]

regarding arty mcgees angled plastic adapter. Keep in mind that is changing two variable in one mod so any sound difference would be hard to decipher in terms of what to attribute it to. either the plastic ring or the angle......because that mounting method is indeed a significant variable. Any change there is very hearable ime.....but at least it allows one to hear part of what an angled driver does to the sound,,,,arty what did you hear after the mod?
 
 
regarding the new printer cups, yes they do appear to be plastic and moderatley 'dead'. they are not thick or massive however so they are not as dead as some heavy wood cups made by the famous turner. But the printer cups do seem to be using the inert material philosophy. But I just cant see the cup mattering nearly as much once the driver is mounted in foam. Doing so would seem to pretty much isolate the driver from all else and hence, removing what its attached to as a adjacent and interacting variable
 
 
 
 
here's what I've got so far towards implementing the 'cracked bell' idea. The explicit design idea is working under the assumption that the small vibrations of the driver need a light delicate resonant cup to move the vibrations away from the driver, but that the cup should not resonate in any particular way or node/frequency. Hence the idea to put a piece of rubber/foam in the cup to break up any tendency for this. Obviously this is different than a non resonant cup. Grado RS works on the resonant principle and relies on the finish treatment to do the work of altering the resonance of the cup. The cracked bell idea just adds a third variable to allow control over this. The other two being the finish as mentioned and the third being the choice of wood, it's shape and overall mass, which I am combining into one variable. But the resonant approach generally, is using the cup for an essential part of the design and making it work for the driver instead of trying to take it out of the equation entirely and making it inert/ non resonant
 
 
 

 
 
 

 

[Arty McGhee]

ok
not sure this really belongs here as its no longer a magnum although i do use the c6 cup design it is by no means an attempt to improve on or compete with rhydon in any way , i have no intention on selling or distributing these cups without permission, the spacers and mdr-7506 cup holders, i will put up on thingverse if anyone's interested, i will continue to work on the spacer for wooden cups and will send some test samples out to see if there's an effect on the sound.
 
so 
 
i have been amazed by the cups from shapeways and the v6 drivers, the sound has made them by daily driver
that i take to work and listen to ever day mindblowing to the point of going out and purchasing a 3d printer
i've been a pink driver/woodie guy for years now, so the challenge has been to use my printrbot play 
($399.00 people go out and buy one now!) it doesn't have the quality of the shapeways stuff, but it gives precise
repeatable results quickly, ie once you get what you want you can send the files to a shapeways for quality
its called rapid prototyping, i'm writing a book here sorry , so here's my attempt at 3d printing a useful item thats not a keychain or a bottle opener (or a skull it prints awesome skulls)
 
so i put a sennheiser px100-ii driver in a c6 cup with a spacer i made in tinkercad, it sounded ok but not great
good basses and trebles but recessed midranges, i put some masking tape over the end like a grado button and that seemed the mids forward, so back to tinkercad to fill in one of the hexagons on the cup, next is the mdr7506 headband, they don't fit the c6 cup very well, so i found the cup holder art model on thingverse and after much modification i got it to fit pretty well, i also added a hole for a removable cable, the final results sound great, better vocals more forward mids, with lows and highs preserved and overall similar to the senngrado many of us love, not reall a senngrado more of a magsenngrado, i'm writing a book i know, sorry, here goes as they say pictures or it didn't happen.
 

 

 

 

 

 

[fleasbaby]

  regarding arty mcgees angled plastic adapter. Keep in mind that is changing two variable in one mod so any sound difference would be hard to decipher in terms of what to attribute it to. either the plastic ring or the angle......because that mounting method is indeed a significant variable. Any change there is very hearable ime.....but at least it allows one to hear part of what an angled driver does to the sound,,,,arty what did you hear after the mod?
 
 
regarding the new printer cups, yes they do appear to be plastic and moderatley 'dead'. they are not thick or massive however so they are not as dead as some heavy wood cups made by the famous turner. But the printer cups do seem to be using the inert material philosophy. But I just cant see the cup mattering nearly as much once the driver is mounted in foam. Doing so would seem to pretty much isolate the driver from all else and hence, removing what its attached to as a adjacent and interacting variable
 
here's what I've got so far towards implementing the 'cracked bell' idea. The explicit design idea is working under the assumption that the small vibrations of the driver need a light delicate resonant cup to move the vibrations away from the driver, but that the cup should not resonate in any particular way or node/frequency. Hence the idea to put a piece of rubber/foam in the cup to break up any tendency for this. Obviously this is different than a non resonant cup. Grado RS works on the resonant principle and relies on the finish treatment to do the work of altering the resonance of the cup. The cracked bell idea just adds a third variable to allow control over this. The other two being the finish as mentioned and the third being the choice of wood, it's shape and overall mass, which I am combining into one variable. But the resonant approach generally, is using the cup for an essential part of the design and making it work for the driver instead of trying to take it out of the equation entirely and making it inert/ non resonant
 

 
Fascinating idea. Where did you source the foam by the way?
 

  ok
not sure this really belongs here as its no longer a magnum although i do use the c6 cup design it is by no means an attempt to improve on or compete with rhydon in any way , i have no intention on selling or distributing these cups without permission, the spacers and mdr-7506 cup holders, i will put up on thingverse if anyone's interested, i will continue to work on the spacer for wooden cups and will send some test samples out to see if there's an effect on the sound.
 
so 
 
i have been amazed by the cups from shapeways and the v6 drivers, the sound has made them by daily driver
that i take to work and listen to ever day mindblowing to the point of going out and purchasing a 3d printer
i've been a pink driver/woodie guy for years now, so the challenge has been to use my printrbot play 
($399.00 people go out and buy one now!) it doesn't have the quality of the shapeways stuff, but it gives precise
repeatable results quickly, ie once you get what you want you can send the files to a shapeways for quality
its called rapid prototyping, i'm writing a book here sorry , so here's my attempt at 3d printing a useful item thats not a keychain or a bottle opener (or a skull it prints awesome skulls)
 
so i put a sennheiser px100-ii driver in a c6 cup with a spacer i made in tinkercad, it sounded ok but not great
good basses and trebles but recessed midranges, i put some masking tape over the end like a grado button and that seemed the mids forward, so back to tinkercad to fill in one of the hexagons on the cup, next is the mdr7506 headband, they don't fit the c6 cup very well, so i found the cup holder art model on thingverse and after much modification i got it to fit pretty well, i also added a hole for a removable cable, the final results sound great, better vocals more forward mids, with lows and highs preserved and overall similar to the senngrado many of us love, not reall a senngrado more of a magsenngrado, i'm writing a book i know, sorry, here goes as they say pictures or it didn't happen.

 
Brilliant work! I guess this would go in the SennGrado thread, but who cares. Its fantastic to see experimentation like this.

 

[jaywillin]

well, after some trepidation, i even thought about selling my parts, i finally sat down and put the parts together and i'm soooooooooo glad i didn't sell  
 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 
not as "finished" as i would like, the foam was a pain, but i made it work, the cable isn't as flexible as i like, and i'd like a different headband at some point, but seeing as this is my first effort, 
i feel pretty good about it.
oh, and the sound :

 

[fleasbaby]

  well, after some trepidation, i even thought about selling my parts, i finally sat down and put the parts together and i'm soooooooooo glad i didn't sell  
 
not as "finished" as i would like, the foam was a pain, but i made it work, the cable isn't as flexible as i like, and i'd like a different headband at some point, but seeing as this is my first effort, 
i feel pretty good about it.
oh, and the sound :

 
Yeah! Congratulations Jay!

 

[jaywillin]

   
Yeah! Congratulations Jay!

thanks man, it wasn't as hard as i thought it was going to be, i will say, before i solder anything else, i will get some helping hands, with the magnifying glass 

 

[fleasbaby]

  thanks man, it wasn't as hard as i thought it was going to be, i will say, before i solder anything else, i will get some helping hands, with the magnifying glass 

Oh yes...I usually don't use those, but its a pain in the arse. I always swear I will get them out next time...

 

[jaywillin]

 
Oh yes...I usually don't use those, but its a pain in the arse. I always swear I will get them out next time...

so, how do you hold the wires on the drivers to solder them ?

 

[fleasbaby]

  so, how do you hold the wires on the drivers to solder them ?

 
The driver goes face-down on the table, I use the soldering iron and soldering wire to put solder on the solder pads. I then tin the wires generously. After that, I hold the tinned wire to the solder pad with solder already on it, and touch it with the soldering iron. Bob's your uncle.

 

[jaywillin]

   
The driver goes face-down on the table, I use the soldering iron and soldering wire to put solder on the solder pads. I then tin the wires generously. After that, I hold the tinned wire to the solder pad with solder already on it, and touch it with the soldering iron. Bob's your uncle.

damn, good idea
at first i was just trying to get the wire to lay right, its a little stiff, i'd get the first one done, then the second was a pita, i ending up making my own helping hand from a weighted down coat hanger, it got the job done

 

[fleasbaby]

  damn, good idea
at first i was just trying to get the wire to lay right, its a little stiff, i'd get the first one done, then the second was a pita, i ending up making my own helping hand from a weighted down coat hanger, it got the job done

Its works, but Ill be the first to admit my soldering skills are rudimentary...way to make it happen with the coathanger

 

[jaywillin]

 
Its works, but Ill be the first to admit my soldering skills are rudimentary...way to make it happen with the coathanger

my soldering would have to get way better to make it up to rudimentary 

 

[sling5s]

Really want to try a pair of V6. Anyone want to sell a pair of V6 fully made?

 

[jaywillin]

Really want to try a pair of V6. Anyone want to sell a pair of V6 fully made?

they really are very good, it surprised me, good enough that i might sell a one or two of the other headphones i have, good luck !

 

[sling5s]

  they really are very good, it surprised me, good enough that i might sell a one or two of the other headphones i have, good luck !

Just purchased one from sale forum. 

So how do these compare to the Grado GH1 or Grado RS2e?