[fleasbaby]

  Would an angled distancer accomplish the same result? Something like this
 
http://www.shapeways.com/product/4GK2SMFDD/spacer-for-alessandro-ms-1000-modification-ms-1?li=shop-results&optionId=43198577&rc=SearchResults
 
only asymmetrically angled, using the same pads etc that we do now?

It might...but using that would set the whole cup at an angle on the side of your head, not just the driver.

 

[thelostMIDrange]

   
@thelostMIDrange Explorations continue...
 
I did not try the angled cup unfortunately. Was talking to someone yesterday though, and we were discussing the use of a jam chuck on the lathe, with an angled piece of wood behind it, to create cones with an angled flat plane across their surface. I have a few things I need to get done first, but I want to explore using this method to make an angled driver seat...this will probably happen in the new year.

I'm not quite following that description for cutting angled seating........ I recall setting a drill press table at the 5-10degree point and cutting it with a hole saw. Then it went back into the lathe to clear out the inner section. It wasn't too compicated, but the angle and depth of cut had to be just right to avoid blowing through the lip or not leaving enough material. I will take some pics or vid if I do it again. The sound difference was easily noticeable. I supsect it just changes the patterns of reflection as the sound enters the ear. This doesn't necessarily mean it will sound 'better', but it does provide a more straight shot for the sound to enter the canal. I believe those reflections caused by all the outer ear contours is what makes on and over ears less resolving headphones (compared to a decent iem).
 
 
here's an exhaustive look at lathe chucks. Mike's got many great alternative ideas for holding small pieces at various points of the process. Regarding headphone cups there are several good ideas in here. One in particular is a homeade jam chuck around the 32 min mark. One could rough out the outer diameter of a cup on a lathe, then move to the press, drill the angle recess on a drill press, and even clear out the inner diameter for the cup with a forstner bit, and then jam the cup onto the lathe to turn the final outer dimensions, end detail, lip detail, and then finally blow through the end for the end hole. Using both press and lathe allows for quick cup making and allows for the angled driver seat.
 
 

 

[7keys]

 
here's an exhaustive look at lathe chucks. Mike's got many great alternative ideas for holding small pieces at various points of the process. Regarding headphone cups there are several good ideas in here. One in particular is a homeade jam chuck around the 32 min mark. One could rough out the outer diameter of a cup on a lathe, then move to the press, drill the angle recess on a drill press, and even clear out the inner diameter for the cup with a forstner bit, and then jam the cup onto the lathe to turn the final outer dimensions, end detail, lip detail, and then finally blow through the end for the end hole. Using both press and lathe allows for quick cup making and allows for the angled driver seat.
 
 

Lots of great info........thanks!

 

[Arty McGhee]

angleing (is that a word) drivers can be done several ways
angling the drivers on my recently purchased he400i' s i did
by adapting the mr. speakers alpha pads for a better fit and more of an angel
now i just 3-d printed some spacers for using the c-6 cups for senngrados
i can probably make an angled spacer very easily to try it out
here's some photos still have to make a cable and put it all together
 

 

 

 

 

[fleasbaby]

 
I'm not quite following that description for cutting angled seating........ I recall setting a drill press table at the 5-10degree point and cutting it with a hole saw. Then it went back into the lathe to clear out the inner section. It wasn't too compicated, but the angle and depth of cut had to be just right to avoid blowing through the lip or not leaving enough material. I will take some pics or vid if I do it again. The sound difference was easily noticeable. I supsect it just changes the patterns of reflection as the sound enters the ear. This doesn't necessarily mean it will sound 'better', but it does provide a more straight shot for the sound to enter the canal. I believe those reflections caused by all the outer ear contours is what makes on and over ears less resolving headphones (compared to a decent iem).
 
 
here's an exhaustive look at lathe chucks. Mike's got many great alternative ideas for holding small pieces at various points of the process. Regarding headphone cups there are several good ideas in here. One in particular is a homeade jam chuck around the 32 min mark. One could rough out the outer diameter of a cup on a lathe, then move to the press, drill the angle recess on a drill press, and even clear out the inner diameter for the cup with a forstner bit, and then jam the cup onto the lathe to turn the final outer dimensions, end detail, lip detail, and then finally blow through the end for the end hole. Using both press and lathe allows for quick cup making and allows for the angled driver seat.
 
 

 
A fantastic resource it looks like. Listened to the first few minutes...definitely coming back to that.
 

  angleing (is that a word) drivers can be done several ways
angling the drivers on my recently purchased he400i' s i did
by adapting the mr. speakers alpha pads for a better fit and more of an angel
now i just 3-d printed some spacers for using the c-6 cups for senngrados
i can probably make an angled spacer very easily to try it out
here's some photos still have to make a cable and put it all together
 

 
Now there's an idea...would be interesting to hear a comparison between an angled-driver cup in 100% wood, and a wooden cup with a plastic spacer in there to achieve the same thing...you're getting pretty handy with that 3D printer thingy

 
Finished the cups for that second V6 build:
 

 
Did the assembly yesterday morning. Listening to them right now...
 

 
The cups are Black Limba for the body, and Rosewood for the outside face. The drivers are press-fit in a seating that has a banked pad lip around it (provides a little more mass around the driver, seems to sound better in my opinion). The cable is a simple Mogami affair by @PETEREK, single ended, terminated with a 1/8th Amphenol jack.
 
Was interesting to note the slight changes between this pair of drivers and the first pair I got. These ones didn't start out sounding boxy, and open up after a little use. They sounded ready to go straight away. They also came with solder on the pads, and the foam tape in the packaging. The first pair did not. Sound signature between the two, as far as I can tell by memory, is pretty much the same: It feels like a direct descendant of the V5 driver, aiming for better clarity, and extension on both ends of the spectrum than its predecessor...perhaps sacrificing a bit of soul along the way. Think about the difference between your local watering hole/drinking dive, and that nice spot you take your missus on date night because you don't want to have to give her your favorite seat and explain to her why nothing on the snack menu is cooked without the involvement of a microwave or a deep-fat fryer...@Rhydon's V6 are like a spot where the barman has a mustache, but he didn't start growing it in the seventies (he wasn't even born then) and women seem to actually like the damn thing.
 
This is rapidly turning into a rambling review full of weird imagery, so I should stop here and probably collect my thoughts later and publish them as one...

 

[7keys]

 

 
I'm not quite following that description for cutting angled seating........ I recall setting a drill press table at the 5-10degree point and cutting it with a hole saw. Then it went back into the lathe to clear out the inner section. It wasn't too compicated, but the angle and depth of cut had to be just right to avoid blowing through the lip or not leaving enough material. I will take some pics or vid if I do it again. The sound difference was easily noticeable. I supsect it just changes the patterns of reflection as the sound enters the ear. This doesn't necessarily mean it will sound 'better', but it does provide a more straight shot for the sound to enter the canal. I believe those reflections caused by all the outer ear contours is what makes on and over ears less resolving headphones (compared to a decent iem).
 
 
here's an exhaustive look at lathe chucks. Mike's got many great alternative ideas for holding small pieces at various points of the process. Regarding headphone cups there are several good ideas in here. One in particular is a homeade jam chuck around the 32 min mark. One could rough out the outer diameter of a cup on a lathe, then move to the press, drill the angle recess on a drill press, and even clear out the inner diameter for the cup with a forstner bit, and then jam the cup onto the lathe to turn the final outer dimensions, end detail, lip detail, and then finally blow through the end for the end hole. Using both press and lathe allows for quick cup making and allows for the angled driver seat.
 
 

 
A fantastic resource it looks like. Listened to the first few minutes...definitely coming back to that.
 

  angleing (is that a word) drivers can be done several ways
angling the drivers on my recently purchased he400i' s i did
by adapting the mr. speakers alpha pads for a better fit and more of an angel
now i just 3-d printed some spacers for using the c-6 cups for senngrados
i can probably make an angled spacer very easily to try it out
here's some photos still have to make a cable and put it all together
 

 
Now there's an idea...would be interesting to hear a comparison between an angled-driver cup in 100% wood, and a wooden cup with a plastic spacer in there to achieve the same thing...you're getting pretty handy with that 3D printer thingy

 
Finished the cups for that second V6 build:
 

 
Did the assembly yesterday morning. Listening to them right now...
 

 
The cups are Black Limba for the body, and Rosewood for the outside face. The drivers are press-fit in a seating that has a banked pad lip around it (provides a little more mass around the driver, seems to sound better in my opinion). The cable is a simple Mogami affair by @PETEREK, single ended, terminated with a 1/8th Amphenol jack.
 
Was interesting to note the slight changes between this pair of drivers and the first pair I got. These ones didn't start out sounding boxy, and open up after a little use. They sounded ready to go straight away. They also came with solder on the pads, and the foam tape in the packaging. The first pair did not. Sound signature between the two, as far as I can tell by memory, is pretty much the same: It feels like a direct descendant of the V5 driver, aiming for better clarity, and extension on both ends of the spectrum than its predecessor...perhaps sacrificing a bit of soul along the way. Think about the difference between your local watering hole/drinking dive, and that nice spot you take your missus on date night because you don't want to have to give her your favorite seat and explain to her why nothing on the snack menu is cooked without the involvement of a microwave or a deep-fat fryer...@Rhydon's V6 are like a spot where the barman has a mustache, but he didn't start growing it in the seventies (he wasn't even born then) and women seem to actually like the damn thing.
 
This is rapidly turning into a rambling review full of weird imagery, so I should stop here and probably collect my thoughts later and publish them as one...

 

[fleasbaby]

 

 
Bahahahaha...
 
"...clean, non-smoking, pet-free home..."

 

[7keys]

 

 

 
Bahahahaha...
 
"...clean, non-smoking, pet-free home..."

My bad!............................... After reading your post I thought for sure you must have been smoking something. Forgive me?

 

[7keys]

  angleing (is that a word) drivers can be done several ways
angling the drivers on my recently purchased he400i' s i did
by adapting the mr. speakers alpha pads for a better fit and more of an angel
now i just 3-d printed some spacers for using the c-6 cups for senngrados
i can probably make an angled spacer very easily to try it out
here's some photos still have to make a cable and put it all together
 

 

 

 

I really like your SennGrado adapters, do they fit snugly in the cup?

 

[fleasbaby]

  My bad!............................... After reading your post I thought for sure you must have been smoking something. Forgive me?

 
*chuckle* No offense taken at all....sadly my dear friend, this is what lucidity sounds like from me. You don't want to hear me when it's *ahem* enhanced.

 

[Arty McGhee]

*chuckle* No offense taken at all....sadly my dear friend, this is what lucidity sounds like from me. You don't want to hear me when it's *ahem* enhanced.

Man I don't do that stuff no more, made me fat and stupid.........

I really like your SennGrado adapters, do they fit snugly in the cup?

Thanks they fit nice and snug
I measured once with a $13.90 caliper I got off amazon
And model it in tinkercad (a free web app)
I'm amazed at the precision I'm getting
Working on a few other things I'll post when it's done
I'll also put the adaptor on thingverse for any one to download
I've already decided to everything I make will be Creative Commons

 

[7keys]

Thanks they fit nice and snug
I measured once with a $13.90 caliper I got off amazon
And model it in tinkercad (a free web app)
I'm amazed at the precision I'm getting
Working on a few other things I'll post when it's done
I'll also put the adaptor on thingverse for any one to download
I've already decided to everything I make will be Creative Commons

Now I imagine you're looking for people to test them out but are a little too shy to ask...................Just want to let you know I'm up for it. 

 

[fleasbaby]

Man I don't do that stuff no more, made me fat and stupid.........
Thanks they fit nice and snug
I measured once with a $13.90 caliper I got off amazon
And model it in tinkercad (a free web app)
I'm amazed at the precision I'm getting
Working on a few other things I'll post when it's done
I'll also put the adaptor on thingverse for any one to download
I've already decided to everything I make will be Creative Commons

 
LMAO...neither do I. I don't need the help quite frankly (as all of you can tell from my writing sometimes).
 
That Tinkercad site is freaking awesome...

 

[Arty McGhee]

  Now I imagine you're looking for people to test them out but are a little too shy to ask...................Just want to let you know I'm up for it. 

don't worry i'll share the love
this one fits the plastic cup
i want to make one a little looser for the wood cup
i'll send you some when they're done

   
LMAO...neither do I. I don't need the help quite frankly (as all of you can tell from my writing sometimes).
 
That Tinkercad site is freaking awesome...

tinkercad is fast and easy great for quick parts and editing existing stuff
but not good with precise round shapes tends to facet
i'm about 10 days into this 3-d world and starting to produce useful stuff
thingverse is amazing also found a cool case for my xduoo x2
everyone i work with wants iphone cases

 

[fleasbaby]

....so I am not sure how appropriate or good it is, but I wrote a review on the V6 driver:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/products/symphones-magnums/reviews/14832
 
It seemed like a good idea at the time @Rhydon.