Grado modders go Magnum
Nov 3, 2015 at 2:40 AM Post #3,586 of 4,994
apart from this  http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
does anyone have any other affordable cable suggestions? basically i have to stay at or under $40 (which i realize doesn't leave a lot of choices) ideally I would like a cable exactly like this except for only 3' instead of 6' and terminating in a 3.5mm plug. i messaged the seller asking if this was an option last friday though have not received a response so probably not.which is why before i go ahead and make this purchase i want to know if i have other similar options
 
Edit:I went ahead and ordered the 6' one,they were down to the last two,then i checked back 15 mins later and it said 'last one' and i was like 'oh no i am not getting left out' 
biggrin.gif
so its ordered
 
now i just need to order this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Adapter-Female-1-4-inch-6-3mm-to-Male-1-8-in-3-5mm-TRS-Mini-plug-/190844503184?hash=item2c6f380490:g:pfYAAOxyYBJSLrEl
 
Nov 3, 2015 at 8:58 AM Post #3,587 of 4,994
  apart from this  http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
does anyone have any other affordable cable suggestions? basically i have to stay at or under $40 (which i realize doesn't leave a lot of choices) ideally I would like a cable exactly like this except for only 3' instead of 6' and terminating in a 3.5mm plug. i messaged the seller asking if this was an option last friday though have not received a response so probably not.which is why before i go ahead and make this purchase i want to know if i have other similar options
 
Edit:I went ahead and ordered the 6' one,they were down to the last two,then i checked back 15 mins later and it said 'last one' and i was like 'oh no i am not getting left out' 
biggrin.gif
so its ordered
 
now i just need to order this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Adapter-Female-1-4-inch-6-3mm-to-Male-1-8-in-3-5mm-TRS-Mini-plug-/190844503184?hash=item2c6f380490:g:pfYAAOxyYBJSLrEl

 
Drop @PETEREK a message via his Etsy store:
 
https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheAudMod?ref=l2-shopheader-name
 
I have him do all of my cabling. Top notch work.
 
Nov 3, 2015 at 9:01 AM Post #3,588 of 4,994
  shapeways.com lists these materials:
 
Plastics
  1. Strong & Flexible Plastic
  2. Metallic Plastic
  3. Frosted Detail Plastic
  4. Acrylic Plastic
  5. Elasto Plastic

Full color
  1. Full Color Sandstone

Ceramics
  1. Porcelain Ceramics

 
I believe the Strong and Flexible Plastic is a nylon type material which would be very durable and likely very inert acoustically. As far as visual aesthetics, the Frosted Detail Plastic could be interesting, as does the Metallic Plastic, but not so sure about the durability.
It would be great to have something as durable and stable as say the frame of a Glock pistol.
 
A friend of mine is a jewelery designer, and she has a few pieces in stainless steel she had them make for her. Looks rather nice...

 
Nov 3, 2015 at 12:11 PM Post #3,589 of 4,994
   
Drop @PETEREK a message via his Etsy store:
 
https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheAudMod?ref=l2-shopheader-name
 
I have him do all of my cabling. Top notch work.

+1 for peterek, he's the man
 
 
  shapeways.com lists these materials:
 
Plastics
  1. Strong & Flexible Plastic
  2. Metallic Plastic
  3. Frosted Detail Plastic
  4. Acrylic Plastic
  5. Elasto Plastic

Full color
  1. Full Color Sandstone

Ceramics
  1. Porcelain Ceramics

 
any idea what they charge for metal as compare to plastic?
i'm planning on buying a 3-d printer at some point but i'm very confused at the current offerings and prices there are so many models and prices

 
Nov 3, 2015 at 5:15 PM Post #3,590 of 4,994
  Hi y'all,
 
I've been 'lurking' for a while, but this is my first post.
 
I went straight from a pair of SR60's into a custom build: a pair of Turbulent X drivers in a pair of Vibro Classic cups with a decent 8-core copper cable and L-cush pads. They've had a decent run-in, but not hundreds of hours. Unfortunately, whilst they do some things better than the SR60's, it isn't all great: they're sibilant and very light at the low end. It's worse than a lack of bass - the lack of bottom end robs them of all their depth. I'm listening to them using a Marantz HD-DAC1, but the their negative qualities were even more pronounced when using my other DAC, an Audiolab Q-DAC. They're not exactly "worse" than the SR60's, but the entry-level Grados definitely sound weightier and are not sibilant.
 
The only thing I can think of is my hasty build: the drivers are hot-glued into the cups, rather than holding out for some double-sided tape as per Vibro's builds. Consequently there's no seal between the inside and outside of the cups, air can move around the drivers.
 
I'm thinking of cutting my losses and buying a better off-the-peg set of cans. Before I do this, does anyone have any thoughts, ideas, suggestions or clues?
 
Alistair

 
This has now been resolved. Luckily I'd only used three small blobs of hot glue to install the drivers, so it turned out to be very easy to pry them out. There's now a thin layer of blu-tack around each driver holding them into the wooden cups.
 
Totally different cans now. I've got a lot of listening to do.
 
Nov 3, 2015 at 5:42 PM Post #3,591 of 4,994
 
  Hi y'all,
 
I've been 'lurking' for a while, but this is my first post.
 
I went straight from a pair of SR60's into a custom build: a pair of Turbulent X drivers in a pair of Vibro Classic cups with a decent 8-core copper cable and L-cush pads. They've had a decent run-in, but not hundreds of hours. Unfortunately, whilst they do some things better than the SR60's, it isn't all great: they're sibilant and very light at the low end. It's worse than a lack of bass - the lack of bottom end robs them of all their depth. I'm listening to them using a Marantz HD-DAC1, but the their negative qualities were even more pronounced when using my other DAC, an Audiolab Q-DAC. They're not exactly "worse" than the SR60's, but the entry-level Grados definitely sound weightier and are not sibilant.
 
The only thing I can think of is my hasty build: the drivers are hot-glued into the cups, rather than holding out for some double-sided tape as per Vibro's builds. Consequently there's no seal between the inside and outside of the cups, air can move around the drivers.
 
I'm thinking of cutting my losses and buying a better off-the-peg set of cans. Before I do this, does anyone have any thoughts, ideas, suggestions or clues?
 
Alistair

 
This has now been resolved. Luckily I'd only used three small blobs of hot glue to install the drivers, so it turned out to be very easy to pry them out. There's now a thin layer of blu-tack around each driver holding them into the wooden cups.
 
Totally different cans now. I've got a lot of listening to do.

Glad you got it all worked out.
 
Nov 3, 2015 at 6:19 PM Post #3,592 of 4,994
   
This has now been resolved. Luckily I'd only used three small blobs of hot glue to install the drivers, so it turned out to be very easy to pry them out. There's now a thin layer of blu-tack around each driver holding them into the wooden cups.
 
Totally different cans now. I've got a lot of listening to do.

 
Nice! Blu-tack eh? LOL...whatever works I suppose. My offer for foam stripping still stands. I've also heard of folks using silicon because you can have it all around the edge, but it comes off easily...
 
Nov 3, 2015 at 7:02 PM Post #3,594 of 4,994
  What type of foam do you use?


I buy it in rolls from these guys:
 
http://www.mcmaster.com
 
Its black, about 3/8ths wide, and an eighth thick I believe. Super-cheap, works beautifully if you want a foam fit. 
 
Nov 4, 2015 at 8:16 AM Post #3,595 of 4,994
Just a brief comparison I did yesterday between the V6 and some other headphones.

V6 vs SR325i: The V6 is better in every respect- it is fuller sounding, has more bass, and has a better soundstage while being just as detailed.

V6 vs Audioquest Nighthawk: I also compared it to the Audioquest Nighthawk. The Nighthawk is very different sounding but is far less resolving than the V6, has a narrower soundstage, and has kind of an odd frequency response that sounds uncomfortable on some songs. The Nighthawk does have more bass, though.

V6 vs Sennheiser Momentum 2.0: This Sennheiser is very underrated because it is a stylish portable headphone. The Sennheiser sounded nice but lacked some body, resolution, and soundstage width. The V6 has much more detail and openness but lacks the sub bass of the momentum. I could live with the Momentum 2.0 as a portable headphone but it lacks too much detail on anything but the most perfectly mastered tracks to use regularly at home. Also, the Momentum's bass could be considered loose to some.


A caveat: I used the Sunflower pads on the V6 which definitely changes the sound for the better imo.
 
Nov 4, 2015 at 8:54 AM Post #3,596 of 4,994
Just a brief comparison I did yesterday between the V6 and some other headphones.

V6 vs SR325i: The V6 is better in every respect- it is fuller sounding, has more bass, and has a better soundstage while being just as detailed.

V6 vs Audioquest Nighthawk: I also compared it to the Audioquest Nighthawk. The Nighthawk is very different sounding but is far less resolving than the V6, has a narrower soundstage, and has kind of an odd frequency response that sounds uncomfortable on some songs. The Nighthawk does have more bass, though.

V6 vs Sennheiser Momentum 2.0: This Sennheiser is very underrated because it is a stylish portable headphone. The Sennheiser sounded nice but lacked some body, resolution, and soundstage width. The V6 has much more detail and openness but lacks the sub bass of the momentum. I could live with the Momentum 2.0 as a portable headphone but it lacks too much detail on anything but the most perfectly mastered tracks to use regularly at home. Also, the Momentum's bass could be considered loose to some.


A caveat: I used the Sunflower pads on the V6 which definitely changes the sound for the better imo.

 
...just ordered some 414 pads...I have a pair on hand, but they are quarter-modded already. Usually I use the PX100ii pads under my L-Cush, but I know they are thinner. Want to hear what the fuss on the 414 is about :)
 
@joeq70 BTW, is that the 2.0 on-ear or over-ear? I've always toyed with the idea of trying a pair, but never gotten around to it...
 
Nov 4, 2015 at 9:04 AM Post #3,597 of 4,994
...just ordered some 414 pads...I have a pair on hand, but they are quarter-modded already. Usually I use the PX100ii pads under my L-Cush, but I know they are thinner. Want to hear what the fuss on the 414 is about :)

@joeq70
BTW, is that the 2.0 on-ear or over-ear? I've always toyed with the idea of trying a pair, but never gotten around to it...


That was the around ear version I listened to. Both wired and Bluetooth versions sounded great.
 
Nov 4, 2015 at 3:32 PM Post #3,598 of 4,994
okay i am such a noob in some ways (okay in lots of ways) lol but the seller i purchased the cable from on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT said that yes he can modify it for me (I wanted 4' length instead of 6' and a 1/8" plug instead of 1/4") and he asked 'Which 3.5mm connector would you like?" and I said i TRS which of course is tip ring sleeve,but i forgot to say i want it to be stereo,but that's my question are all TRS plugs stereo? also should  i have said mini jack after TRS or is that already implied since its a 3.5mm (1/8") plug? (i will be using this in my Sony Walkman most of the time which is why i wanted the smaller plug and not a 1/4", thanks in advance for any help/answers.
 
edit: actually it will be plugged into my ibasso d-zero mkii amp/dac most the time which is plugged into my walkman,but either way they both have 3.5mm inputs/jacks
 
Nov 4, 2015 at 3:38 PM Post #3,599 of 4,994
okay i am such a noob in some ways (okay in lots of ways) lol but the seller i purchased the cable from on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/121548401848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=420490833407&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT said that yes he can modify it for me (I wanted 4' length instead of 6' and a 1/8" plug instead of 1/4") and he asked 'Which 3.5mm connector would you like?" and I said i TRS which of course is tip ring sleeve,but i forgot to say i want it to be stereo,but that's my question are all TRS plugs stereo? also should  i have said mini jack after TRS or is that already implied since its a 3.5mm (1/8") plug? (i will be using this in my Sony Walkman most of the time which is why i wanted the smaller plug and not a 1/4", thanks in advance for any help/answers.

edit: actually it will be plugged into my ibasso d-zero mkii amp/dac most the time which is plugged into my walkman,but either way they both have 3.5mm inputs/jacks


He probably wanted to know if you wanted a REAN or an Amphenol jack. Yes, all TRS are stereo :).
 
Nov 4, 2015 at 3:44 PM Post #3,600 of 4,994
He probably wanted to know if you wanted a REAN or an Amphenol jack. Yes, all TRS are stereo
smily_headphones1.gif
.

what is the difference between REAN and Amphenol? as i say it will be plugged into my iBasso D-Zero MKII portable amp/dac sometimes or directly into one of my Sony Walkman DAPs otherwise and they all have 3.5mm inputs.i just wanted to be certain it was stereo so i can hear the channel separation on old Beatles albums recorded in stereo etc..
 
edit: i just noticed on his page for the 1/4" connectors which are what they come with usually it states edit 2: okay i think i know now, REAN in Neurtrik which is a brand and Amphenol is another brand/manufacturer .i'll get all this stuff down,still learning 
smile.gif

Canare Quad Mic cable with Amphenol black/gold 1/4" connector. Wrapped in soft nylon cable wrap. Made with Cardas solder and cable comes with the ends already tinned.
 

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