[xylin6]

  yeah.. i'd love to know this myself as well.
between turbulent and the cup vendor, i'm unsure as to whether either would be willing to assemble the whole deal.

I just emailed them here-> http://turbulentlabs.com/contact/#wpcf7-f690-p15-o1 to ask, and am awaiting a reply,if turbulent don't offer that service then i will purchase the drivers from symphones and buy a pair of cups from yew woodworks as they do provide that service with the purchase of any cup..though i prefer the turbulent cups (and they are less expensive than the ones i want from yew woodworks).i'll let you know what i find out.

 

[equedadoii]

  I just emailed them here-> http://turbulentlabs.com/contact/#wpcf7-f690-p15-o1 to ask, and am awaiting a reply,if turbulent don't offer that service then i will purchase the drivers from them and buy a pair of cups from yew woodworks as they do provide that service with the purchase of any cup..though i prefer the turbulent cups (and they are less expensive than the ones i want from yew woodworks).i'll let you know what i find out.

i was just pondering that exact scenario.
i wish someone could provide some insight as to what kind of difference a $125 set of cups will provide vs. a $70 set of cups vs. the cost of the 3d printed cup model/labor route via symphones
 
i think that it is probably safe to assume that there's a lot of subjectivity to a lot of this.
then again, people tend to espouse some super strong opinions about certain components.
 
thanks for e-mailing them by the way. it'll go towards helping lots of others in addition to you and i.

 

[xylin6]

with the price difference in cups i think its based on the type of wood used (how rare it is and how much it costs the seller plus how difficult it is to come by and to work with) as well as the size of the cups - for example the cups i am looking at on yew woodworks hold the same size driver but are a bit larger than the turbulent cups and have a much more varnished looking finish.
 
as for how much difference the enclosure material makes in how the headphones sound (various woods or aluminum or plastic) i honestly can't say as this is all relatively new to me.
 
some people seem to think there are definite differences
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come
 
then i've seen where others feel that it doesn't make much difference at all
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1u5jdt/what_are_your_thoughts_on_wood_cans_for_grado/

 

[fleasbaby]

with the price difference in cups i think its based on the type of wood used (how rare it is and how much it costs the seller plus how difficult it is to come by and to work with) as well as the size of the cups - for example the cups i am looking at on yew woodworks hold the same size driver but are a bit larger than the turbulent cups and have a much more varnished looking finish.

as for how much difference the enclosure material makes in how the headphones sound (various woods or aluminum or plastic) i honestly can't say as this is all relatively new to me.

some people seem to think there are definite differences
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come

then i've seen where others feel that it doesn't make much difference at all
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1u5jdt/what_are_your_thoughts_on_wood_cans_for_grado/

Wood makes a difference. Cost is determined by availability, and how difficult the wood is to turn. Personally, I have found the medium density woods to be the best, easy to work, easy to buy, and they sound great. Harder woods sound leaner and more analytical. Some prefer that signature, some don't...this is where subjectivity comes into play. I used to like them, tastes change though...I am using Black Limba at the moment and liking it. Some more expensive woods are also just gorgeous if turned and finished correctly.

Headbands, I use the MDR7502 one. It's light, good looking, and indestructible. I don't need to buy a leather pad for it. I can get it pretty cheaply by buying a used pair on eBay. It also has a narrower yoke though, so I turn my cups accordingly. Not everyone has this luxury.

 

[7keys]

  with the price difference in cups i think its based on the type of wood used (how rare it is and how much it costs the seller plus how difficult it is to come by and to work with) as well as the size of the cups - for example the cups i am looking at on yew woodworks hold the same size driver but are a bit larger than the turbulent cups and have a much more varnished looking finish.
 
as for how much difference the enclosure material makes in how the headphones sound (various woods or aluminum or plastic) i honestly can't say as this is all relatively new to me.
 
some people seem to think there are definite differences
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come
 
then i've seen where others feel that it doesn't make much difference at all
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1u5jdt/what_are_your_thoughts_on_wood_cans_for_grado/

Anyone who has actually tested tone-wood cups in a side by side comparison will tell you there is a difference. Although it depends on which ones they are testing, those that have a similar grain, weight, and density will sound similar.  This is why I put together the tone-wood experiment. People were saying there is no difference so I thought it would be nice if any member who wanted could hear for themselves.
 
Not one person said they couldn't tell the difference.  

 

[equedadoii]

just grabbed me another piece.
$50 total for a set of functional sr60s from ebay.
almost half what it costs new on amazon.
 
really, i'm just waiting for it all to be shipped. and depending on what kind of cups i get and inquiring about the labor, it's just about all set. buzzing!

 

[7keys]

I just finished the cups I'm going to use with the V6's...so I just switched them out.
 
Mahogany/Birdseye Maple

 

 

[xylin6]

okay so i just found an old pair of Aiwa K26P headphones (remember those? older inexpensive folding headphones with lots of bass) at the bottom of a drawer which i remembered had a loose wire on the left driver,so i thought "what better cans to practice my soldering skills (or rather lack thereof) on!" and so i opened up the cups and saw the black wire had indeed come loose from the solder on the left side driver,so i dug out this 40w radioshack soldering iron my neighbor gave me a couple years back along with some flux and solder and heated up the soldering iron,placed the wire over the contact area on the K26P driver and used the iron to heat up the solder,dabbed it onto the contact of the driver and i let it cool and harden and voila! success!
 
so...between that experience and this video -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
i think i'm going to give this a go myself and if i feel i've gotten myself in over my head when attempting it i'll just find someone locally who can solder the cable on to the drivers for me.
 
i've just ordered my magnum v6 drivers as well as the batch 004 cups from turbulent and since those cups were less expensive than the ones i was looking at from yew woodworks i can now order a cable as well.i'm looking at the 6" cable from venus audio (this one ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grado-Headphone-Cable-Upgrade-Canare-Cable-Wrap-Neutrik-Cardas-6ft-10ft-15ft-/121548401848?var=&hash=item1c4cd96cb8md0GgSgCV6cUvR-hKX2MWCg
 
i just wish it was 3" instead of 6" and terminated with a 3.5mm plug instead of 1/4" but after all its the same length as if i were to use the Grado SR60i cable (plus looks nicer) and saves me from having to un-solder the Grado cable, and i have
a 3.5mm adapter i can put on it anyway, so unless i find something better suited to my needs for the same price that is the cable i'll use.
 
totally stoked. now to wait for the parts to start arriving!

 

 

[7keys]

  okay so i just found an old pair of Aiwa K26P headphones (remember those? older inexpensive folding headphones with lots of bass) at the bottom of a drawer which i remembered had a loose wire on the left driver,so i thought "what better cans to practice my soldering skills (or rather lack thereof) on!" and so i opened up the cups and saw the black wire had indeed come loose from the solder on the left side driver,so i dug out this 40w radioshack soldering iron my neighbor gave me a couple years back along with some flux and solder and heated up the soldering iron,placed the wire over the contact area on the K26P driver and used the iron to heat up the solder,dabbed it onto the contact of the driver and i let it cool and harden and voila! success!
 
so...between that experience and this video -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6BMEDrqLDE
i think i'm going to give this a go myself and if i feel i've gotten myself in over my head when attempting it i'll just find someone locally who can solder the cable on to the drivers for me.
 
i've just ordered my magnum v6 drivers as well as the batch 004 cups from turbulent and since those cups were less expensive than the ones i was looking at from yew woodworks i can now order a cable as well.i'm looking at the 6" cable from venus audio (this one ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grado-Headphone-Cable-Upgrade-Canare-Cable-Wrap-Neutrik-Cardas-6ft-10ft-15ft-/121548401848?var=&hash=item1c4cd96cb8md0GgSgCV6cUvR-hKX2MWCg
 
i just wish it was 3" instead of 6" and terminated with a 3.5mm plug instead of 1/4" but after all its the same length as if i were to use the Grado SR60i cable (plus looks nicer) and saves me from having to un-solder the Grado cable, and i have
a 3.5mm adapter i can put on it anyway, so unless i find something better suited to my needs for the same price that is the cable i'll use.
 
totally stoked. now to wait for the parts to start arriving!

 

That's Great!
 
You should order yourself some L-cush ear pads. Rhydon says the V6's were made for L-cush pads.
Which reminds me I haven't tried my G-cush pads on the V6's yet. 

 

[xylin6]

  That's Great!
 
You should order yourself some L-cush ear pads. Rhydon says the V6's were made for L-cush pads.
Which reminds me I haven't tried my G-cush pads on the V6's yet. 

Thanks, I actually have an extra pair of L-cush which I ordered for my SR80i's about a year ago though I found I prefer the original S cush Comfies on both the SR80i and SR60i. I do however prefer L cush Bowls on my PS500e and will be using this extra pair for the V6 mod. I also just remembered I have an unopened pair of HD414 Sennheiser pads so i might even try the sunflower mod.

 

[Philliesfan]

I built a V5 magnum build using Turbulent Labs RS1 type mahogany bowls. I loved the detail and soundstage on these, but the bass needed a little help out of my iPhone 6. So I moved back to S Cush or 414 cups with a leather outside band (a classier version of the tape mod for bass that I created from an old belt of the proper width. It also nicely hides the garish yellow foam.)

Looking at the new drivers and their venting, I decided to vent my V5s before ordering the new version. I carefully opened up the same 3 holes as are open on the V6 Symphones page. Then put it back together. A 5 minute mod. Wow. The bottom bloomed but isn't boomy. I am now back to my G Cush pads. Plenty of bass and all the soundstage advantages of the larger bowls. And all-day comfort. Out of my phone with no other amp, they rival my Sennheiser HD 600s and Little Dot I+ tube amp now. The details of the V5 are still all there too. And the Grado mids are right as well. I play jazz and classical guitar, so I am sensitive to mids, attack and decay. It's all there on these still, with the warmer bottom end.

Three holes punched is plenty for me. Two might be enough if you use L Cush pads.
If you are considering the upgrade and have V5s, I'd give the ventilation mod a try first. I don't know what the new coating adds to the mix, but I am sticking with my V5s for now. They were a great driver before. Even better now.

 

[xylin6]

does a thicker bodied cup make any difference in sound even if they are both made of the same type of wood?
[in this case caribbean rosewood for the YWW and stripped rosewood for Turbulent]
because now i wonder if i shouldn't have ordered these from yew woodworks ->

 
 
instead of the batch 004 cups from turbulent

granted the yew woodworks cups are $35 more but (of course!) now that i've already paid for the turbulent cups the yew woodwork cups look more appealing to me 

 (curse my fickle brain!) - i love both, yet could only afford one or the other and i made my decision, i just hope it was the right one and more importantly that the V6 drivers will sound the same in the turbulent cups as they would had i purchased the yew woodworks cups.

 

[7keys]

  does a thicker bodied cup make any difference in sound even if they are both made of the same type of wood?
[in this case caribbean rosewood for the YWW and stripped rosewood for Turbulent]
because now i wonder if i shouldn't have ordered these from yew woodworks ->

 
 
instead of the batch 004 cups from turbulent

granted the yew woodworks cups are $35 more but (of course!) now that i've already paid for the turbulent cups the yew woodwork cups look more appealing to me 

 (curse my fickle brain!) - i love both, yet could only afford one or the other and i made my decision, i just hope it was the right one and more importantly that the V6 drivers will sound the same in the turbulent cups as they would had i purchased the yew woodworks cups.

SQ should be about the same. I like the design of the ones you picked more than the other one. 

 

[xylin6]

  SQ should be about the same. I like the design of the ones you picked more than the other one. 

Thanks for the quick response,that definitely puts my mind at ease.if i had the means to buy both i would, then use one for this build and the other for a future SennGrado build,but for now one project at a time, don't want to get ahead of myself.  though i'm definitely beginning to see the allure of modding .there's something satisfying and exciting about being an integral part of the process.

 

[marts30]

I also prefer the Turbulent ones