post your grado mods....
Dec 22, 2010 at 2:33 PM Post #1,306 of 8,817

nickchen

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Posts
4,393
Likes
39
Wow, not bad. Apart from the font thing close to perfection, and propably comfortable.
 
Dec 22, 2010 at 3:55 PM Post #1,307 of 8,817

les_garten

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Posts
4,445
Likes
27


Quote:



Figured you would like that one!
 
One or two swipes with a chain saw and it would be perfect for you!
 
biggrin.gif

 
Dec 23, 2010 at 8:26 AM Post #1,308 of 8,817

chippechanga

Head-Fier
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Posts
58
Likes
10


Quote:
Just finished these last night. MS1's with modded cables and a custom lambskin headband which came out even better than I had hoped.
 

 

 
 
More pics and info here... http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/529735/custom-embossed-leather-headband
 
 



wow, damn nice mod. I have tried to make leather headbands several times, but it have never turned out as nice as yours.
Why not finish the "yellowness" of with a pair of HD 414 pads?
 
Dec 23, 2010 at 10:55 AM Post #1,310 of 8,817

Nightslayer

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
May 9, 2010
Posts
596
Likes
13
Nowhere as professional looking, but here's my two cents :)

Got the wooden shells from a fellow head-fier, but I caused him quite a hassle in the process so I'm not sure if he'd want me to advertise how great a job he did and consequently get flooded with a deluge of requests.
 
Dec 23, 2010 at 10:58 AM Post #1,311 of 8,817

ArmAndHammer

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Dec 6, 2008
Posts
2,596
Likes
124
Look great....both pairs on this page.
 
I guess this is as good a place as any to ask...if there is anyone interested in making some woodie sound chamber for my SR325's (not the cups or a distancer, a whole new air chamber), PM me please.
 
Dec 23, 2010 at 1:58 PM Post #1,312 of 8,817

nickchen

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Posts
4,393
Likes
39
Woody-yes, but I don't recommend putting the systems out of their stock chamber. We did what you intend on NoXter's MS1K, all the bass was completely gone.
 
Dec 23, 2010 at 8:17 PM Post #1,313 of 8,817

Nightslayer

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
May 9, 2010
Posts
596
Likes
13
Bila's done it a thousand times with different results than what you pointed out.. :/ Hm.
 
Dec 23, 2010 at 10:55 PM Post #1,314 of 8,817

Bilavideo

Caution: Incomplete trades.
Joined
Feb 29, 2008
Posts
3,101
Likes
121
 

Nowhere as professional looking, but here's my two cents :)

Got the wooden shells from a fellow head-fier, but I caused him quite a hassle in the process so I'm not sure if he'd want me to advertise how great a job he did and consequently get flooded with a deluge of requests.




Nightslayer, I think the real credit goes to you.  You cut the chambers down to a reasonable size.  The result is an aesthetic improvement that provides a spacious air chamber while not going totally insane.  
 
Quote:
Woody-yes, but I don't recommend putting the systems out of their stock chamber. We did what you intend on NoXter's MS1K, all the bass was completely gone.


Things can go awry.  Care must be taken to remove the drivers without damaging them in the process.  The most forgiving error is to push or crinkle the thin mylar diaphragm during removal.  The fix is fairly easy: Take a piece of tape, lay it over the wrinkled area and lightly pull the wrinkle out.  It takes a little practice but it works like a charm.
 
A less forgiving error is to perforate the diaphragm.  That's not the best way to "vent" the driver.
 
Another complication comes up when the voice coil slips out of the gap between the magnet and the magnet plate.  This will kill your bass - at least until you get the voice coil back into place.
 
Finally, when pulling the driver out, special care should be taken to avoid damaging the bottom of the driver, which forms a bridge between the pads on the back of the driver and the voice coil on its front side.  Voice coil wire is extremely thin and fragile.  For that reason, treat the bottom of the driver with softest of kids' gloves.
 
While it's true that I've successfully removed the driver from its plastic many times, I've also had my share of mishaps.  I know how heartbreaking it can be when things go wrong.  Nevertheless, there's no reason to let the fear of a mishap stop you from taking that next step.  While slip-on second-stage woodies are an improvement over rear chambers made of plastic, there's no substitute for beginning in wood.  You can't have it both ways.  Either plastic doesn't matter, in which case it shouldn't matter that the driver is encased in plastic - front and sides.  But if that's the case, why replace the plastic second chamber?  On the other hand, if plastic does matter (and it does), why engulf the driver in it?  We go to great lengths to damp magnet plates and remove plastic rear grills while Grado houses its best headphones in mahogany and aluminum.  Is this merely cosmetic?  If it is, Grado lovers can save themselves some coin by sticking with plastic.  On the other hand, if you've ever owned a plastic violin (I did at the age of seven), you'll know why luthiers spring for tone wood.
 
To paraphrase Admiral David Farragut, at the Battle of Mobile Bay, "Damn the torpedoes!  Full speed ahead!"*
 
(Farragut's words were actually, "Damn the torpedoes!  Four bells.  Captain Drayton, go ahead!  Jouett, full speed!")
 
Dec 24, 2010 at 7:06 AM Post #1,317 of 8,817

nickchen

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Posts
4,393
Likes
39
In our attempt, NoXter's driver remained unharmed dead sure, as we just cut the sound chamber off, leaving it in its stock seat with the stock mesh in front. We inserted that chamberless construct in the woody, so that we had technically the same chamberless situation as the MS Pro, RS1 and RS2, and it sounded awful. No big deal, after rebuilding the chamber by means of cardboard & epoxy, everything was okay again.
 
The smaller driver seem to differ from the bigger ones anyway (I have the suspicion it's the backwards fleece coating), the punch-hole mod is really to be recommended with the small models, but with the MS Pro, you end up in a mids- and trebleless muddy mess.
 
Dec 24, 2010 at 6:30 PM Post #1,318 of 8,817

ArmAndHammer

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Dec 6, 2008
Posts
2,596
Likes
124
Well...this is more of a repair due to a design flaw rather than a mod, but it might be helpful for others that suffer from loose cups. After less then two weeks of owning my SR325i's...the left cup lost all tension and now slides freely up and down and has become a real PITA since I have to constantly mess with them while they are on my head. I used a shaft collar and it is a perfect fix. The cup no longer moves down. It will still move up and can freely rotate but now stays exactly were I want it. The shaft collars I picked up on Amazon for like $.64 each I think. They are black as you can see and I think they blend in and are not obtrusive at all. I went ahead and did both sides so there was symmetry even though the right side has not failed...yet. The exact size I used is: 1/8" ID, 3/8" OD with a 6-32 x 1/8 set screw. Here are a few pics....
 

 

 

 
Dec 24, 2010 at 6:38 PM Post #1,319 of 8,817

BobSaysHi

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Posts
3,370
Likes
89
Dec 24, 2010 at 6:42 PM Post #1,320 of 8,817

buffalowings

Went way too far, too many times.
Joined
May 14, 2010
Posts
4,542
Likes
39


Quote:
Well...this is more of a repair due to a design flaw rather than a mod, but it might be helpful for others that suffer from loose cups. After less then two weeks of owning my SR325i's...the left cup lost all tension and now slides freely up and down and has become a real PITA since I have to constantly mess with them while they are on my head. I used a shaft collar and it is a perfect fix. The cup no longer moves down. It will still move up and can freely rotate but now stays exactly were I want it. The shaft collars I picked up on Amazon for like $.64 each I think. They are black as you can see and I think they blend in and are not obtrusive at all. I went ahead and did both sides so there was symmetry even though the right side has not failed...yet. The exact size I used is: 1/8" ID, 3/8" OD with a 6-32 x 1/8 set screw. Here are a few pics....
 

 

 



that's an awesome idea right there! 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top