[nickchen]

Wow, not bad. Apart from the font thing close to perfection, and propably comfortable.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Nice!

Figured you would like that one!
 
One or two swipes with a chain saw and it would be perfect for you!
 

 

[chippechanga]

Quote:

Just finished these last night. MS1's with modded cables and a custom lambskin headband which came out even better than I had hoped.
 

 

 
 
More pics and info here... http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/529735/custom-embossed-leather-headband
 
 

wow, damn nice mod. I have tried to make leather headbands several times, but it have never turned out as nice as yours.
Why not finish the "yellowness" of with a pair of HD 414 pads?

 

[Bilavideo]

The yellow headband and yellow cable look sharp against the black shells and pads.  Now, where did I put that chainsaw?

 

[Nightslayer]

Nowhere as professional looking, but here's my two cents

Got the wooden shells from a fellow head-fier, but I caused him quite a hassle in the process so I'm not sure if he'd want me to advertise how great a job he did and consequently get flooded with a deluge of requests.

 

[ArmAndHammer]

Look great....both pairs on this page.
 
I guess this is as good a place as any to ask...if there is anyone interested in making some woodie sound chamber for my SR325's (not the cups or a distancer, a whole new air chamber), PM me please.

 

[nickchen]

Woody-yes, but I don't recommend putting the systems out of their stock chamber. We did what you intend on NoXter's MS1K, all the bass was completely gone.

 

[Nightslayer]

Bila's done it a thousand times with different results than what you pointed out.. :/ Hm.

 

[Bilavideo]

 

Nowhere as professional looking, but here's my two cents

Got the wooden shells from a fellow head-fier, but I caused him quite a hassle in the process so I'm not sure if he'd want me to advertise how great a job he did and consequently get flooded with a deluge of requests.

Nightslayer, I think the real credit goes to you.  You cut the chambers down to a reasonable size.  The result is an aesthetic improvement that provides a spacious air chamber while not going totally insane.  
 
Quote:

Woody-yes, but I don't recommend putting the systems out of their stock chamber. We did what you intend on NoXter's MS1K, all the bass was completely gone.

Things can go awry.  Care must be taken to remove the drivers without damaging them in the process.  The most forgiving error is to push or crinkle the thin mylar diaphragm during removal.  The fix is fairly easy: Take a piece of tape, lay it over the wrinkled area and lightly pull the wrinkle out.  It takes a little practice but it works like a charm.
 
A less forgiving error is to perforate the diaphragm.  That's not the best way to "vent" the driver.
 
Another complication comes up when the voice coil slips out of the gap between the magnet and the magnet plate.  This will kill your bass - at least until you get the voice coil back into place.
 
Finally, when pulling the driver out, special care should be taken to avoid damaging the bottom of the driver, which forms a bridge between the pads on the back of the driver and the voice coil on its front side.  Voice coil wire is extremely thin and fragile.  For that reason, treat the bottom of the driver with softest of kids' gloves.
 
While it's true that I've successfully removed the driver from its plastic many times, I've also had my share of mishaps.  I know how heartbreaking it can be when things go wrong.  Nevertheless, there's no reason to let the fear of a mishap stop you from taking that next step.  While slip-on second-stage woodies are an improvement over rear chambers made of plastic, there's no substitute for beginning in wood.  You can't have it both ways.  Either plastic doesn't matter, in which case it shouldn't matter that the driver is encased in plastic - front and sides.  But if that's the case, why replace the plastic second chamber?  On the other hand, if plastic does matter (and it does), why engulf the driver in it?  We go to great lengths to damp magnet plates and remove plastic rear grills while Grado houses its best headphones in mahogany and aluminum.  Is this merely cosmetic?  If it is, Grado lovers can save themselves some coin by sticking with plastic.  On the other hand, if you've ever owned a plastic violin (I did at the age of seven), you'll know why luthiers spring for tone wood.
 
To paraphrase Admiral David Farragut, at the Battle of Mobile Bay, "Damn the torpedoes!  Full speed ahead!"*
 
(Farragut's words were actually, "Damn the torpedoes!  Four bells.  Captain Drayton, go ahead!  Jouett, full speed!")

 

[BobSaysHi]

Bilavideo, don't think I've forgotten about your promise to make a video of you taking the driver out.

 

[Bilavideo]

 

Bilavideo, don't think I've forgotten about your promise to make a video of you taking the driver out.

I've got some drivers coming.  As soon as they get here, I'll shoot some video.  It should be nothing if not entertaining.

 

[nickchen]

In our attempt, NoXter's driver remained unharmed dead sure, as we just cut the sound chamber off, leaving it in its stock seat with the stock mesh in front. We inserted that chamberless construct in the woody, so that we had technically the same chamberless situation as the MS Pro, RS1 and RS2, and it sounded awful. No big deal, after rebuilding the chamber by means of cardboard & epoxy, everything was okay again.
 
The smaller driver seem to differ from the bigger ones anyway (I have the suspicion it's the backwards fleece coating), the punch-hole mod is really to be recommended with the small models, but with the MS Pro, you end up in a mids- and trebleless muddy mess.

 

[ArmAndHammer]

Well...this is more of a repair due to a design flaw rather than a mod, but it might be helpful for others that suffer from loose cups. After less then two weeks of owning my SR325i's...the left cup lost all tension and now slides freely up and down and has become a real PITA since I have to constantly mess with them while they are on my head. I used a shaft collar and it is a perfect fix. The cup no longer moves down. It will still move up and can freely rotate but now stays exactly were I want it. The shaft collars I picked up on Amazon for like $.64 each I think. They are black as you can see and I think they blend in and are not obtrusive at all. I went ahead and did both sides so there was symmetry even though the right side has not failed...yet. The exact size I used is: 1/8" ID, 3/8" OD with a 6-32 x 1/8 set screw. Here are a few pics....
 

 

 

 

[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

The shaft collars I picked up on Amazon for like $.64 each I think.  The exact size I used is: 1/8" ID, 3/8" OD with a 6-32 x 1/8 set screw. Here are a few pics....

 
A link for the lazy people out there. I'm ordering 12. http://www.amazon.com/Climax-Metal-C-012-BOX5-Collar-Plating/dp/B000P0Q9PK/ref=sr_1_7?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1293233853&sr=1-7
 
BAIL! Amazon says "Usually ships in 1 - 2 months."

 

[buffalowings]

Quote:

Well...this is more of a repair due to a design flaw rather than a mod, but it might be helpful for others that suffer from loose cups. After less then two weeks of owning my SR325i's...the left cup lost all tension and now slides freely up and down and has become a real PITA since I have to constantly mess with them while they are on my head. I used a shaft collar and it is a perfect fix. The cup no longer moves down. It will still move up and can freely rotate but now stays exactly were I want it. The shaft collars I picked up on Amazon for like $.64 each I think. They are black as you can see and I think they blend in and are not obtrusive at all. I went ahead and did both sides so there was symmetry even though the right side has not failed...yet. The exact size I used is: 1/8" ID, 3/8" OD with a 6-32 x 1/8 set screw. Here are a few pics....
 

 

 

that's an awesome idea right there!