post your grado mods....
Mar 31, 2016 at 10:05 AM Post #7,006 of 8,992
 
So, is the general concensus that the cups are more important than the driver?

Is there some synergy involved such that certain driver/cup combinations pair better than others?


I think it depends in the driver itself and also the wood used. Each kind of wood has different sound character. Also, cable will give significant effect to sound.
 
I think they help there since the comfy pads muffle the sound a bit.


Is it because Gpad n lcush has inside hole which is will impact in airy and open sound, right?

I tested a $120 silver cable against the standard Grado SR60 cable and my ears couldn't pick up any difference. 
 
I wonder what others here think about this? 
 
Mar 31, 2016 at 10:14 AM Post #7,007 of 8,992
I tested a $120 silver cable against the standard Grado SR60 cable and my ears couldn't pick up any difference. 

I wonder what others here think about this? 


What do you feel when replacing it with silver? Brighter?.

In my opinion Grado will improve when use copper cable. Definetly copper is warm and bold, on the other hand main character of sr60 is bright. If you need more detail and brighter, your choice is right to use ful silver but if you need warmer n bolder you may consider full copper. Cmiiw
 
Apr 7, 2016 at 3:46 AM Post #7,011 of 8,992
  Hi i'm new here, below is my Custom Series - Wood Grado
 

Could you post more pictures? It looks really neat!
 
Ordered a pair of bowl pads from ebay and a leather headband via turbulent labs. Looking forward to their delivery.
 
Apr 7, 2016 at 3:57 AM Post #7,012 of 8,992
Those 
  Hi i'm new here, below is my Custom Series - Wood Grado
 

Those grills look like they're SERIOUSLY blocking airflow.... aren't they killing the bass performance?
(look awesome though)
 
Apr 7, 2016 at 4:51 AM Post #7,013 of 8,992
  Those 
Those grills look like they're SERIOUSLY blocking airflow.... aren't they killing the bass performance?
(look awesome though)

No i doesn't , still have enough room for the airflow :)
  Could you post more pictures? It looks really neat!
 
Ordered a pair of bowl pads from ebay and a leather headband via turbulent labs. Looking forward to their delivery.

Thanks, sorry but it appears im not allowed to upload photos :frowning2:
 
Apr 7, 2016 at 7:34 AM Post #7,014 of 8,992

Ah that's true. You'll need to post in more threads and then it becomes unlocked again.
 
Apr 8, 2016 at 10:27 AM Post #7,015 of 8,992
Hi everyone,
I want to know if somebody on headfi have already split the metal cups of the Grado Sr325??
If so it will be very appreciate to have a little tutorial or somet tips because one cups have a dangerously exposed cable that will broke in a near futur.

If a savior is there, I pray for his miraculous healing advice!
Thanks.
 
Apr 8, 2016 at 10:44 AM Post #7,016 of 8,992
  Hi everyone,
I want to know if somebody on headfi have already split the metal cups of the Grado Sr325??
If so it will be very appreciate to have a little tutorial or somet tips because one cups have a dangerously exposed cable that will broke in a near futur.

If a savior is there, I pray for his miraculous healing advice!
Thanks.


I've just resoldered the cables on a 325i and haven't resealed yet actually.  What do you want to know exactly?  If you just want to open them, I used a hairdryer on the cups from the side until it was nice and warm, then you can start to twist and pull.  325s are quite easy to open as the metal stays warm for a while and keeps the glue soft.  Just keep the hairdryer on the sides of the cups and keep turning the cups so they get heated evenly.  I'd try to avoid heating from the top or bottom if possible.
 
Apr 8, 2016 at 10:55 AM Post #7,017 of 8,992
Thanks chontler for the fast answer it is really appreciate.
So it look like it's the same technic than the other plastic Grado, quite simple in fact!
Do you change and upgrade the cable too?
I will like a cable that will avoid this crazy twisting problem...and improve even more the sound if it's possible.
 
Apr 8, 2016 at 11:06 AM Post #7,018 of 8,992
  Thanks chontler for the fast answer it is really appreciate.
So it look like it's the same technic than the other plastic Grado, quite simple in fact!
Do you change and upgrade the cable too?
I will like a cable that will avoid this crazy twisting problem...and improve even more the sound if it's possible.

yes same kind of thing as the plastic ones.  It was for a similar reason - not a split cable, although that is inevitable with grados and their easily twistable cans.  The issue I found with these is that the cable also can come away inside the can and it eventually snaps off the solder point.  all that is holding the cable inside the cup is a cut off plastic cable tie and maybe a blob of glue.
 
The tidiest thing you can do that won't require soldering is to turn the drivers 180 degrees and glue the cable along the inside of the cup.  I got this idea from a moon-audio mod on my GS1000.  this way you won't have to resolder anything and the split part will be inside the cup.  whatever you do, you'll have to do it to both sides to keep the lengths equal - unless you just tape up the split and glue it back in place.
I'll take a photo of mine when I get home in a couple of hours.
 
Apr 8, 2016 at 11:15 AM Post #7,019 of 8,992
 
Just keep the hairdryer on the sides of the cups and keep turning the cups so they get heated evenly.  I'd try to avoid heating from the top or bottom if possible.

 A piece a masking tape on the driver and one on the back cup opening will prevent hot air from hitting the Mylar diaphragm.
Mylar, when heated, tensions and this might change the Fs (Resonant Frequency).
 
Apr 8, 2016 at 11:49 AM Post #7,020 of 8,992
  yes same kind of thing as the plastic ones.  It was for a similar reason - not a split cable, although that is inevitable with grados and their easily twistable cans.  The issue I found with these is that the cable also can come away inside the can and it eventually snaps off the solder point.  all that is holding the cable inside the cup is a cut off plastic cable tie and maybe a blob of glue.
 
The tidiest thing you can do that won't require soldering is to turn the drivers 180 degrees and glue the cable along the inside of the cup.  I got this idea from a moon-audio mod on my GS1000.  this way you won't have to resolder anything and the split part will be inside the cup.  whatever you do, you'll have to do it to both sides to keep the lengths equal - unless you just tape up the split and glue it back in place.
I'll take a photo of mine when I get home in a couple of hours.

Okay, thanks alot.
I must NOT THINK to my gone Grado GS1000 because it break my heart but from what I understand you weren't willing to take the risk of opening the cup either....mine was loosing sound connection intermittently and listening to pure beauty became somekind of a paranoid nightmare.
For the Sr325 I will take my time and as soon as a sound problem occur I will try to upgrade the cable.
Thinking about nylon cable...but don't know were to find one and don't know what type sound the better for the money.
 

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