[ericj]

  Both black forked T30's ?
 
The Shure 550 or 750 pads are quite nice with the same inner opening or close if I recall, pictures are posted in the thread here. Might be worth a shot before transplanting.

 
 
Yeah, two pair, in OK / not great shape (heavily used in a recording studio). The issue is that they are designed for people with parallel ears. 

 

[nick n]

oh yeah I suppose so also the odd feeling of an off-angle headband on your head I guess too if it even stays that way = maddening. On top of the offset on ears

 

[MuZo2]

   
YH-100 drivers are much bigger than HP/YH-1 drivers and sound different. HP-1 and YH-1 are identical near as anyone can tell. That must be what you are thinking of. 
 

From specs they both have same diameter.

 

[kalbee]

   
YH-100 drivers are much bigger than HP/YH-1 drivers and sound different. HP-1 and YH-1 are identical near as anyone can tell. That must be what you are thinking of. 

I just double checked the drivers.
 
The diameter for the drivers of HP/YH-1aniso vs. HP/YH-100 is the same.
The thicknesses, however, are not. I only measured half the magnet structure but the YH-100 is 1mm thicker than that of the HP-1aniso.
 
That might explain the difference in sensitivity.
As far as the diaphragm itself I am not willing to crack open the drivers... not sure how and when I'd break the thing. Sorry :x
 
But at least as far as the thickness of the drivers is concerned, they are not the same so the two models don't share the same driver.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

gosh, you're very generous BMF..i really appreciate this offer of yours, but maybe it would be more helpful if there an explanation from others that both the YH100 & HP1 aniso are equally the same..and not to forget, i'm very thankfully alot for your good deeds..if you dont mind, i'm the one who would pay the shipping cost from there to my place, using paypal..please shoot a PM me for the detail on the shipping cost..

 
This HP-1 came in a silver box so it is most likely not anisotropic.
This set arrived with one Driver DOA, so I took it apart.
The traces were broken from the center tab and side tab connections. 
The magnets on the Bad side were fractured into 3 pieces (both sides).
I super glued them together.
I don't know if the driver is salvageable, or not.
 

Close up of damaged diaphragm
 

Close up of other side of damaged diaphragm
 

Good Driver at top right 
 

Other side of Good and Bad drivers
Good Driver measures 135 ohms

 

[iQEM]

I have both. What exactly would you like me to do?

hmm, maybe check em' both side by side if them both are 1:1 equally the same..
and maybe take picts of em together? thx for asking, i really appreciate this..

*update:
so they both not share the same driver..too bad, but good to know..
that explain the sensitivity differences..again, thanks for checking it, for me..

YH-100 drivers are much bigger than HP/YH-1 drivers and sound different. HP-1 and YH-1 are identical near as anyone can tell. That must be what you are thinking of. 

now i expected this kind of comment, from an elder like ericj here, that have even longer than me when involve about Ortho world..thanks for clear it up for me, again i really appreciate this..you and many ortho members here are very helping when someone like me or anyone need help or atleast an advice..

many thanks for you all, i'm really glad have being a part of this Ortho family here for years, til today..

I regard the T10, once damped, as a near perfect supra-aural headphone, and can't imagine transplanting the drivers. 

How does the T30 driver sound when mounted in something comfortable? I have two of them here, but only painful memories. worst frame ever. 

T30 which version? i have both of the version, and they sounds different stock..
based on my experience, well maybe you only need to make 1 of your collection modded, if their both the same version..
buy a replacement pad of sony XB series on ebay, i used XB500 pads, you might wanna try the bigger size like XB700..try to put them on, you would notice they being more comfyier than before, if needed, unbent the headband a lil bit would loosen up the tension..just be careful not to do that holding the arm fork or housing, the arm fork here are a lil' bit fragile becos they not made from steel..and as i notice it was made from fiber/plastic, its way too thin at the forks edge of the joint to the housing..you dont wanna make them crack accidentally like i did with the silver arm fork..
so the comfy mod are the pads and a lil' bit unbend if needed..
next, re-sealing the inside housing with dynamat&silicon sealer..you might find several mod from me if search em using luddo search tool..
if there anything you need to know, just mention me..

 

[ericj]

T30 which version? i have both of the version, and they sounds different stock..
based on my experience, well maybe you only need to make 1 of your collection modded, if their both the same version..
buy a replacement pad of sony XB series on ebay, i used XB500 pads, you might wanna try the bigger size like XB700..try to put them on, you would notice they being more comfyier than before, if needed, unbent the headband a lil bit would loosen up the tension..just be careful not to do that holding the arm fork or housing, the arm fork here are a lil' bit fragile becos they not made from steel..and as i notice it was made from fiber/plastic, its way too thin at the forks edge of the joint to the housing..you dont wanna make them crack accidentally like i did with the silver arm fork..
so the comfy mod are the pads and a lil' bit unbend if needed..
next, re-sealing the inside housing with dynamat&silicon sealer..you might find several mod from me if search em using luddo search tool..
if there anything you need to know, just mention me..

 
I was unaware that the T30 has versions. If the yokes are the thing, I am pretty sure the yokes are black (I haven't looked at them in a couple years) and the magnets are slotted vertically. 
 
I bought them from a talented and prolific (and apparently effing wealthy) session guitarist who was refreshing his home studio. 
 
The headbands have been wrenched around a bit in an effort to make them more comfortable and they were not particularly clean. The L and R badges are missing. 
 
Thanks for the XB pad recommendation i might give it a try. The driver always looked promising. 
 
I have a pair of those hammacher zebrawood headphones that were always looking for a driver swap. Might get some T30 drivers in there. But i also have beyer and sennheiser and foster dynamic drivers that might be a good match. 

 

[iQEM]

here some picts both version of mine..





you might want to dead sound the whole plastic surface inside the housing, left the vent/opening area alone..based on my experience, the plastic reverb make the output harsh and sound plasticy..
i also add a lining of dynamat circling the capsule driver to absorb any bad vibe from the driver..
i also remove the felt lens from the grill baffles, leave along the black fabric cloth/paper..
and put the felt lens from baffle beneath the yellow mineral wool, without any surgical tape use..
done, take a listen..much more clearer&smooth sounding after the simple mod..

*note:
oh yea, i use silver germania cable from the previous T10's, the stock cable might be have oxidized badly since its often sound cut or loosen up the ground..oh well, waddya expect from the 80's cans..its may never gonna be totally perfect in term function, right?

 

[GREQ]

.

 

[Hal Rockwell]

This
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
is what came out of crossbreeding this (Kanen KM-880)
 

 
with this (Takstar TS-551)
 

 
and a pair of 32Ohm banged up orthodynamic drivers humbly donated by @khbaur330162.
 
With some help from @nick n, I was able to assemble the first version of these but they had a huge channel imbalance. I thought the culprit was the cable since it was the first cable I ever braided, but I was wrong. nick n suggested that the magnets in one of the drivers may not be aligned properly which might cause the imbalance and I should take the driver apart to fix it or rule that out. I knew I couldn't take the risk of damaging the drivers by disassembling them since they were already in a pretty bad shape so I had to find another way. I've noticed that when I wiggle the cable around the problem goes away so it must be an electrical insulation problem. A closer inspection with a magnifying lamp revealed that the nylon ring that acts as a spacer between the two terminal rings and prevents them from touching each other is either missing or worn. I used a piece of nylon file divider to make a new spacer and that solved the imbalance issue.
 
The next problem was that the ear cups weren't holding the baffles strong enough which made the entire headphone feel like it is going to come apart in your hands. The reason for that was the sponge gasket I made to achieve a proper isolation between the baffle and the cup which made the original screws not long enough to properly dig into the wood and hold the cup in place. I switched to thicker and longer screws and changed their direction so instead if going through the baffle and into the wooden cup it goes through the cup and into the baffle. I had to route cavities on the cups for the screw heads.
 
The paint job is a simple two coat wood stain.
 
The cable is a four braid Teflon insulated SPC terminated in a simple Nutrik 3.5mm plug and covered in a rattlesnake Techflex.
 
The ear pads are protein leather (I tried velour pads too but the treble was just too piercing and unpleasant).
 
So how do they sound? -I won't get much into this except by saying that I was never addicted to a sound signature of a single headphone before I heard this one. When sometimes I wake up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom or get a glass of water I always swing by my desktop rig to put them on my head and listen to a song or two. This how addictive they are. And this is why I called this headphone "Addictive Two".

 

[nick n]

YES! Very nice work.
What a difference a nice woodstain and treatment makes.
It's been a while since the first version

.
 
Sure looks classy and high end, and I bet sounds like it also.
Can't buy the satisfaction this sort of thing gives.
 Thanks for posting these up.
 
BTW what size bass port are you using.

 

[Hal Rockwell]

YES! Very nice work.
What a difference a nice woodstain and treatment makes.
It's been a while since the first version h34r: .

Sure looks classy and high end, and I bet sounds like it also.
Can't buy the satisfaction this sort of thing gives.
 Thanks for posting these up.

BTW what size bass port are you using.

Yeah. I didn't have time to work on it up until now. Thats why it took almost two years to complete. I just don't like taking things step by step and since I've been on sick leave the last three weeks I managed to complete this project in two one day long sittings.

I made the bass port 4mm in diameter.

 

[nick n]

Found another unknown one.

I did not bid.
TECHNICALLY it is unknown from the brand and model # but it is another one like member "Bucketinabucket" found earlier. SFI style driver. Bucket's had the small center dot marking in the middle of the diaphragm, and i forget what other SFI driver I saw this in also.
 
I will not post the name up in actual text in case anyone sees one again ( stops random search result hits from people that don't participate in the thread )  and would ask nobody else does either in case someone in here wants to grab one later on.
There's not much left out there that has not been found, but there are still a few yet to be discovered.
 
Here are the saved pics from the UK.
 

 

 

 

 
 
BTW has anyone toyed with micropore on the SFI rears, one or many holes covered? An odd question yes since they are generallyadequate in the highs, but I have some that are tuned the opposite in various configurations.
Curious.
 
EDIT:
 
Found an interesting pad design on some Vivanco SR ifl 1000 .
Seems to be fabric except for the very surface that ears rest on so it gets a good seal but assume it still allows a bit of leakage out the sides.
May be of some use to someone.

 
 
I keep looking at the Takstar headband there and it seems easy to use on nearly anything so long as the cup diameter is right.
Great work again.

 

[nick n]

Giving this thread it's vitamins and revivin' it like the 'ol days.

 
 
Shouldn't ever get past page 3.
Will have to do some more projects.
 
 Here's a picture of the Hok80V2 with the Sehnnslamniner HD25 pads on it.  These are very soft, got them for the Martin Logan Mikros 90 mod, but they aren't to my taste on that at all. From ebay seller Wang Yifei.
Can describe them in one word = worthy.
 
Perfect fit and size and opening far as I'm concerned. Notice how the thin smoother edges are very snug on the pad lip there so no way these are dropping off.
Can wear them for hours on end.
 

 

[Hutnicks]

  Giving this thread it's vitamins and revivin' it like the 'ol days.

 
 
Shouldn't ever get past page 3.
Will have to do some more projects.
 
 Here's a picture of the Hok80V2 with the Sehnnslamniner HD25 pads on it.  These are very soft, got them for the Martin Logan Mikros 90 mod, but they aren't to my taste on that at all. From ebay seller Wang Yifei.
Can describe them in one word = worthy.
 
Perfect fit and size and opening far as I'm concerned. Notice how the thin smoother edges are very snug on the pad lip there so no way these are dropping off.
Can wear them for hours on end.
 

Whats the diameter on those? Would they fit an HP-1?