Orthodynamic Roundup
Oct 6, 2012 at 3:23 AM Post #20,551 of 27,156
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bruma what's that shell you are using?

It is a 20 EUR H&M headphone. Originally it had a terrible sound and also the wearing comfort was awful. Had to tear apart the whole thing: remove the plastic cover from the headband and glue some foam on the remaining flat spring, then cover it with soft leather; bend the form of the spring and the earpiece frame till it fitted well.
 
Oct 7, 2012 at 3:36 AM Post #20,552 of 27,156
Spent tonight nearly completing this latest set. All that is needed now is to wait for some Goop brand glue to set up at the cable entry strain relief hole, and roll some leather pads. Got enough spare pads with different sized openings kicking around to trial a few center hole sizes see whats best.
I found the bass excellent as in earth shattering without interfering too much with the rest of the frequencies on the earlier AT-701 mod ( was dominant though ), the bass port holes being 5/32. This time on these I wanted to bring that down slightly but I had stupidly drilled the 5/32 holes already. So dowsing the project drawers I wanted to find some sort of metal tube  or grommet that was at the next size down to fit into the already too large bass port holes. What I ended up using was some 3/16 aluminum rivets.
I carefully pulled out their pins, cut the tube length down by half and countersunk the outsides of the bass port holes to fit their 3/16 outer diameter.
Then I carefully drilled out the center of the rivet housing holes to the required 9/64 and popped them in. I figure that this way if it didn't work I can go even lower with another rivet housing, and in an ideal situation this makes all the ports retrofittable. I will however ( after some testing ) glue the outer edges in place. Can still be pried out again to retrofit a smaller size bass port tuner later on.
Worth trying if someone is using wood for cups, because once you drill, it's otherwise there for good.
 
A few updates.
Pressing on some epoxied Sintra brand plastic squares to deal with the shifting slider backplate squeaks, worked well. needs a touchup in spots the two part epoxy is not all that great at times.
 

 
The installed bass tuners and faces of cups all sealed up around the drivers, I'll glue a bit around the tops when I settle for sure on these 9/64 size holes
 

 
How the baffles are attached to the cup faces. This is 3m Black carpet tape which I may regret having used if I ever have to get into these again for some reason. Unbelievably strong bond on the adhesive and also it seems made out of carbon fibre or something. Nice and thin can hardly notice the seam/interface between baffle and cup after the install. No screws necessary with this stuff.
 

 
Glue drying on the countersunk strain relief. Used some small black wood screws and have small rubber washers there in between the headband arms and cups. Nice for vibes I suppose but it's very sturdy and not sloppy swivelling now that is easily adjustable.
the veneer on the baffle rears has been oiled with Watco Natural as the cups have been. Tried to match up some of the grain i think it worked well.
Some small veneer squares are going to be added where the old textured black badges were before.
 

 
I might not want to gift these away after like I had in mind. Maybe they'll get a T50rp instead. So far these have taken about 3 times as long as the AT-701 pair. I need to go and install some of the new style reduced bass port tuners in those tomorrow also. Bass is incredibly awesome and fun but it's just a touch too bold for my liking and over long term listening. Nice that it can be done after the fact assuming the holes don't fill up with sawdust. We'll see.
 
Oct 7, 2012 at 6:07 PM Post #20,553 of 27,156
Finished and fitted with temporary leather pads of exact dimensions needed. Need a few dust specks cleaned off and pads rolled from softer sheep leather, fill one or two cracks with model cement on the rear slider backings I added.
Added 4 screws on the earside of the baffles slightly countersunk to secure them better, the 3m carpet tape is good but i did manage to peel it off to redo some damping that was bothering me in my mind, one of those "what if it's screwy or I added too much on one side " sort of things.
Veneer is close enough for my liking.
 
Yeah I  should have added to be previous post i guess. oh well next time.
 

 

 

 
Oct 7, 2012 at 10:06 PM Post #20,555 of 27,156
These bass port tuners are super easy to do. Just put some into these other cans i did up a while back to come down from 5/32 to 9/64. Took about 10 minutes.
Plantronics 995 pads added for comfort, lower profile and slightly larger openings, plus the red fabric :).

 
I'll stop hijacking this thread now there's nothing more. Somebody else has to have something on the go, updates etc.
 
Oct 8, 2012 at 9:41 AM Post #20,559 of 27,156
Koss retrofit is 420 grams, AT-701 is 370 grams, including cabling and large TRS jacks. The wood itself is surprisingly light, but I can't recall how much a pair of SFI drivers weighs by themselves.  The Veneer baffle Koss one has a bunch of steel in the headband ( that figures ) so that's a factor there too along with the coiled cable maybe i should have used a regular one. Sounds heavy doesn't feel that way.
Thanks for the comments. I hope someone else posts a new project soon also.
 
Oct 9, 2012 at 4:03 PM Post #20,560 of 27,156
The first batch of dipoles arrived!

They came in this padded envelope, fixed on a cardboard with a tape. The really good news is that they have 32 ohm! just 9mm thick and 39 mm diameter. the black frame is fixed with hot glue and comes off easily.
I bought plastic cheapos on my way home in an computer shop.

The advantage is, they are really lightweight - now that they are ready with the SFI's together with the cable 190 gramm.
Here the drivers are glued to the baffle and holes sealed.


The cups are lined with a dense felt and the damping is the ring of visco foam filled with kapok (I love the neutral damping of kapok).

the pads are solid pleather and feel good and close tight.


I like the sound a lot and need just a bit more damping, because the mid bass is too prominent,
btw: I ordered more of the drivers :)
 
Oct 9, 2012 at 5:15 PM Post #20,562 of 27,156
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The first batch of dipoles arrived!

Fantastic! If you have a spare set to send me, just let me know by PM your paypal address and the total amount. :)
 
As for damping, my conclusions after lots of unsuccessful transplant and a very successful one, is that these drivers need close sealed cups, with tiny damped bass ports and flat pads with smallish holes. This way you can preserve deep bass (and they have some, definitely enough) and clean up midbass too. Mines are really great phones.
 
Oct 9, 2012 at 5:54 PM Post #20,563 of 27,156
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Glad to hear our Euro contingent is still able to kick it SFI style. Kapok as a damping material? Where do you get kapok fibre from in the present day?

I take it from a zafu that is filled a little too much.
Quote:
Fantastic! If you have a spare set to send me, just let me know by PM your paypal address and the total amount. :)
 
As for damping, my conclusions after lots of unsuccessful transplant and a very successful one, is that these drivers need close sealed cups, with tiny damped bass ports and flat pads with smallish holes. This way you can preserve deep bass (and they have some, definitely enough) and clean up midbass too. Mines are really great phones.

looks as it is worth to order the sony can?!
and yes, the bass is well extended to around 30 Hz. but it seems to get more linear somewhere around 45 Hz.
 
- the drivers, that I have ordered additionally are reserved for you and kalbee and others in the forum :)
 
Oct 9, 2012 at 9:22 PM Post #20,564 of 27,156
Quote:
Fantastic! If you have a spare set to send me, just let me know by PM your paypal address and the total amount. :)
 
As for damping, my conclusions after lots of unsuccessful transplant and a very successful one, is that these drivers need close sealed cups, with tiny damped bass ports and flat pads with smallish holes. This way you can preserve deep bass (and they have some, definitely enough) and clean up midbass too. Mines are really great phones.


I agree on that. Ludoo what's your preferred size bass port?   Also what would you say is the easiest size cup space with that 1 or 2 or 3 times the driver size?
 
 
And what the heck is Kapok and where does one get it?  Maybe i should have read further before typing this.  Boy that's sure interesting seems to be one of the up and coming new alternative fibers.
 
Oct 10, 2012 at 1:38 AM Post #20,565 of 27,156
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- the drivers, that I have ordered additionally are reserved for you and kalbee and others in the forum :)

 
:)
 
Quote:
I agree on that. Ludoo what's your preferred size bass port?   Also what would you say is the easiest size cup space with that 1 or 2 or 3 times the driver size?

 
On my Sonys I used a .5 mm drill bit to drill 3 very small holes in the rear. I did not experiment with sizes, but once damped they worked very well. As for cup size, the Sony are pretty thin, I'd say there's 1/2 a driver thickness behind them and some space around. The only things I were careful with were sealing, keeping the driver as close to the ear as possible, and trying a fw damping schemes.
 

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