Grado modders go Magnum

[fleasbaby]

...agreed.

 

[hyper8]

For those of you guys using Canare quad cable, are you using l-4e6s? Thanks

 

[chinook9]

  For those of you guys using Canare quad cable, are you using l-4e6s? Thanks

That's the one I have used a couple of times.  Quite cost effective.

 

[marts30]

Anywhere to buy the metal headbands for grado? Seems like such a waste to buy a whole headphone just to use the metal headband out of it!

 

[hyper8]

I'm trying to solder the cable to the solder tab but the solder isn't sticking on to it. The solder tab has some sort of layer on it that prevents solder from sticking to it. Does anybody have any suggestions? Thank you

 

[Kamakahah]

I'm trying to solder the cable to the solder tab but the solder isn't sticking on to it. The solder tab has some sort of layer on it that prevents solder from sticking to it. Does anybody have any suggestions? Thank you

Try cleaning it with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip to remove and unwanted build up. Then, pick up some flux to use. Also, try tining the solder point with a small layer of solder before trying to solder the wire.

 

[hyper8]

Try cleaning it with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip to remove and unwanted build up. Then, pick up some flux to use. Also, try tining the solder point with a small layer of solder before trying to solder the wire.

I tried that. However, everytime solder meets in contact with the solder pad, it produces this "sticky" residue that doesn't allow the solder to stick onto the pad. I am using Cardas Quad Eutetic Solder

 

[hyper8]

Here is an image of the residue that keeps coming back
 

 

[fleasbaby]

  Here is an image of the residue that keeps coming back
 

 
I redid my build tonight with my Magnum X drivers and my first pair of home-made cups...well, not cups, a pair of inner sleeves. Next project, full woody cups....I ran into the same issue with the solder. Pooped my pants thinking I had burned off the pad...not so. A little perseverance, and running my solder from the patch the voice coil runs to (I know, I was scared $h1tl355 I would burn it out too...) and I got everything set.
 
Not the greatest solder job of my life, but it works (that's foam tape around the drivers you see)...
 

 

[hemipowered007]

I really, at some point before im "done" here, need to get another set of mags, hopefully v4 this time. I miss them, they were special.

 

[sling5s]

Anyone interested in some grade magnum: turbulent mahogany cups and driver.  they are up for sale

 

[wje]

  I tried that. However, everytime solder meets in contact with the solder pad, it produces this "sticky" residue that doesn't allow the solder to stick onto the pad. I am using Cardas Quad Eutetic Solder

 
I realize I'm responding a bit late, but wanted to ask if you were using soldering flux?  Normally, this works to clean the surface properly so the solder will stick. Additionally, I'm not sure of the specific soldering iron you are using.  However, the $13 irons, should not be considered.  They don't have a ceramic element and would perform poorly.  The ceramic element is better at keeping a good heat level, where the cheaper irons, you have to wait a minute between each solder connection so that heat can build back up for sufficient use.  Finally, another point to consider - the tip of the soldering iron.  Are you able to "tin" the tip so that the solder will stick to the tip, or does it quickly roll off without providing a thin layer of molten solder on the tip itself.  
 
If you have a good-quality iron and you find that the solder is not sticking to the tip, the tip itself could have reached the point where it has to be replaced.  Normally when this occurs, the iron doesn't maintain heat correctly and the tip had been used too many times - to the point it's no longer effective.
 
Best of luck if you are still working through this situation with the driver and the solder pad.

 

[hyper8]

   
I realize I'm responding a bit late, but wanted to ask if you were using soldering flux?  Normally, this works to clean the surface properly so the solder will stick. Additionally, I'm not sure of the specific soldering iron you are using.  However, the $13 irons, should not be considered.  They don't have a ceramic element and would perform poorly.  The ceramic element is better at keeping a good heat level, where the cheaper irons, you have to wait a minute between each solder connection so that heat can build back up for sufficient use.  Finally, another point to consider - the tip of the soldering iron.  Are you able to "tin" the tip so that the solder will stick to the tip, or does it quickly roll off without providing a thin layer of molten solder on the tip itself.  
 
If you have a good-quality iron and you find that the solder is not sticking to the tip, the tip itself could have reached the point where it has to be replaced.  Normally when this occurs, the iron doesn't maintain heat correctly and the tip had been used too many times - to the point it's no longer effective.
 
Best of luck if you are still working through this situation with the driver and the solder pad.

Thanks for your help wje. I wasn't able to solder onto the driver. The issue I found was that there was some residue on the solder pad area and no matter how much I cleaned it off, it still produced that residue when I went to solder. However, Jin at Turbulent Labs has sent me a replacement and I was able to solder the replacement drivers fine. I don't remember the specific soldering iron I am using. Also, I was using soldering flux and I am able to tin the tip of the solder.
 
The Magnum V5s sound excellent. The mids are very good and it sounds more refined compared to the SR-225i and SR-80i. It also sounds like it has tighter bass compared to the two. For my build, I used Cabillas GS1000 style cups, EarZonk L-cush, the Sony 7506 headband and Mogami W2534 sleeved in Paracord. 
 

 

[pdrm360]

Can someone please compare sound of the Turbulent X headphone driver with other original Grado's drivers? 

What improvements should be expect by replacing the drivers?

Also, are the Turbulent X and Magnum v5 same? 
 
Thanks!

 

[hemipowered007]

yes turbulent-x = magnum v5