Oct 13, 2016 at 9:47 PM Post #4,263 of 4,997


V7 Shapeways build with the headband taken from the wood V4 pair I have. An older, original pair of Magnums is in the background. I think I'll upgrade those to V7 drivers at some point too.
 
Oct 14, 2016 at 12:12 AM Post #4,265 of 4,997
  What version are the full Magnums in the Aluminum? If they are V4 - I'd say keep them like that IMO. They are special in that form!

 
V5 IIRC. I have V4 drivers floating around somewhere.
 
Oct 14, 2016 at 2:01 PM Post #4,266 of 4,997
Broke my first driver! I was attempting to 'liberate' an SR80 driver and the little board with the contacts kinda popped off. Popping it back on does nothing and I can't get any continuity when I check the driver with a multimeter (without the board attached). Have I killed it? I feel as though I've killed it. I only owned them for about an hour!
 
Oct 14, 2016 at 3:40 PM Post #4,267 of 4,997
Broke my first driver! I was attempting to 'liberate' an SR80 driver and the little board with the contacts kinda popped off. Popping it back on does nothing and I can't get any continuity when I check the driver with a multimeter (without the board attached). Have I killed it? I feel as though I've killed it. I only owned them for about an hour!

 
Yes it's dead now,
frown.gif

The two smaller solder points on the PCB is where the ends of the voice coil are connected.
 
Oct 15, 2016 at 1:37 AM Post #4,268 of 4,997
Broke my first driver! I was attempting to 'liberate' an SR80 driver and the little board with the contacts kinda popped off. Popping it back on does nothing and I can't get any continuity when I check the driver with a multimeter (without the board attached). Have I killed it? I feel as though I've killed it. I only owned them for about an hour!

welcome to the club
if i had a nickel for everytime i did that
(i'd have like 20 cents!)
first time it happened on an old pink driver
them little circuit boards can just pop right off
 
it connects to the voice coil with 2 wires the width of a human hair
pretty much impossible to fix
 
Oct 15, 2016 at 9:49 AM Post #4,269 of 4,997
You can fix it if you have good eyes, a steady hand, and the patience of a saint. I did it with an old Sennheiser driver that had a broken lead off their spring connector.

You have to carefully unwind enough of that super thin wire to reach your board, scrape or burn off the insulation coating, tin the end, heat the solder pad and insert the tinned end of the wire into the molten solder, holding it steady while you remove the heat and it sets up. The amount of wire unwrapped won't really affect the sound, and if you do both wires, it will remain balanced, not that that micro amount of inductance or impedance would matter. Besides, what do you have to lose? It's toast now anyway. Just remember to use a low wattage iron. You don't want to melt the base.
Good luck. If it doesn't work first try, unwrap a bit more and try again. At the worst, you'll learn how to work with fine wires.
 
Oct 19, 2016 at 9:37 AM Post #4,271 of 4,997
...experimented a little this morning in the workshop....had some spare SR325 outer shells, and a scrap of Bubinga. Made these:
 

 
I was worried about the ring holding together because it was so thin and delicate, but Bubinga is a nice hard, dense wood, and it survived being made, glued in, and later sanded and finished.
 
@Currawong, a long time ago I saw you asking about this sort of thing. I'd be happy to help for the cost of postage. Drop me a PM if you're still keen.
 
Oct 19, 2016 at 12:11 PM Post #4,272 of 4,997
  ...experimented a little this morning in the workshop....had some spare SR325 outer shells, and a scrap of Bubinga. Made these:
 

 
I was worried about the ring holding together because it was so thin and delicate, but Bubinga is a nice hard, dense wood, and it survived being made, glued in, and later sanded and finished.
 

nice
bubinga!
 

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