Grado modders go Magnum
Aug 6, 2012 at 11:25 AM Post #1,711 of 4,994
I have some wooden cups and magnum drivers which I will be cabling one of these days and as I'm new to this would like to ask...what do you use to stop the cable from pulling on the soldered joints once you run it through the hole in the cups? Is there something you put in the hole to take the pressure off or do you make a knot in the cable?
 
 
 
 

 
Aug 6, 2012 at 11:30 AM Post #1,712 of 4,994
I use a zip tie on the cable inside the cup. Make sure to leave some strain relief.
 
Quote:
I have some wooden cups and magnum drivers which I will be cabling one of these days and as I'm new to this would like to ask...what do you use to stop the cable from pulling on the soldered joints once you run it through the hole in the cups? Is there something you put in the hole to take the pressure off or do you make a knot in the cable?
 
 
 
 

 
Aug 6, 2012 at 11:46 AM Post #1,713 of 4,994
I have some wooden cups and magnum drivers which I will be cabling one of these days and as I'm new to this would like to ask...what do you use to stop the cable from pulling on the soldered joints once you run it through the hole in the cups? Is there something you put in the hole to take the pressure off or do you make a knot in the cable?






I use zip ties too.

I like the simplicity of these wood cups. Very nice! :wink:
 
Aug 6, 2012 at 1:23 PM Post #1,714 of 4,994
Quote:
I use zip ties too.
I like the simplicity of these wood cups. Very nice!
wink.gif

 
They look like a pair possibly made by Marty.  Marty had revised some of his machining of the wood to make a larger opening on the outside of the cup.  The only downside was that when it came to working with the grill screen, one had to be quite careful in cutting the material, because there was just a very tiny 3/16" lip on the inside of the cup to bond the screen to.  If the screen was cut too small, it would be revealed in the opening.   If it were cut too large, it would be hard to install in the cup.  Needless to say, it took plenty of patience when carefully cutting and trimmng the screen for an accurate fit.
 
After owning both types of cups, I have the opinion that I like a slightly smaller hole.  Having that slight bit of extra room for the wooden lip to mount the screen is nice, plus, I'm not sure of the actual sound benefit with a larger opening on the outer side of the cup.
 
Aug 9, 2012 at 5:44 PM Post #1,717 of 4,994
Quote:
Is there a thread where those with woodies show pictures of their work?
 


Not really, most have their own sites you can find by googling.
Martin Custom Audio
Headphone Lounge
Headphile
are three good places to start, there is a thread of makers, but those three are about the only reliable ones still around.
 
Aug 9, 2012 at 9:25 PM Post #1,718 of 4,994
It looks like Vibro Labs / HeadphoneLounge has a revised version of their cups hitting the streets in a week or so.  Meanwhile, some preview shots have been posted in the blog.
 

 
 
 
Source of information and more details: http://vibrolabs.com/2012/08/vibro-vintage-final-prototype-v3-0/
 
To me, this style of cup cut looks a lot like the offerings from Cabillas last year.  But, in this case, getting the cups in Honduran Mahogany only adds to the beauty of the offering.  I'm starting to pan-handle on the local street corners, so I can get a pair of Magnums going again.  
basshead.gif

 
Aug 10, 2012 at 3:06 PM Post #1,719 of 4,994
As I already found some I’d really like to see what the other Magnum owners are using.
I just really like the look of the wood cups.
 
I can’t wait to cable these things so I can hear the difference between my SR60I’s and the magnums.
 
Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 AM Post #1,720 of 4,994
Quote:
As I already found some I’d really like to see what the other Magnum owners are using.
I just really like the look of the wood cups.
 
I can’t wait to cable these things so I can hear the difference between my SR60I’s and the magnums.

Having had both in my possession at one point, I can tell you there is a night and day difference.  The Magnums are so much more refined, and quite a bit darker.
 
Aug 11, 2012 at 9:13 AM Post #1,721 of 4,994
Quote:
Having had both in my possession at one point, I can tell you there is a night and day difference.  The Magnums are so much more refined, and quite a bit darker.

 
Very, very true.  The SR-60 driver is a "starter" driver in the Grado lineup.  Until the Magnums became available, I really liked using the SR-225 series.  However, when the Magnum v.4 drivers became available, it was "game over" for using any additional Grado-built drivers in my mods.
 
Aug 12, 2012 at 12:44 PM Post #1,722 of 4,994
I found the SR60’s fatiguing when I first bought them, but after many mods I began to really like them. One infamous Headfi-er said…. anything you like in the high end Grado’s…you can build in the low end ones, but who can say if he wasn’t just blowing hot air?
 
Aug 12, 2012 at 12:49 PM Post #1,723 of 4,994
Quote:
I found the SR60’s fatiguing when I first bought them, but after many mods I began to really like them. One infamous Headfi-er said…. anything you like in the high end Grado’s…you can build in the low end ones, but who can say if he wasn’t just blowing hot air?


The drivers are doped differently as you move up the line-up. And no amount of moding can yield a magnum.
 
Aug 12, 2012 at 4:01 PM Post #1,724 of 4,994
Quote:
The drivers are doped differently as you move up the line-up. And no amount of moding can yield a magnum.

 
Essentially correct.  It's nearly impossible to turn anything into something near a Magnum.  But, on the other hand, I do believe, the SR-60 drivers are those that benefit the most from opening a few holes at the back of the driver to enhance the bass a bit. When I would get to the SR-225i level, I'd become quite hesitant to do such an activity.
 

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