It's a combination of artefacts from picture stitching, lousy soldering, and unskillful fixing of issue from
Post #317 
Now looks much better. I invested in soldering stuff after buying the Z4. I'm graduated optoelectronic, but the last time I had a soldering iron in hand 20 years ago
Indeed, but is in line with the board circuit (look at the mirror layout of O1622 on the right side).
A few general words about my ZiShan Z4: Unfortunately, my version of PCB was crapy, with lots of cold solder joints, bent 5th leg of the left OP275G, etc. The QC at the ZiShan facility is very poor if any at all

. My diagnosis was the too cold furnace in the brazing process or too aggressive temperature profile in the brazing process.
So, I decided to resolder all of the IC chips on the board (including ES9038) and heating to 380oC (5-10sec annealing with AMTECH RMA-223-UV flux) most of the joints in passive elements. I changed the power cable to a copper one and solder '+' terminal directly to the capacitor above the PCB power pads. After all, my ZiShan works flawlessly.
And of course, after work around with crappy buttons

I used Kapton tape as a spacer and isolation of micro sticks with buttons and a case.
Now, ZiShan Z4 is my favourite DAP!!!

Before I used mainly dongles (Shanling UA2, iBasso DC01 - still waiting for TempoTec E44), but it drains the battery quickly that I had to charge the phone twice a day. Now I like more my KZ AST... if I need a more warm sound, I use Tripowin x HBB Mele... for general listening, I love Mangird TEA.
Another issue relates to the nostalgic reminder of the first real DAP, the Sony NW-HD5 (I brought it back to life after ten years of lying in a drawer).