Woo Audio Amp Owner Unite
Jan 16, 2015 at 2:56 PM Post #32,221 of 42,298
  From the Lunatic fringe !
 

 
I thought I was the only one that used that phrase; you, however, have *earned* your Lunatic Fringe Head-Fi Merit Badge 
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Jan 16, 2015 at 3:03 PM Post #32,222 of 42,298
lol, was on the phone to Matt who was trying to explain to me how to use a multimeter to test for continuity - no chance my end, so dutifully swapped the fuses around and yep I "think" they sound better in one direction.
 
More info 'cough' here http://www.synergisticresearch.com/featured/sr-quantum-fuses-review/
 
So badge accepted - Thank you 
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Jan 16, 2015 at 9:01 PM Post #32,223 of 42,298
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Jan 16, 2015 at 9:50 PM Post #32,225 of 42,298
Jan 16, 2015 at 10:30 PM Post #32,227 of 42,298
 
  Video sucks though lol

Didn't want to mention it, but the video is actually creepy in a weird way!!!
Really kills the awesome song...that was the first time I saw the video (and wish I didn't) and the last time. 
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 I have Red Rider in my music library.

It is very weird ,had to close my eyes lol. I have this Tom Cochran album   .                                                                                                                                                                                   
 
Jan 16, 2015 at 10:35 PM Post #32,228 of 42,298
  It is very weird ,had to close my eyes lol. I have this Tom Cochran album   .                                                                                                                                                                                   

I'll have to check it out, any good?
 
Jan 17, 2015 at 2:34 AM Post #32,229 of 42,298
  E L R O G!  
 
They arrived today.  Loaded them up into the WA5LE, fired it up and tested some Stevie Ray on the HD800s.
 
Previous tubes:  EML 300B Mesh - EML 5U4G Mesh - (Sylvania 6SN7 / or TII 181s) paired w/ HD800.
 
Immediately I noted a huge jump in bass quantity over the EML.  I also noted less detail on the bottom.  I supposed adding this much bass quantity is by default going to muddy up the bass a little.  Tradeoffs.  It's a bit like that "loudness" button your buddy warned you to leave off, got somehow pressed by accident.  It's a cool sound that I'm actually going to have to adjust to a bit.  Assuming things will tighten up a bit as the tubes burn in.
 
I also noted a wider soundstage through the midrange to upper midrange.  It stood out to me right away-- so there's gotta be some sort of change there.  
 
The Elrogs don't drop any detail on the top end.  Very composed.  Impressive.
 
Overall, I'd call the sound more "full", more musical, composed.  It's just a bit more in every area (the joke here is "But these go to eleven!").  I want to swap back to the Sylvania 6SN7 later tonight.  The 181s have a bit of an edge on them.  I'm curious how the Elrogs behave with a slightly mellower power tube.  
 
Lots of goodness going on.  Want to be clear, the EML Mesh 300B is a damn good tube-- on first listen, the Elrogs are just a cut above.  Nothing to fear.
 

 

 
congratulations!  Beautiful amp and tubes.  
 
Jan 17, 2015 at 6:52 AM Post #32,230 of 42,298
I've been following the descriptions of the Elrog & Takatsuki 300B's with great interest (and envy :smile:); I'm soon going to 'treat' myself to a pair of new 300B's and it will be either Elrog or Takatsuki.

I listen to lots of female vocals, jazz etc and welcome more comparisons. I've gleaned that the Takatsuki may be slightly preferable to me (plus somewhat readily available from Japan), but the Elrog is a few hundred bucks cheaper.......decisions, decisions!
 
Jan 17, 2015 at 5:38 PM Post #32,231 of 42,298
I will be writing a detailed comparison of the Elrog's and Takatsukis in the next couple of weeks. I want to let both sets of valves settle down and get some time on them as they deserve that respect before reaching any strong conclusions.
 
I will also be comparing them with some commentary on the respective rectifiers Takatsuki 274B and the Mullard metal base and the mix and matching of both. 
 
My system has had a lot of recent changes with the addition of the Shunyata power gear as well as other bits and pieces which all require proper burn in to reach their respective sonic stability. The last couple of weeks have seen some major changes in the sound due to the state of flux equipment is in, sometimes it sounds very good and other times it is going through a period of burn in instability. 
 
Both the Takatsukis and Elrogs have come a long way and one thing I am confident in saying is that IMHO they are the cream of modern valves available right now. For instance the Takatsuki 274B now seems to work very well with the Elrog whereas previously they sounded like a mismatch. 
 
So stayed tuned fellow tube aficionados.
 
Jan 17, 2015 at 6:44 PM Post #32,232 of 42,298
Question about a tube with a loose base: I received a TS 6520 yesterday with had what appears to be a loose base. That is, I can wiggle the glass bottle portion a little bit. Obviously not ideal, but does that mean the tube is bad and unusable?
 
I cannot observe anything being broken, but maybe something is under the base portion. How would I be able to tell if the vacuum seal is gone, just looking at the tube?
 
Sorry if these are obvious questions, but I am nervous that I will damage my amp if I (carefully) insert the tube and try it out. Do I need to be ready with a fire extinguisher if I go for it 
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Jan 17, 2015 at 6:53 PM Post #32,233 of 42,298
The loose base is a portent of potential issues down the track. I have recently had a tube go that started off with a slightly loose base, of course rolling it in and out doesn't help.

If the vacum is affected you usually see white deposits forming at the top of the tube near or above the mica. It will also sound bad and will fail.

If I suspect a problem with a tube I normally turn on the amp with volume set to zero and listen through my headphones for signs of noise and other nasties, and be ready to switch off immediately if you hear them. Worst case scenario it will blow the amps fuse, the only valves that on failure cause my Amps to blow fusee are usually the rectifiers. Also don't leave it on unsupervised until you are sure it is stable and fully functional.
 
Jan 17, 2015 at 11:54 PM Post #32,234 of 42,298
Question about a tube with a loose base: I received a TS 6520 yesterday with had what appears to be a loose base. That is, I can wiggle the glass bottle portion a little bit. Obviously not ideal, but does that mean the tube is bad and unusable?

I cannot observe anything being broken, but maybe something is under the base portion. How would I be able to tell if the vacuum seal is gone, just looking at the tube?

Sorry if these are obvious questions, but I am nervous that I will damage my amp if I (carefully) insert the tube and try it out. Do I need to be ready with a fire extinguisher if I go for it :veryevil:


I've used a RCA 6SN7 Greyglass for ages with a loose base. No problems here. Evidently you can fix the loose base by using clear nail polish applied to the join. When it dries it bonds. For mine I don't care. It is okay how it is.
 
Jan 18, 2015 at 1:18 AM Post #32,235 of 42,298
The loose base is a portent of potential issues down the track. I have recently had a tube go that started off with a slightly loose base, of course rolling it in and out doesn't help.

If the vacum is affected you usually see white deposits forming at the top of the tube near or above the mica. It will also sound bad and will fail.

If I suspect a problem with a tube I normally turn on the amp with volume set to zero and listen through my headphones for signs of noise and other nasties, and be ready to switch off immediately if you hear them. Worst case scenario it will blow the amps fuse, the only valves that on failure cause my Amps to blow fusee are usually the rectifiers. Also don't leave it on unsupervised until you are sure it is stable and fully functional.

 
I've used a RCA 6SN7 Greyglass for ages with a loose base. No problems here. Evidently you can fix the loose base by using clear nail polish applied to the join. When it dries it bonds. For mine I don't care. It is okay how it is.

 
Good to hear... no visible white deposits forming on the glass, so damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!
 
I gingerly replaced the Tung-Sol 5998 with my loosy-goosy Tung-Sol 6520. So far, so good. Burns bright and without any sound artifacts I can hear (as opposed to the TS 5998 that was picking up RFI w/ a slight hum and occasional buzzing).
 
My initial reaction: this is a really lush sounding tube, with good power and exceptional bass (like, wow...).
 
That said, I'm burning it in with new music I've never heard before (FKA twigs "LP1"), so I'll have to follow-up with familiar tracks.
 
Thanks, guys, for the advice! A long night of listening ahead of me...
 

 

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