[K3cT]

Quote:

Thanks for the responses. I actually already sold the 2050 set, so there will be no direct comparison in the future. I have a Pioneer SX-950 on the way in, so I am thinking about buying a WEE for the amp. If there is a better alternative in the $500 dollar range I am all ears. I figured eventually I would buy a WES, BH, etc, along with the 009, or whatever the top of the line is at the time. For now I am in school, and can't spend that kind of money. If I sold the LCD-2, HE-6, and Lyr, I am looking at maybe $2200-2400 I would guess. So it definitely has to total under that, and I am not sure I want to sell it all either.
 
The Realiser is absolutely amazing, and I think everyone should try it, but that's a different story. I know that the higher you go up the Stax line, the better things get, but is it accuracy, or sound that gets better. Even typing the question it feels convoluted. I hope someone can understand what I am asking. Maybe the Omegas are more musical, but are they also less precise, and once again I am not asking if its frequency response graph properly reproduce sounds naturally, but does each frequency get hit quickly, properly and with authority. I guess to put it into a bad hypothetical. If all the Stax had a slat frequency response, so that every pair played them at the identical volume, which one would be best.
 
Well I have confused myself quite a bit with all the questions. I didn't want to make it seem earlier that I have to have lots of bass, but I don't want it to be absent, just that the headphones can produce it provided they are amped well and EQ'ed properly. I am leaning toward the 507 and WEE for now, but that is  not set in stone. I know what the lambdas feel like, and I have no idea where to try out a set of Omegas in New Orleans. Also Since I may buy the 009 in the future, maybe it would be nice to have the best omegas and lambdas. That may also be pointless. 
 
Thanks for all the help so far, and look forward to hearing some new thoughts. 

 
I thought any proper Stax amp would be better than a combination of a transformer and a speaker amp.
 
The SRM-1/MK2 is a great budget "proper" Stax amp and would do fine if you're specifically using it with the Lambdas.
 
In my honest opinion, just go for the Omegas if you have the budget as the leap from Lambda to Omega is MASSIVE. The SR404LE despite its weird quirks remains as the Lambda with the best technicalities that I've heard and even then, I thought the LCD2/HE6 pretty much trumps it in general. The O2s though, present another leap from the top-tier planar magnetic. Admittedly, I've only heard the O2s from a KGSS so I'm not sure how its performance if fed from a worse amplifier would compare to a well-driven LCD2/HE6. I can confirm that the eXstata can't drive the O2 MK1 (bass too flabby).
 

 

[Tidal]

What do I get when upgrading from 2050A to 3050A?
 
I just get the used 2050A and quite satisfied with the sound it produces. However, I have ordered a new 3050A from Japan last month and it's near its arrival. I'm now confused whether I should open the package and sell the 2050A or keep 2050A and sell the 3050A unopened as a brand new. I know that the more one pays, the better he gets. So this is all about cost performance. Also, I want to keep only one set, and budget got from selling are converted to a decent DAC as I have no DAC now.
 
I listen to Classical musics from DVD player right now (it has coax and optical output). I also have tons of tracks in my MacBook. So the DAC is inevitably essential, and it has to be with USB and coax or optical input.
 
In my opinion, 2050A has a great imaging, excellent mids and highs (I'm very impressed with Bach Violin Sonatas and Partitas. It produces a natural, abundant and realistic sounds). However, I would be glad if it gives wider dynamic range and larger stage. Would 3050A do that?

 

[MayaTlab]

Quote:

What do I get when upgrading from 2050A to 3050A?
 
In my opinion, 2050A has a great imaging, excellent mids and highs (I'm very impressed with Bach Violin Sonatas and Partitas. It produces a natural, abundant and realistic sounds). However, I would be glad if it gives wider dynamic range and larger stage. Would 3050A do that?

I did not try the same systems (SR 207 + 252S vs SR 507 + 323S) but I guess they're still similar.
 
Going from the first system to the second did give me :
 
- More bass control
- Slightly more bass impact
- More refined sound (less dry, wetter)
- More microdetails
- A little more dynamics
- Better imaging (though I still felt it to lack center focus and depth, seemms to be a common trait to lambdas). Soundstage might have been slightly wider.
 
Sound signature remained very close.
 
Of course the xx7 line up is different, so don't go too quickly to conclusions.

 

[reiserFS]

That's interesting, is there any noticable profit by doing so (besides the higher gain input level)?
 
Quote:

SRM-T1 can also be converted to balanced inputs. The circuit board layout is prepared for it.

 
 

 

[Knijsterbek]

Quote:

That's interesting, is there any noticable profit by doing so (besides the higher gain input level)?
 

Apart from the common balanced vs unbalanced discussion (better noise shielding, etc.):
 
If the source is a true balanced design, signal/sound quality could profit from it because 2 conversions are cut out (balanced to unbalanced and unbalanced to balanced) as all Stax amps are balanced designs.
 
With more "voltage swing", it should be better suited to drive the "more difficult to drive" phones.
 
As I have balanced sources, mine is still waiting to be converted to balanced (and to take ECC99 tubes, etc...), if I could only find the time.
 
 

 

[spritzer]

The only benefits from XLR inputs come with the higher input voltages and thus more voltage swing.  As for the ECC99's, I quite like them...

 

 

[reiserFS]

Thanks spritzer, just what I wanted to hear

 
Quote:

The only benefits from XLR inputs come with the higher input voltages and thus more voltage swing.  As for the ECC99's, I quite like them...

 

 
 

 

[Tidal]

Thank you MayaTlab, this seems to be 'slightly' different. Maybe it's better not to open the box...
 
Quote:

I did not try the same systems (SR 207 + 252S vs SR 507 + 323S) but I guess they're still similar.
 
Going from the first system to the second did give me :
 
- More bass control
- Slightly more bass impact
- More refined sound (less dry, wetter)
- More microdetails
- A little more dynamics
- Better imaging (though I still felt it to lack center focus and depth, seemms to be a common trait to lambdas). Soundstage might have been slightly wider.
 
Sound signature remained very close.
 
Of course the xx7 line up is different, so don't go too quickly to conclusions.

 

 

[nick n]

THIS...PLACE....IS...BAD.
( in a good way ).I would honestly like to think this is IT. No MORE purchases. I keep saying that.
 I am now the proud owner, assuming they get here, of a set of white SR-5's with an SRD-6 adapter. The final moments of the fleabay auction saw me sweating and had my heart racing worse than when I used to play Day of Defeat games in , well , clan matches . There I said it  hahah. Sad days indeed back then.
 
I wasn't sure if these are deserving of posting in the HIGH END AUDIO section, but rather than start some new thread like many do I put it here.
 Here are the pics I saved from the auction page to archive from that most excellent of ebay experiences.
 




The third image down shows the fraying on the cable ( good excuse to replace/mod eventually )  that is minor with no conductors exposed, and a pin was replaced on the earcup, which I can tweak later. Apparently they work just fine, and were just tested after not being used for a few years.
 
Honestly I feel like this isn't real, like i'm dreaming. Talk about nerd moment I need to post in that thread.
 As far as I read these have the thicker mylar @ 5 ?
 
Oh they came to a grand total before actual shipping , of $100 US.  For some reason they were in a strange part of eaby and didn't show up in the headphone search , maybe because it was typed with the brackets right beside the word =====> (headphones) Only a Stax search would find them I think..
 
Did I do well?  Tell me I did. tell me I did! haha
 I think I am dreaming.
 
 
 

 

[n3rdling]

Ya that's a pretty good price.  I love that little headphone, I still have mine.  Don't forget you need a speaker amp to power the SRD6.  Sometime down the line you can always get a normal bias Lambda to plug into that SRD6 and I bet you'll be pretty amazed.  

 

[nick n]

I have an EL84 tube AA-151 that has a preamp and amp in each channel. Should work fine I'd say. And a Sony SS.
 
"down the line you can always get a normal bias Lambda to plug into that SRD6 and I bet you'll be pretty amazed.  "
 
Sounds like a great idea. Thanks for the info on that option, this compatibility is all still new territory to me.

 

[n3rdling]

Yup.  It also happens to be the cheapest Lambda as well.  As for the SR5, I don't think you'll find a better headphone for the money.

 

[MayaTlab]

Quote:

Thank you MayaTlab, this seems to be 'slightly' different. Maybe it's better not to open the box...
 


 

Yes indeed, slightly is the word. BUT everything improves at least "slightly". When you go from one headphone to another, some thing might improve dramatically, others stagnate or even regress. I was impressed by the consistency of the current Stax line up as going for the model above is not a question of sound signature but just technicalities.
 
Of course do whatever you want with that box. It seems you're waiting for someone to tell you what to do or to unbalance your mood swings between opening it or not , but ultimately it is your decision.

 

[Sundance]

Does anyone know how to independently control the left and right channels on the Stax amps? I've noticed my SRM-717 has a diagram depicting that the knob provides this function. But how do I turn the knob for left or right? If this sounds confusing, the amp only has one knob but apparently one segment is for left and the other is for right. However, turning the knob provides balanced volume adjustment. What am I not seeing?

 

[Gu Sensei]

I have the 717 and have been playing with that just now. The big knob is actually two layered knobs- a front one and a back one. Look down at the top of the knob and you will see the two layers (I found a picture that shows this- see below). Hold the back thicker layer in place with the thumb and index finger from hand and you can turn the front thin layer independently with the other hand.