[svyr]

Always good to have an SRM1Mk2.  I haven't tried them with a 507 or 407 but they work well with most everything I have including the 404, Sigma/404 and are even usable with the 007A although not really recommended.  Plus they have a low bias socket for use with a classic old Stax phone.
 
 

507 works fine with SRM-1/mk2 (even great I'd say... Especially if you change the power caps to not mummyfied ones ) . I was using it until I upgraded to Transistoramp-v3. (I probably would've stayed with it too, since I ordered the latter when I was fixing the SRM-1/mk2 and things weren't looking up... just in case ). The only thing was it was a bit sensitive to ground loop issues

 

[WilCox]

Quote:

507 works fine with SRM-1/mk2 (even great I'd say... Especially if you change the power caps to not mummyfied ones

) . I was using it until I upgraded to Transistoramp-v3. (I probably would've stayed with it too, since I ordered the latter when I was fixing the SRM-1/mk2 and things weren't looking up... just in case

). The only thing was it was a bit sensitive to ground loop issues

I'm intrigued by your Transistoramp-v3.  Is it DIY only or is it now in production?
 
 

 

[svyr]

I'm intrigued by your Transistoramp-v3.  Is it DIY only or is it now in production?
 
 

Mine's similar to http://peter.family-rill.de/Blog/Neuer-Stax-TransistorAmp (same case,front panel, knob and boards, less inputs and outputs) both build by Peter Rill (you've linked to his blog just above and there's an email there to contact him as well. It looks like his builds are well known and respected among the EU and in particular German head-fi-ish forums). You can see from the pics, the quality with the prettier cases is indistinguishable from commercial builds (even with the other case, the board layout and wiring are evidently well done). You also have choice of inputs and outputs (e.g. there's a thread to one of his HybridAmp builds where there's a HE60 input, Jade input, Pro, Normal and I think Koss input (with the corresponding bias voltages)... (as far I know, also a choice of cases, sockets, front panel/engraving, etc)

The design is DIY and open http://www.high-amp.de/html/transistor_eng.html ... The +/-400 Volt PSU version is supposed to be good. (was told it's better than Exstata/stands up to KGSS?)

Peter has also posted the boards http://peter.family-rill.de/Projekte/Stax-HybridAmp-TransistorAmp/Downloads (I think he may have redesigned the layout and/or converted the jpegs to the board layout app format + maybe added the schematics for input switching and the PSUs)...


I've been meaning to post a review of my Transistor-amp V3, but unfortunately for me, my D100 died at the time and I had to return it for a replacement, MD11 is worthless as a line-out DAC and Audio-gd took months to actually make my new DAC (will have it next Mon). Haven't had any problems with it whatsoever though, and it wiped the floor with my SRM-1/mk2.

 

[TIMITS]

A Transistoramp is currently in the http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/545052/fs-hybridamp-v2-0-electrostat-amp-eu For Sale section but the seller has listed it as available to EU buyers only. At the time I was interested and searched the archives for information and saw that Svyr had one - he was kind enough to answer a pm I sent about the amp so it is good to see the information listed above.  I decided to find a simple solution while saving for a KGSS and this week have purchased a refurbished SRM-1/mk 2 pp.  Unfortunately it looks like the KGSS has now been discontinued so information on commercially available Stax amp alternatives is of great interest to me and I suspect many others.  
 
There is also another German website with references to electrostatic headphone amps and it also has a transistoramp and also something called a RTR400 - does anyone know anything about these also?  http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html

 

[svyr]

A Transistoramp is currently in the http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/545052/fs-hybridamp-v2-0-electrostat-amp-eu For Sale section but the seller has listed it as available to EU buyers only. At the time I was interested and searched the archives for information and saw that Svyr had one - he was kind enough to answer a pm I sent about the amp so it is good to see the information listed above.  I decided to find a simple solution while saving for a KGSS and this week have purchased a refurbished SRM-1/mk 2 pp.  Unfortunately it looks like the KGSS has now been discontinued so information on commercially available Stax amp alternatives is of great interest to me and I suspect many others.  
 
There is also another German website with references to electrostatic headphone amps and it also has a transistoramp and also something called a RTR400 - does anyone know anything about these also?  http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html

The one FS is the Hybridamp. (tuuubes and transistors). The post above also refers to the highamp de site, just scroll down a bit and the English info is there.

 

[Scottsmrnyc]

Sorry to interrupt or change the topic of this thread but I was curious if you can tell me what power cords you are using for the Stax SRM 007t and SRM007ta amplifiers?  Also are you plugging them directly into the electrical wall outlet or are they going into a surge or PPP type device?  What results do you find when if you are using a non stax stock power cord?  Thanks  Scottsmrnyc

 

[Sim1]

Quote:

Hi Sim1,  I use one of my McIntosh MX135s as a preamp with either of my Stax SRM 007t or SRM 007Ta amps. [...]

The McIntosh MX135 seems to be a real beast . Well, I use my SRM-007t with nice vingtage Yamaha C-4 when I want to listen to some rock. Tone control and high output level from preamp make O2 sound from 007t really juicy and with right impact even for heavy guitar music.
 

 

[Leonardo Drummond]

Hello everyone!
 
I'm sorry for going a bit off topic, but I didn't really want to start a new thread on this since I'm not going to buy anything at this moment.
 
I recently got an O2 MKI and an eXStatA (built by Sachu), and I think they sound fantastic. My source in my bedroom is a DacMagic, and as I run a second headphone rig as well I reckoned my first upgrade path should be replacing the DAC which is not really on par with the headphones. I might have a chance of listening to a 727A in July and that might change things, but right now, I'm considering a source replacement.
 
My budget is of around 1.300 dollars, and I don't mind buying used. Milos suggested vintage R2R as well as Parasound and Assemblage units. I prefer an overall neutral, balanced and refined sound. I tend to prefer a slightly warmer signature, but at the same time clarity and transparency is very important. What other options do you guys think I should look for?
 
Thanks in advance!

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Hello everyone!
 
I recently got an O2 MKI and an eXStatA (built by Sachu), and I think they sound fantastic. My source in my bedroom is a DacMagic, and as I run a second headphone rig as well I reckoned my first upgrade path should be replacing the DAC which is not really on par with the headphones. I might have a chance of listening to a 727A in July and that might change things, but right now, I'm considering a source replacement.
 
My budget is of around 1.300 dollars, and I don't mind buying used. Milos suggested vintage R2R as well as Parasound and Assemblage units. I prefer an overall neutral, balanced and refined sound. I tend to prefer a slightly warmer signature, but at the same time clarity and transparency is very important. What other options do you guys think I should look for?

The DacMagic really isn't too great, and it's a good idea to upgrade. $1300 can go pretty far in the used market, and that would probably be my suggestion. One option would be to do what I just did and buy an EAD DSP-7000 Mk 3. It's a CS8412/dual PCM63P-K based 20-bit R2R solid state DAC, with some EAD jitter reduction special sauce thrown in. The Mk 3 version added the PMD100, and is definitely the one to get. It sells for around $450 or so, and even in original factory condition it will mop the floor with the DacMagic. Rather than leave it like that though, take another $500-800, send it to Noble Electronics (run by former EAD engineers) and have all of the upgrades done.
 
You should also consider having any other 10+ year old R2R DAC re-capped if you want to go that route. Another solid vintage DAC is the Theta Gen V, which you can typically find for $1200-1300. The Gen Va usually runs closer to $1500, but owners may be willing to discount a bit. If you want something more modern, the Bel Canto DAC-3 is regularly available in your price range. Some new options would be the W4S, Burson, and Anedio.
 
What's your transport? That could also be due for an upgrade.
 

 

[Knijsterbek]

Quote:

Sorry to interrupt or change the topic of this thread but I was curious if you can tell me what power cords you are using for the Stax SRM 007t and SRM007ta amplifiers?  Also are you plugging them directly into the electrical wall outlet or are they going into a surge or PPP type device?  What results do you find when if you are using a non stax stock power cord?  Thanks  Scottsmrnyc

I consider mains supply as very important as it all starts with electrons coming "out of the wall" (unless battery powered...).
For my main system:
- Dedicated audio group with audio grade fuse
- Shielded mains cable between the "fuse box" and the the wall outlet
- Isolator transformer
- Audio grade power strip/box with 8 x Schuko (Europe)
- Power regenerators for source, pre-amp and headphone amp (turns AC mains into DC and creates (by analog way) a clean and stable 230V sine wave out of it . These are a kind of PPP devices, but of a high quality albeit lower power max so not suited for power amps.
- Audio components (I have Stax SRM-T1, Stax SRM-1/Mk2 P.P. and Stax SRM-727II headphone amps)
 
All connections made with thick and highly shielded mains cables, not all the same types.
I mainly use the Kemp Power Reference SOTA. The SOTA has 9 strands inside, has 11 shieldings and has shielded Furutech connectors. In my setup, they make a big difference with the same cable with non shielded connectors.

What is the difference with the standard Stax power cords? Always hard to describe as it is subjective, but to me it's like the sound opens up, becomes more live (or alive). No harshness or bloom but transparent and in control, not mechanical but fluid, etc...I get pulled into the music while listening.
Returning to the standard power cords is like the curtains close...
As I said, this is highly subjective and can differ from one setup to another. In the ideal situation, your set is already "in balance" so you don't need certain tweaks to "alter" the sound (like some say of silver that it "adds" something that certain setups can benefit from).
Best is to try for yourself. A good dealer will always be willing to lend a few power cords for experimenting.
 

 

[Leonardo Drummond]

Quote:

The DacMagic really isn't too great, and it's a good idea to upgrade. $1300 can go pretty far in the used market, and that would probably be my suggestion. One option would be to do what I just did and buy an EAD DSP-7000 Mk 3. It's a CS8412/dual PCM63P-K based 20-bit R2R solid state DAC, with some EAD jitter reduction special sauce thrown in. The Mk 3 version added the PMD100, and is definitely the one to get. It sells for around $450 or so, and even in original factory condition it will mop the floor with the DacMagic. Rather than leave it like that though, take another $500-800, send it to Noble Electronics (run by former EAD engineers) and have all of the upgrades done.
 
You should also consider having any other 10+ year old R2R DAC re-capped if you want to go that route. Another solid vintage DAC is the Theta Gen V, which you can typically find for $1200-1300. The Gen Va usually runs closer to $1500, but owners may be willing to discount a bit. If you want something more modern, the Bel Canto DAC-3 is regularly available in your price range. Some new options would be the W4S, Burson, and Anedio.
 
What's your transport? That could also be due for an upgrade.
 

Thank you so much for your suggestions!! One thing I'm wondering though, do you think those vintage DACs with all the possible upgrades and maintenance done are better than what can be found new today for the same sort of money?
 
I'm currently using an iMac as a transport, it feeds the DacMagic via optical out. The vast majority of my music is in digital format, so upgrading the iMac unfortunately isn't an option now... I do use a PS3 as a CD transport when I want to listen to CDs, though!

 

[n3rdling]

I'd just recap the unit and do the opamp upgrade for the EAD stuff.  The rest of those mods don't seem very important unless you want balanced.

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Thank you so much for your suggestions!! One thing I'm wondering though, do you think those vintage DACs with all the possible upgrades and maintenance done are better than what can be found new today for the same sort of money?
 
I'm currently using an iMac as a transport, it feeds the DacMagic via optical out. The vast majority of my music is in digital format, so upgrading the iMac unfortunately isn't an option now... I do use a PS3 as a CD transport when I want to listen to CDs, though!

Depends on which vintage DAC you're talking about, but I think in most cases yes, they can outperform new DACs for similar money. Check out Computerparts' vintage DAC thread for much more in depth opinions on some of the great classic DACs. 
 
Rather than upgrade your iMac, consider adding an ART Legato USB > S/Pdif converter. That should provide a huge improvement over toslink straight from the computer, and it should handily beat the PS3's digital out as well. It only does 16/44, but with a vintage R2R DAC that's all you can use anyway.
 

 

[dukja]

I have a chance to get this spritzer restored srm-1 mkII PP.  According to the description, it seems to be no problem to be re-wired to 110V for US voltage.  I have PM spritzer but got not reply yet.  Can anyone here familiar with it may confirm that there is no problem to do so?  And maybe kindly point me to the links (i remember reading it somewhere in the past) to re-wire it for 110V.
 
Thanks a lot!

 

[svyr]

I have a chance to get this spritzer restored srm-1 mkII PP.  According to the description, it seems to be no problem to be re-wired to 110V for US voltage.  I have PM spritzer but got not reply yet.  Can anyone here familiar with it may confirm that there is no problem to do so?  And maybe kindly point me to the links (i remember reading it somewhere in the past) to re-wire it for 110V.
 
Thanks a lot!

follow the yellow brick rd. http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/550284/stax-srm-1-mkii-ver-c-100v-220v-voltage-change-question

I say - go for the buy. He added the mini-xlr and put in new caps, transistors, vol pot...