The Stax thread (New)
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Jul 9, 2009 at 1:28 PM Post #11,417 of 24,807
mmm... the bad things is that there is no way to listen them in italy. For something more which driver unit do you suggest ?
 
Jul 9, 2009 at 2:10 PM Post #11,419 of 24,807
You are really killing my wallet man
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Jul 9, 2009 at 2:36 PM Post #11,420 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Actually, my stock Stax SRD-7 Mk2 SB takes maybe only a couple of minutes longer than my SRD-7 Pro which charges them up instantly. It's my modded SRD-7 SB that takes several minutes to charge up pro bias phones - it was just normal bias, but now is pro and normal bias jacks and an HE Audio Jack.

PS: my SRD-7 Pro plugs into the wall, the other two are SB.



One thing to note is the music used to power the SB units matters. The bias supply needs at least 100VAC to power up completely and if you are listening to some quiet chamber stuff then there simply isn't enough. The power is drawn from the audio transformer secondary and then fed through another transformer but that may simply not be enough. Another thing to think about are the amps used. Some puny switching amps simply don't have a lot of voltage swing compared to Class A behemoths. A Krell Class A amp has roughly 200V P-P of swing and can drive the phones directly...
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Jul 9, 2009 at 3:16 PM Post #11,422 of 24,807
I bought the SR-Lamdas and SRD7-SB recently for sale. (I am in Mineeapolis, for the next two months, where it is impossible to move very far in any direction without running into a lake, leaving behind the all-hot, all-dusty and all-beige middle east for some cool, clean and green, not to mention the comparative ease of buying and selling.) I want to pair these with my older Audio Note OTO-se amp, which puts out 14 very nice watts in class A.

I like tubes behind the staxen and im hoping this will be enough to decently power the vintage LAMDA phones. I brought my other normal bias phones along, the 5nb golds, for comparison.

I am a Lamda Pro fan, which I use happily back there with my oo7t, not really perceiving the mid-range suckout people talk about. I am anxious to hear other lambdas esp the lambda nova sigs. Ive come a long way from the 34 electrets, which still sound good. I really like electrostatics!
 
Jul 9, 2009 at 3:37 PM Post #11,423 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by insyte /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What would be the best tube amp from the stax line to pair with an O2MkI?


That would be the SRM-T2.
For in-production units it would be the SRM-007tII (SRM-007tA).
 
Jul 9, 2009 at 4:13 PM Post #11,424 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by Duncan_McCloud /img/forum/go_quote.gif
You are really killing my wallet man
mad.gif



A used T1 can be a good budget choice (similar to the 006t only better parts but basically the same) but it might struggle a bit with a 4070 (Spritzer wrote it in the past that it sounds fine if it is used on medium volume).
 
Jul 9, 2009 at 4:25 PM Post #11,425 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by Keithpgdrb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hey, quick aside. what is a fair price for a Koss esp950 with no energizer? how bout with one? Assuming everything is in good shape.

No, I'm not the one selling it.



did I post this in the wrong place, or does no one really have an answer on this.
 
Jul 9, 2009 at 4:48 PM Post #11,427 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by padam /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Maybe 300$ and 400$ with the amp. But, you might have trouble sending it in if there is a warranty issue (squealing noises, etc.) so I wouldn't risk buying one without an amp if I were you.


Yeah, I have sent mine a week ago and the were asking for the whole package.
 
Jul 9, 2009 at 7:00 PM Post #11,430 of 24,807
Hey guys,

I have some older Stax SR-5. Recently I had some problems with them. I contacted Accutech and they can't repair them (they won't repair drive elements).

I've disassembled them and taken a peak. One driver has holes in the actual mylar film between the stators. Also, the same driver has the plastic on top ripped. It's not mylar, but rather crinkly clingy stuff. Any idea what that's for? Is it dampening, dust protection . . . ? It seems like it'd be safe to remove, but I rather not touch it till I'm sure of the function.

Anyway, does anyone know someone that would be able to repair the drivers? If not, any good supply for the proper micron PET Film/Mylar? Shouldn't be too hard of a fix.

Thanks!
 
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