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Apr 9, 2007 at 11:11 AM Post #1,442 of 24,807
My take is that if you enjoy the SR-001 MkII headphone and primarilly use it at home then consider using an [AK]Zip adapter out of a Stax SRDX-Pro. The amplifier upgrade really shows you what the SR-001 is capable of. Full size Stax are always a further upgrade option but if the headphones deliver for you with a different amp it saves having multiple headphones/earspeakers hanging around.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 11:17 AM Post #1,443 of 24,807
I'll make and send you photos if you really need them - PM me if you do - but the key component you require is a fine (ie ultra-small) jeweller's screw. The screw fits into the matching holes you have identified, joining the barrel and the end. This joining holds the metal strain relief into place. The native Stax screw has a 'hex key' end but any jeweller's screw that suits the holes will do the job.
Quote:

Originally Posted by _LN_ /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Could someone perhaps supply me with one or more good quality photos of the rear (cable side) of the female connector on the older round Stax extension cords? The thing is, I bought such an extension cord through eBay last year, and the female connector arrived broken, but the seller was unwilling to help. So now I'm trying to figure out the proper way to fix it.
BTW, there doesn't seem to be any permanent damage, it's just that the glue (?) securing the "barrel" of the connector to the flat end part with the holes in it, appears to have failed. There is some sort of thick metal "ring" clamped onto the cable, close to the end of the cable, which looks like it's supposed to be some kind of strain relief. But the hole in the cable side of the "barrel" appears to be too large to be able to hold the metal strain relief ring in place.
I temporarily fixed the connector using insulating tape, after it arrived, but that tape is coming loose again, so I'm looking for a more permanent fix...



 
Apr 9, 2007 at 11:48 AM Post #1,444 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by webbie64 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
My take is that if you enjoy the SR-001 MkII headphone and primarilly use it at home then consider using an [AK]Zip adapter out of a Stax SRDX-Pro. The amplifier upgrade really shows you what the SR-001 is capable of. Full size Stax are always a further upgrade option but if the headphones deliver for you with a different amp it saves having multiple headphones/earspeakers hanging around.



comfort is my major issue

even thought i've been listening to the srm/mkII for a few months now i just can't get comfortable with them.

what exactly does this adapter do?
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 12:22 PM Post #1,445 of 24,807
The SR-001 to Stax 5 Pin Pro adapter (http://apuresound.com/images/cables/h001.html) allows you to plug the SR-001 into a standard Stax Pro socket. I find this provides a higher quality than the standard SRM-001 (which is already better when you drive it with an external 4.5Volt battery supply over its internal 3V supply).

I empathise with your comfort issue - I find it takes a little time to adjust to the IEM approach, both Stax and others (I also use UM2s). For some it's just a matter of finding the right Stax tips (some also find different tips work with their left and right ears so don't just try 'matching' pairs) whilst for others it just never gets comfortable enough.

Rememebr that although the 202 and other 'Lambda' style ear speakers are more comfortable over the ears, they can generate a warmth/discomfort for some aftee being worn for a period of time. However, if comfort is the issue I'd suggest going to a local dealer and trying them for a period of time with a range of your best known tracks - even better if you are permitted to take and use your own source whilst trialling them.
wink.gif

Quote:

Originally Posted by terance /img/forum/go_quote.gif
comfort is my major issue

even thought i've been listening to the srm/mkII for a few months now i just can't get comfortable with them.

what exactly does this adapter do?



 
Apr 9, 2007 at 12:45 PM Post #1,446 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by webbie64 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The SR-001 to Stax 5 Pin Pro adapter (http://apuresound.com/images/cables/h001.html) allows you to plug the SR-001 into a standard Stax Pro socket. I find this provides a higher quality than the standard SRM-001 (which is already better when you drive it with an external 4.5Volt battery supply over its internal 3V supply).

I empathise with your comfort issue - I find it takes a little time to adjust to the IEM approach, both Stax and others (I also use UM2s). For some it's just a matter of finding the right Stax tips (some also find different tips work with their left and right ears so don't just try 'matching' pairs) whilst for others it just never gets comfortable enough.

Rememebr that although the 202 and other 'Lambda' style ear speakers are more comfortable over the ears, they can generate a warmth/discomfort for some aftee being worn for a period of time. However, if comfort is the issue I'd suggest going to a local dealer and trying them for a period of time with a range of your best known tracks - even better if you are permitted to take and use your own source whilst trialling them.
wink.gif



unfortunatly if i were to get that adapter it would not plug into my srm-001 amp would it?

is the 202 system that is over the ear the same drivers as the srm/mkII? ** just realized that the stax 202 system isn't a "system" it is just the earphones for 279 =/ **

thanks for the help
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 12:48 PM Post #1,447 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by terance /img/forum/go_quote.gif
unfortunatly if i were to get that adapter it would not plug into my srm-001 amp would it?


Remove the adaptor.

Quote:

is the 202 system that is over the ear the same drivers as the srm/mkII?


All Stax headphones with the 5-pin plug are completely intercompatible.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 12:49 PM Post #1,448 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Insulator rings? Under the PCBs in my ESP9's i have nylon spacers, and under them are brass washers.

The brass washers could probably stand to be cleaned up. Maybe I'll pass them over some 1500-grit sandpaper and grease them up with silicone so they won't corrode again.

I'm increasingly concerned about the fact that my E.9 has been mucked around with. There are a few wire junctions insulated with red tape, and there are two resistors standing on end that look like they were soldered in where maybe two of the old koss jumper wire posts were.

So, I am considering shelving the project until I can find an E.9 schematic or another transformer box.



There are insulator rings that go under the PCB to insulate the signal pins. You should also check the tiny wires that lead into the drivers to see if they are in contact with anything. The signal goes through the inner bolts so if they are tarnished that could be interfering.

The ESP9 is a pain to troubleshoot even if it's untampered with so I feel your pain. I would pick up a normal bias Stax adapter from ebay and convert the phones to the Stax standard. You could even put a switch in each cup so you can change them back in an instant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Increases with volume, loud transients sound awful, and seems to get worse the longer i listen in any given session.

Oddly, the right-side driver seems to get quieter along with the increase in distortion.



It sounds like a bias problem. There might be a short somewhere that causes the membrane to behave like this.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 12:57 PM Post #1,449 of 24,807
The SR-001s still plug into your SRM-001 (without the adapter) but when you use the adapter you can then plug them into any Stax 'Pro' outlet.

The drivers for the SR-001 are much smaller than any of the other drivers for the larger Earspeakers. However one distinct advantage of the smaller SR-001 drivers is that they don't generate as much external noise for those around your listening environment (e.g. my wife can be asleep alongside whilst I'm listening - something the larger drivers would make too much noise for).
Quote:

Originally Posted by terance /img/forum/go_quote.gif
unfortunatly if i were to get that adapter it would not plug into my srm-001 amp would it?

is the 202 system that is over the ear the same drivers as the srm/mkII? ** just realized that the stax 202 system isn't a "system" it is just the earphones for 279 =/ **

thanks for the help



 
Apr 9, 2007 at 2:05 PM Post #1,450 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif
There are insulator rings that go under the PCB to insulate the signal pins.


Hmm, i don't believe there was anything like that in my ESP9's. If they were tampered with, it was a long time ago, before the damping foam oxidized. I'll take some more pictures.

The only insulators in my esp9 earcups are more post-like than ring-like.

Quote:

You should also check the tiny wires that lead into the drivers to see if they are in contact with anything. The signal goes through the inner bolts so if they are tarnished that could be interfering.


So you're saying i should take the next step of disassembly, where i take apart the plastic sandwich that holds the driver? Otherwise I'm not sure where these tiny wires are.

I'm reluctant to do that, it sorta looks like it's integral to the driver, what with the edge of the membrane visible around the diameter.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 2:30 PM Post #1,451 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The ESP9 is a pain to troubleshoot even if it's untampered with so I feel your pain. I would pick up a normal bias Stax adapter from ebay and convert the phones to the Stax standard. You could even put a switch in each cup so you can change them back in an instant.


I thought the ESP-9's had a 600 volt bias.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 2:59 PM Post #1,452 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hmm, i don't believe there was anything like that in my ESP9's. If they were tampered with, it was a long time ago, before the damping foam oxidized. I'll take some more pictures.

The only insulators in my esp9 earcups are more post-like than ring-like.



Any and all picture would be very helpful to troubleshoot this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So you're saying i should take the next step of disassembly, where i take apart the plastic sandwich that holds the driver? Otherwise I'm not sure where these tiny wires are.

I'm reluctant to do that, it sorta looks like it's integral to the driver, what with the edge of the membrane visible around the diameter.



You can take a peek inside the driver and then clamp it together again and the glue should hold. It did so with my ESP6 and I did it numerous times to find the right spot for the replacement drivers. You could also measure the driver to see if there are any shorts inside it.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 3:02 PM Post #1,453 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by audiod /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I thought the ESP-9's had a 600 volt bias.


I've not been able to measure it yet but I have heard 450v from a number of sources. I debating whether or not I should sacrifice my set and connect it to a Pro bias terminal.
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 3:27 PM Post #1,454 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Any and all picture would be very helpful to troubleshoot this.


There are several pictures in some previous posts, but perhaps they don't show enough detail. I'll try to do some macro shots w/ the drivers assembled w/o damping material tonight.

Quote:

You can take a peek inside the driver and then clamp it together again and the glue should hold. It did so with my ESP6 and I did it numerous times to find the right spot for the replacement drivers. You could also measure the driver to see if there are any shorts inside it.


Yeah, that should be fairly easy. I'm guessing there shouldn't be an electrical connection between any two posts, right?

Does anybody know or have a simple diagram of the correct hookup of the esp9? If they have been tampered with, maybe the boards in the earcups aren't wired properly. I've been very careful to reassemble exactly the way they are in my pictures from the initial disassembly, but if that isn't correct . . .

Edit: Oh, and 600-volt bias sounds unlikely to me. The 0.1uf cap in the left earcup is probably for bias voltage, and it's only rated at 500 volts.

I'd offer to measure, but my set is highly questionable.

The ESP-950 is said to have 600v bias, which is touted to be the highest bias voltage out there. Couldn't possibly be true unless they are only referring to current production. Aren't some of the jecklins 900v?
 
Apr 9, 2007 at 3:46 PM Post #1,455 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
There are several pictures in some previous posts, but perhaps they don't show enough detail. I'll try to do some macro shots w/ the drivers assembled w/o damping material tonight.


That would be great. Then I can compare them to my fully functional pair and see if something is out of place.


Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yeah, that should be fairly easy. I'm guessing there shouldn't be an electrical connection between any two posts, right?

Does anybody know or have a simple diagram of the correct hookup of the esp9? If they have been tampered with, maybe the boards in the earcups aren't wired properly. I've been very careful to reassemble exactly the way they are in my pictures from the initial disassembly, but if that isn't correct . . .

Edit: Oh, and 600-volt bias sounds unlikely to me. The 0.1uf cap in the left earcup is probably for bias voltage, and it's only rated at 500 volts.

I'd offer to measure, but my set is highly questionable.

The ESP-950 is said to have 600v bias, which is touted to be the highest bias voltage out there. Couldn't possibly be true unless they are only referring to current production. Aren't some of the jecklins 900v?



There should be no connection inside the driver either from stator-stator or diaphragm-stator. A former owner could have put them together incorrectly and you are suffering from that. Those push connectors Koss used come off with way too little force for my liking.

Koss was always experimenting with crazy ideas but they were in turn very often barking up the wrong tree. Like the 5 stator - 2 diaphragm system they used in their speakers. Great idea in theory but it creates more problems then it solves. Same goes for the ESP6. Totally self contained system is a good idea but the resulting 800gr headphones aren't.

The Jecklins are around 1kv but they used speaker (RTR) midrange/tweeters as drivers so the extra bias wasn't really part of the design.
 
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