post your grado mods....
Dec 3, 2012 at 9:19 PM Post #2,566 of 8,992
Your right this unit has plenty of power for my phones that was another thing I didn't mention, I must be real careful with the volume. Also it is pretty flat and I do enjoy the signature, it's rich,warm and filling and very balanced. I use to use it for my vandersteen 2ci's, vertically bi-amped and I enjoyed it with that setup, and there was plenty of power for that. I think I'm on your side with your guess but, you know this audio stuff, it can be real addictive and I love it, so i'll probably end up at least trying some dedicated headphone amp for my own curiousity (you know what mean). Thank's for the info and opinion on my pre-amp, if and when I experiment i'll post it and give my opinion. Thank's.
 
Dec 3, 2012 at 9:22 PM Post #2,567 of 8,992
Quote:
Your right this unit has plenty of power for my phones that was another thing I didn't mention, I must be real careful with the volume. Also it is pretty flat and I do enjoy the signature, it's rich,warm and filling and very balanced. I use to use it for my vandersteen 2ci's, vertically bi-amped and I enjoyed it with that setup, and there was plenty of power for that. I think I'm on your side with your guess but, you know this audio stuff, it can be real addictive and I love it, so i'll probably end up at least trying some dedicated headphone amp for my own curiousity (you know what mean). Thank's for the info and opinion on my pre-amp, if and when I experiment i'll post it and give my opinion. Thank's.


Awesome. I am a college student, far away from my main setup. I built a head amp down here because I don't really have a big set up. I brought them home once with me and was really blown away by what came out of my Sansui 5000X (far more vintage than yours, but you get the point)
 
Dec 3, 2012 at 9:35 PM Post #2,568 of 8,992
Yeah, I just took out the owners manual on my pre-amp and just discovered that the phones jack is powered by it's own seperate amp, thats nice, so I know what you mean, Im glad to still own all of my vintage audio.
 
Dec 5, 2012 at 2:19 AM Post #2,572 of 8,992
Just finished the rod blocks. Some spare oak I had lying around, same texture as the distancer oak. Also did the shaft collar locks I saw in this thread

Just need to get my hands on a jmoney headband now!

 
Dec 5, 2012 at 11:12 AM Post #2,574 of 8,992
You have to seperate the drivers from the air chambers (use a blowdryer to heat the cups ) then once the glue gets hot pull them apart. Then on the back of the drivers there is a felt ring, under the felt there are  a series of holes going around the driver housing, If you hold the driver up to the light you will be able to see the indentations on the felt ring to where the holes are, take a pen tip and push it through the felt, make them in the same positions on each driver example, 12-6 o'clock 3-9 o'clock. I would try starting with1 to 2 holes and see how it sounds and then if you want more bass knock more holes. I learned this the hard way, I heard about this the hard way because I could not find anything explaing the process and drilled into the backs of the drivers between the holes that I did not see, and I drilled too many so I went to fill some of the holes with hot glue and it leaked onto the diaphrams and bonded them so they couldnt move anymore.
 
Dec 5, 2012 at 11:53 AM Post #2,575 of 8,992
Hey pointy, those cone props look really cool. Cant wait to see them when they're mad :D
 
Dec 6, 2012 at 1:20 AM Post #2,576 of 8,992
Just finished reading every single page of this thread. Now I'm wanting to do another set of wood cups for my SR-80i cans!!
 
I have some Zapote I already prepped for wood cups (cut out circular blocks to lathe), but I think if I do make another set of cups, I will do a full liberation of the drivers.
 
Dec 6, 2012 at 7:48 AM Post #2,577 of 8,992
Quote:
You have to seperate the drivers from the air chambers (use a blowdryer to heat the cups ) then once the glue gets hot pull them apart. Then on the back of the drivers there is a felt ring, under the felt there are  a series of holes going around the driver housing, If you hold the driver up to the light you will be able to see the indentations on the felt ring to where the holes are, take a pen tip and push it through the felt, make them in the same positions on each driver example, 12-6 o'clock 3-9 o'clock. I would try starting with1 to 2 holes and see how it sounds and then if you want more bass knock more holes. I learned this the hard way, I heard about this the hard way because I could not find anything explaing the process and drilled into the backs of the drivers between the holes that I did not see, and I drilled too many so I went to fill some of the holes with hot glue and it leaked onto the diaphrams and bonded them so they couldnt move anymore.


I've done that already. Maybe it has something to do do with amping (LD mkII)? or source (M-Audio Audiophile 2496)?, or it just the SR80i driver limits & it's time to get different Grado drivers?
 
Dec 6, 2012 at 8:15 AM Post #2,578 of 8,992
Quote:
I've done that already. Maybe it has something to do do with amping (LD mkII)? or source (M-Audio Audiophile 2496)?, or it just the SR80i driver limits & it's time to get different Grado drivers?

After I destroyed my 80's, I moved up to the alessandro ms2i's, definitly more bass much fuller,warmer,richer sound. On some some recording there was actually too much bass for my taste, I had to tone it down through my pre-amp tone controlls. (Didn't know you had already done this mod). I also don't use a headphone amp, I use a adcom pre-amp/tuner,  so I have no experience to direct you in a headphone amp's.
 
Dec 6, 2012 at 8:59 AM Post #2,579 of 8,992
...had a bonding experience with my 2-year-old daughter last night, and she sat and watched in fascination as I fully liberated my 225i drivers.
 
They're going to be slipped into a pair of Vintage Vibros, and get one of their black headbands as well...I suppose the next step is a new cable and Magnum drivers, and then I will be lurking on the "Grado Modders Go Magnum" thread :)....
 
Dec 6, 2012 at 10:27 AM Post #2,580 of 8,992
Hi Folks,
 
the actual headband of my SR80i's has come loose from the left side of my cans (the part that holds the actually can in place and has the L on it, y'know that bit) but does just slide back on as it's not cracked or snapped or anything.
 
 
Would there be any issue with just supergluing this back on? I've already pierced my drivers etc and do plan on changing the pads and maybe the cables at some point, but just wanted to check this silly little thing first.
 
Best get back to trying to suck the hair out of these things too!
 

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