post your grado mods....
May 29, 2012 at 3:34 AM Post #2,326 of 8,987
Quote:
I'm too scared to modify my MS Pro or MS2 past a quarter modded HD414 pad
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Chicken! 
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 It's actually not that scary once you get the cups apart though. Getting my cups apart was the most difficult part, as there was a crapload of glue in there.
 
May 29, 2012 at 3:36 AM Post #2,327 of 8,987
Quote:
Chicken! 
biggrin.gif
 It's actually not that scary once you get the cups apart though. Getting my cups apart was the most difficult part, as there was a crapload of glue in there.


I don't really feel a need to change the sound or look at all really, so I guess it's a classic case of if it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
Oh, and I really am not great with fiddly things. Tried to repair the se530 cable once, didn't work so well....
 
May 29, 2012 at 8:35 AM Post #2,328 of 8,987
Quote:
I'm too scared to modify my MS Pro or MS2 past a quarter modded HD414 pad
redface.gif

 
Personally, I don't think I'd touch the MS-Pro at all.  They are a $699 pair of headphones already - and, have good mahogany wooden cups as it is.  While I didn't think the sound of the MS-Pro impressed me all that much, it could probably be adjusted slightly via EQ settings to turn it into something lovely.  I used just a vintage piece of audio to drive them when I tried them and didn't try to overtake the tone in any way.
 
The MS2, on the other hand, is already in an aluminum cup.  The sound of the Grado SR-325i wasn't really for me, either.  Where the Grado started to get really good was with placing the SR-225i drivers in wooden cups and then eventually opting for the purchase of Magnum drivers to use in wooden cups.  Now, that's when I really became addicted to the Grado / Magnum sound.
 
Also, if someone is desiring more bass, one can open up some of the rear holes on the drivers - yet, I don't really recommend that direction.  While it can add bass, I don't think that the sound property changes (overall) are worth messing with by opening the holes.  Instead, one is just better off going for a pair of Magnum drivers.
 
May 29, 2012 at 1:30 PM Post #2,329 of 8,987
The metal Grados are actually the easiest to take apart. When you use a hair dryer to melt the glue, it heats the whole cup evenly and they slide apart easily. With the SR60s, I would have to work my way slowly around the entire circumference of the cup in order to melt all of the glue.
 
May 29, 2012 at 2:20 PM Post #2,330 of 8,987
You ain't lived untill you've put a £350 pair of phones into boiling water,sure makes them fall apart.Never did my 325is's any harm.Still using them every day two years later.Sound better than ever.Four holes in the felt and some bluetak.Loverlilly....My Dears.
 
 
May 29, 2012 at 2:27 PM Post #2,331 of 8,987
Quote:
You ain't lived untill you've put a £350 pair of phones into boiling water,sure makes them fall apart.Never did my 325is's any harm.Still using them every day two years later.Sound better than ever.Four holes in the felt and some bluetak.Loverlilly....My Dears.
 

 
lol
 
May 29, 2012 at 2:28 PM Post #2,332 of 8,987
The "spoon method" described here is by far the easiest way to open plastic Grados, no heat necessary: http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=grado_prj.htm AFAIK the newer Grados use a different, stronger glue than the old ones, and the steambath / hairdryer tricks don't work nearly as well as they used to. The spoon method still works like a charm though. Much easier and faster than the steambath / hairdryer methods.
 
May 29, 2012 at 4:24 PM Post #2,333 of 8,987
Quote:
The "spoon method" described here is by far the easiest way to open plastic Grados, no heat necessary: http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=grado_prj.htm AFAIK the newer Grados use a different, stronger glue than the old ones, and the steambath / hairdryer tricks don't work nearly as well as they used to. The spoon method still works like a charm though. Much easier and faster than the steambath / hairdryer methods.

 
Hair dryer worked fine with my now year-old SR60s
 
May 31, 2012 at 2:09 PM Post #2,334 of 8,987
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Hair dryer worked fine with my now year-old SR60s

 
The steaming method didn't work for me, so I used the hair dryer method as well. I just worked my way around the cups, pointing the dryer directly at the side of the cup, and constantly moving around the circumference of the cups until I was able to pull them apart. Be patient, and don't rush the process.
 
Jun 3, 2012 at 10:59 PM Post #2,336 of 8,987
My SR-80i is using a repaired Sony MDR-V150 headband, Sony MDR-V150 cable, Dynamat dampened driver, felt dampened cup, and poked one hole in the drivers felt membrane. The resulting sound is much airier and balanced. The felt damping along with Dynamat really tamed the treble and smoothed the headphone out. It's really nice now! The felt also killed resonances in the cup. Poking a whole in the felt over the driver made the bass a bit more plentiful and enjoyable. 
 
I got tired of that thick Grado cable so I swapped it for a V150 cable. The cables sound the almost exact same to my ears but the V150 cable seems to be more neutral. I'll post pics sometime when I get the chance.
 
Jun 5, 2012 at 9:09 PM Post #2,338 of 8,987
I've been to their outlet store before, picked up some gas masks from them as well as MRE's. They have cool stuff for sure.
 
Quote:
Hey guys, check out this metal bushing. It may need to be ground out a little bit to get it closer to 2" ID, but this would make good cups:
http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/16615

 

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