post your grado mods....
Mar 10, 2020 at 9:20 AM Post #8,731 of 8,987
Made some cups for someone in the style of thelostMIDrange's work. Paduak, Maple and Rosewood. Was fun to revisit his ideas. 20200309_191638.jpg20200309_191628.jpg20200309_191658.jpg
 
Mar 29, 2020 at 12:34 AM Post #8,732 of 8,987
Some recently finished work. They are Ebony GH1-style cups...

Curious if you
20190117_044838.jpg Some recently finished work. They are Ebony GH1-style cups...

Curious if you have the material to make another set of these. Trying to get all the parts for my first build and these would be perfect for the blacked out set I'm planning. Thanks for any help.
 
Apr 5, 2020 at 11:03 AM Post #8,733 of 8,987
Hey everyone, long time lurker, first time poster. I just attempted my own mod of my SR80s.

pic1
pic2

Cups are rosewood by turbulent labs. Headband is taken from an urbanears plattan. I also attempted the removable cable mod :).

During the process I also vented the drivers, and I may have pushed the mylar out of place on the right side--resulting in a grattle that can be gotten rid of by gently blowing on the driver to push the membrane back. This solution doesn't last forever and I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before/ has any tips? I was thinking of trying to reset the driver membrane by using a hair dryer to stretch the material a bit, but perhaps it's best to ask here first.

Also if the driver is in disrepair, any tips on getting them out of the wooden cups after they've been press fitted?
 
Apr 9, 2020 at 7:41 AM Post #8,734 of 8,987
Hey everyone, long time lurker, first time poster. I just attempted my own mod of my SR80s.

pic1
pic2

Cups are rosewood by turbulent labs. Headband is taken from an urbanears plattan. I also attempted the removable cable mod :).

During the process I also vented the drivers, and I may have pushed the mylar out of place on the right side--resulting in a grattle that can be gotten rid of by gently blowing on the driver to push the membrane back. This solution doesn't last forever and I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before/ has any tips? I was thinking of trying to reset the driver membrane by using a hair dryer to stretch the material a bit, but perhaps it's best to ask here first.

Also if the driver is in disrepair, any tips on getting them out of the wooden cups after they've been press fitted?
Try using a computer chip puller to get the drivers out, just know that you will have to make a small hole in one or two of the openings on the face of the driver.

As for the "grattle" I have seen it caused by venting, usually a hair or dust particle is the most likely cause and many times the only way is to remove the material covering the face of the driver, its what I had to do with a pair of SR60's that I had gotten just for the headband assembly but ended up getting rid of the "grattle" and ended up with a working SR60 that I modded with SMC jacks, dynamat and a silk organza grill cover.
 
Apr 15, 2020 at 12:52 PM Post #8,735 of 8,987
Is there a recommended soldering iron temperature to set to when recabling Grados? I am worried about damaging the voil coil and I have a variable temperature soldering iron.
 
Apr 15, 2020 at 1:00 PM Post #8,736 of 8,987
Is there a recommended soldering iron temperature to set to when recabling Grados? I am worried about damaging the voil coil and I have a variable temperature soldering iron.
I personally use 280-285 c° temperature with most of my electronic works. I have soldered many headphone/iem drivers and no problems. Real key though is to have proper soldering technique (and gear) so soldering process is fast.
 
Apr 15, 2020 at 2:09 PM Post #8,737 of 8,987
I personally use 280-285 c° temperature with most of my electronic works. I have soldered many headphone/iem drivers and no problems. Real key though is to have proper soldering technique (and gear) so soldering process is fast.
Thanks, maybe I should practice for a while before i attempt to recable my sr60s
 
Apr 16, 2020 at 4:29 PM Post #8,738 of 8,987
Is there a recommended soldering iron temperature to set to when recabling Grados? I am worried about damaging the voil coil and I have a variable temperature soldering iron.
The temp will also depend on the solder that you are using so keep that in mind also. I've been using Cardas Quad Eutectic solder @ 400C with a fine tip or a generic 63/37 @ 600C if I want a stronger joint.
 
May 14, 2020 at 8:07 AM Post #8,739 of 8,987
Hi everyone,

I am new to this thread, and could not find much info about this: what kind of custom earpads do you use? So far the only info I found was

a. Either of the Grado lineup (L, G, S, etc)
b. Sennheiser yellow pads
c. TTVJ pads
d. Beautiful audio pads - my favorites but super expensive

Is there any other option out there? I am looking for something like option d. but cheaper.

PS: I posted the same question in the Grado Fan Club thread, sorry for the double-post.
 
May 14, 2020 at 9:36 AM Post #8,740 of 8,987
Hi everyone,

I am new to this thread, and could not find much info about this: what kind of custom earpads do you use? So far the only info I found was

a. Either of the Grado lineup (L, G, S, etc)
b. Sennheiser yellow pads
c. TTVJ pads
d. Beautiful audio pads - my favorites but super expensive

Is there any other option out there? I am looking for something like option d. but cheaper.

PS: I posted the same question in the Grado Fan Club thread, sorry for the double-post.

I don't know of anyone making a cheaper version of the BA pads. They are indeed expensive...Ear Zonk is an alternative to Grado OEM foam pads. JUst search the name in Amazon and the options come up. The problem with Ear Zonks is that they are made of one density of foam. Grados are made with multiple densities. They alter the signature a little, okay if you like it, not if you are looking for the Grado sound. I personally find that their G Cush kind of darken things a bit...
 
May 14, 2020 at 10:19 AM Post #8,741 of 8,987
I don't know of anyone making a cheaper version of the BA pads. They are indeed expensive...Ear Zonk is an alternative to Grado OEM foam pads. JUst search the name in Amazon and the options come up. The problem with Ear Zonks is that they are made of one density of foam. Grados are made with multiple densities. They alter the signature a little, okay if you like it, not if you are looking for the Grado sound. I personally find that their G Cush kind of darken things a bit...

I got foam earpads that look like these ones by Ear Zonk, also made of single density foam. I am thinking of making earpads myself, might try on the weekend if I get some time.

BTW, you answered to my post on the T50RP thread! Now I am 3D printing a Grado mod hehe.
 
May 14, 2020 at 10:22 AM Post #8,742 of 8,987
I got foam earpads that look like these ones by Ear Zonk, also made of single density foam. I am thinking of making earpads myself, might try on the weekend if I get some time.

BTW, you answered to my post on the T50RP thread! Now I am 3D printing a Grado mod hehe.

Fantastic...I've seen a couple of 3D printed Grado cups...judging by how your T50 came out, I'm excited to see what they look like.
 
May 14, 2020 at 10:48 AM Post #8,744 of 8,987
I don't know of anyone making a cheaper version of the BA pads. They are indeed expensive...Ear Zonk is an alternative to Grado OEM foam pads. JUst search the name in Amazon and the options come up. The problem with Ear Zonks is that they are made of one density of foam. Grados are made with multiple densities. They alter the signature a little, okay if you like it, not if you are looking for the Grado sound. I personally find that their G Cush kind of darken things a bit...
I got foam earpads that look like these ones by Ear Zonk, also made of single density foam. I am thinking of making earpads myself, might try on the weekend if I get some time.

BTW, you answered to my post on the T50RP thread! Now I am 3D printing a Grado mod hehe.
I bought some cheap (not genuine) G-cushions for my SR225e and they look similiar to Ear Zonks. Made of one density and they do thicken/darken sound a bit indeed. Since they're cheap pads I decided to try make them slightly thinner by cutting foam off from center of pads. It removed that thickness of sound and restored Grado clarity quite a bit. They make my Grados sound really good, and solution is cheap. Comfort is also improved as ears have slightly more room. Looks is not the same, but it doesn't show when headphones are on head.
IMG_20200329_122408.jpg
 
May 19, 2020 at 3:46 AM Post #8,745 of 8,987
I am back! My mod is ready!

I had to redo the wood work quite a few times... somehow I could not get the varnish to shine as I wanted, but the final result is pretty nice. I also made a custom grille to add some style to them. I think the looks are pretty classy. I guess it is not for everyone though, a friend did not like it, my brother did not like it either, but I am happy!

Next steps will be a custom headband and custom earpads. I am way down in the rabbit hole already...

IMG_20200519_093805.jpg
 

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