post your grado mods....
Aug 27, 2015 at 7:43 PM Post #6,557 of 8,992
  Bruce.....I think you're to much of a perfectionist, I think it's because of all the training you did as an Olympic athlete in the old country.  

 
LMAO...I was actually looking through that thread a few days ago...I really liked that tour.
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/686212/the-great-grado-experiment-4-tonewoods-tested-more-to-come/165#post_10245404
 
Sadly I have lost some of my form and am no longer quite as athletically inclined as I was in my youth....
 
Aug 28, 2015 at 12:34 PM Post #6,559 of 8,992
  in terms of cup depth it's also worth reading this thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/592921/cup-tuning-basics

So far I like Hard Maple, Hard Maple/Mahogany and Western Red Cedar the best, that's not to say I don't like the rest. 
 
 I like to keep the cups between an inch and an inch and 1/4. Longer cups can get a little honky.
 
The size of the inner lip has a lot to do with cup tuning also. The button Grado puts on the middle of the screen is there for tuning purposes.
 
Western red Cedar is one of the softer soft woods and I like it. I tried it because it's used a lot as a top wood (soundboard) on acoustic guitars because of it's projection. I wanted to try Sitca Spruce because it's used on a lot of acoustic guitars soundboards also and on 90% of the Guitars Taylor makes...... but I don't like the looks of it, I want to use a tone-wood that looks nice.
 
Aug 28, 2015 at 8:57 PM Post #6,561 of 8,992
   
i couldn't agree more
my faves are the maple/mahogany and the cedar in that order
(the cedar ones are in my bag to listen to at work tonite)

 
Not going to lie...I really like good old Mahogany. For a while there I really liked super-hard Lignum Vitae, but tastes change :)...not sure I am ready to settle though. I want to have a go at some Ebony and some Cocobolo.
 
Aug 29, 2015 at 4:07 PM Post #6,562 of 8,992
Did a little personal work this morning...thought I would see just how thin I could make a wall while copying the old SR-series style cup...surprised these made it through, but they work well. Put them on some SR60 pinks I picked up from 7Keys (thanks again!):
 

 

 

 
I think one of the greatest legacies Joseph Grado left behind is never really talked about, but we celebrate it everyday in this thread...the original design of the Grado headphone is crushingly simple and elegant. Its a masterpiece of industrial design...
 
Edit: by the "original design" I mean the driver-in-a-sleeve-with-an-outer-cup-in-a-yoke setup...I keep wondering if there is a better way to make them to no avail...
 
Aug 29, 2015 at 4:50 PM Post #6,563 of 8,992
  Did a little personal work this morning...thought I would see just how thin I could make a wall while copying the old SR-series style cup...surprised these made it through, but they work well. Put them on some SR60 pinks I picked up from 7Keys (thanks again!):
 

 

 

 
I think one of the greatest legacies Joseph Grado left behind is never really talked about, but we celebrate it everyday in this thread...the original design of the Grado headphone is crushingly simple and elegant. Its a masterpiece of industrial design...
 
Edit: by the "original design" I mean the driver-in-a-sleeve-with-an-outer-cup-in-a-yoke setup...I keep wondering if there is a better way to make them to no avail...

You should make another pair with thicker walls to compare.
 
Aug 29, 2015 at 4:54 PM Post #6,564 of 8,992
  You should make another pair with thicker walls to compare.

 
Any thicker and I start having to heat and stretch out the gimbals...I might make a full-woody pair though, to do a comparison :).
 
Aug 29, 2015 at 5:39 PM Post #6,565 of 8,992
  Did a little personal work this morning...thought I would see just how thin I could make a wall while copying the old SR-series style cup...surprised these made it through, but they work well. Put them on some SR60 pinks I picked up from 7Keys (thanks again!):
 
 
 
 
 

 
I think one of the greatest legacies Joseph Grado left behind is never really talked about, but we celebrate it everyday in this thread...the original design of the Grado headphone is crushingly simple and elegant. Its a masterpiece of industrial design...
 
Edit: by the "original design" I mean the driver-in-a-sleeve-with-an-outer-cup-in-a-yoke setup...I keep wondering if there is a better way to make them to no avail...

thats a great look
there's a picture of a grado prototype looks something like that
great work
 
Aug 29, 2015 at 7:19 PM Post #6,566 of 8,992
thats a great look
there's a picture of a grado prototype looks something like that
great work


Tks :)

I remember those cans...they were called the RS3 right? Apparently John was pissed when he discovered they were for sale...LMAO
 
Aug 30, 2015 at 8:05 AM Post #6,570 of 8,992
Just dug out my orig. SR-80s.
 
New (cheap) eBay pads and I can use the cans again! (I was skeptical but found the Chinese eBay pads just as good as the 4x as costly OEMs from Amazon. I'm using std. L-pad/cushion).
 
Of my three Grados (others: HP1, SR-325i), the SR-80 are probably my faves. But their bright sound and uncomfort usually made me retreat to Senns or beyers.
 
Finally tried the tape mod.
 
Haven't  tried any other mod ... like different tape types, or tape in other locations than the one Tyll uses here...
 

 
I tired a few types of tape (on hand) and found black electrical the best.
 
Cutting to the chase: this is the BEST mod I've tried on the SR-80 (other mods I've tried but were not so great: TTVJ flats, and that sock mod posted on IF).
 
This is a LONG head-fi thread, (438 pages) and I don't have the time to dig.
 
I need your help and experience! So, please help me "filter out" the best mods that will further improve my Grado cans. Maybe just name a few quickies off the top of your head. I'll go from there and report back.
 
Thanks!
 

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