post your grado mods....
Feb 1, 2015 at 4:56 PM Post #6,031 of 8,988
I use a socket and cut around it with one of those hobby scalpels. Works fine on both the S-cushion and the Sennheiser 414.
 
Feb 1, 2015 at 6:14 PM Post #6,032 of 8,988
I tried the two most common methods discussed on this forum for producing the quarter mod (quarter+xacto knife and socket+xacto knife) but neither method yielded a finished product that I was satisfied with. Neither produced the clean cut I was looking for and retained imperfections that did not sit with me well. I could continue to trim the circle until I was "near-satisfied" but, still, not 100%. So, I strolled down to my local Hobby Lobby looking for something that resembled a "wad punch" (which run for about $30 for a single size and I could only find online) and I found these:
 
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/graduated-circle-metal-cutters-1012285/
 
They are simple metal rings for cutting clay/soft plastics. BUT, it worked for making perfect circles in Grado S cushions. From bottom-->up I arranged a $1 piece of foam pad (for cushioning) --> Grado S cushion --> 1" metal ring --> 3"x3" piece of 1" thick MDF I had lying around (to apply uniform force) and them hammered the wood on top of the ring with a rubber mallet. This produced nice, defined 1" holes that did not require trimming. I will make a note though: just one good wallop with the mallet was not enough to cut through the S cushion on the first try. It started the process but I finished off the holes by rotating the ring in the cushion, effectively "cutting" through the foam. This process took about 2min for each pad, but again, they look terrific!
 
I would post pictures, but I am constrained by "noob" status and do not have the  "post pictures" clearance yet.
 
Feb 1, 2015 at 8:39 PM Post #6,033 of 8,988
Here are a few photos of my (S) cushion pipe modded using the ID from the opening of the cup side of the cushion, coming right through the driver side of the cushion…a perfect circle! Also a great band! 



 
Feb 2, 2015 at 12:17 PM Post #6,034 of 8,988
I have a quick question for everyone. I've been out of the Grado modding game for a few years and although I've read the last hundred and fifty pages or so, I don't have a conclusive answer. Is anyone still making wooden inners for liberated drivers?
 
I've wanted an HF1 for years but since there are none available (and for non-crazy prices), I've decided to build my own homage using a donor SR60. I basically just need a cheap mahogany inner liner. If anyone has any available, please let me know. And while I'm at it, I also could use a spare SR60 (non-I) driver, since I currently have three, and could use a fourth to actually have two functioning pairs of headphones. 
 
Feb 2, 2015 at 12:50 PM Post #6,036 of 8,988
  I have a quick question for everyone. I've been out of the Grado modding game for a few years and although I've read the last hundred and fifty pages or so, I don't have a conclusive answer. Is anyone still making wooden inners for liberated drivers?
 
I've wanted an HF1 for years but since there are none available (and for non-crazy prices), I've decided to build my own homage using a donor SR60. I basically just need a cheap mahogany inner liner. If anyone has any available, please let me know. And while I'm at it, I also could use a spare SR60 (non-I) driver, since I currently have three, and could use a fourth to actually have two functioning pairs of headphones. 

IMHO you should use SR60i drivers, they are voiced warmer and smoother in the upper midrange than the original SR60.  The "i" model also has a more going on at the far ends of the spectrum than the SR60.  Highs extend higher and are more detailed/articulate and the lows extend lower.  IMHO overall the 60i is a closer sonic match to the HF1
 
Feb 2, 2015 at 1:10 PM Post #6,037 of 8,988
IMHO you should use SR60i drivers, they are voiced warmer and smoother in the upper midrange than the original SR60.  The "i" model also has a more going on at the far ends of the spectrum than the SR60.  Highs extend higher and are more detailed/articulate and the lows extend lower.  IMHO overall the 60i is a closer sonic match to the HF1


I agree, although my vote would go to the SR80i
 
Feb 2, 2015 at 1:30 PM Post #6,039 of 8,988
I appreciate the advice. I'll look into it in the future, however I wanted to work with what I have. And currently that is only three old style SR60 drivers. I'll keep an eye out for some 60i or 80i drivers I guess.
 
Feb 2, 2015 at 1:32 PM Post #6,040 of 8,988
I agree, although my vote would go to the SR80i

Yep... the farther up you scale the better it gets.  The HF1 has always been thought of as a warmer version of the SR225.  If you wanted to do a DIY HF1 build on a parallel level I'd start with the 225 or 225i.  Clarity and detail resolution between the 225/HF1 and 60 is slight but IMHO noticeable.
 
Feb 2, 2015 at 2:25 PM Post #6,041 of 8,988
Eventually I am going to have to step up and grab a pair of RS1s. Supposedly they pair very well with the CTH I already have. Last time I was on a buying kick about two years ago, I was big on Orthos, but I've slowly been swinging back to where it all started, with the Grados. I listened most of the line way back when, but I would really need to do some back to back listening with my system to determine any differences.
 
Feb 2, 2015 at 2:29 PM Post #6,042 of 8,988
Feb 4, 2015 at 11:31 AM Post #6,045 of 8,988
Who sells a Grado headband that matches the color of the RS1i cups?
 

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