post your grado mods....
Mar 13, 2012 at 9:56 AM Post #2,072 of 8,988


Quote:
Since I destroyed my SR80i's, the question is should I buy another pair or look for headphones that already have killer bass without modding?  I've clearly proven my gross incompetence at modding, but I did spend money on the Bowl pads and the Dynamat. 



It's all up to you man, if you love the Grado sound signature then I say go for it, get another pair, maybe try Alessandro's or something similar. But, if that specefic style of sound didn't do it for you, then yeah, try another can, maybe you'll find something you really like.
It's all about personal preference, and how much money you have to spend.
beyersmile.png

 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:03 AM Post #2,073 of 8,988


Quote:
Since I destroyed my SR80i's, the question is should I buy another pair or look for headphones that already have killer bass without modding?  I've clearly proven my gross incompetence at modding, but I did spend money on the Bowl pads and the Dynamat. 



How'd you destroy your Grados? Post up pics, I can try to help you here, if not, worse case scenario I can offer my personal touch to help you out, just cover shipping :)
 
If you MUST have killer bass, no amount of modding is going to give you it from the Grados without sacrificing the mids at all (mids get all muddy and bass bleeds into the rest of the frequency response), the driver area is just too small, thats why it's fast and accurate without distortion. I recommend Ultrasone HFI 580's or something instead.
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 2:22 PM Post #2,074 of 8,988
I have an interesting problem. The metal rod that connects to the swively thing that the earcups connect to has come out. It will not stay in, aka I cannot put the headphones on my head without the earcup/driver assembly falling off. Should I just drop some krazy glue into the hole the rod goes into? I have no idea how this happened, the headphones are two weeks old.
 
I should also note that the rod is VERY loose when it's in, as in the hole seems about an 1/8 too big for it, lots and lots of wiggle room so I'm worried the glue won't be able to hold it.
 
About 99% done with my headphones...
 
Just need to fix this issue and do the single-cable mod.
 
One question about the single cable mod. If I'm using my Y cable and I splice the cable together to make a single cable, will I end up soldering the headphone end INSIDE of a 3.5 mm jack housing (the back end of the male side, and the male side will connect into the earcup), or should I just get a 3.5 male-male cable and cut the end off and splice that to the "now single" Y cable?
 
I hope that makes sense. Thanks.
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 9:55 PM Post #2,075 of 8,988
What kind of cable is this orange/black cable and where do I get it or something like it? I plan on doing the single-mod to my phones but I could only find this black conductor 4-wire stuff and I don't even know if it's the right thing so we'll see.

 
Here's my poor Grados 
rolleyes.gif


 
Let's see...
Beyer headband
Reverse quarter-modded 414s (Trying to get some bowls & tape mod 'em)
Custom cut metal grill (black)
Hand painted everything. Sanded everything off. The [L] and [R] are shiny and the rest of the brick thing is sanded off and "dusty". Same w/ the Earcups. The black ring w/ "The Prestige" letting is shiny and the rounded cup bit is sanded to look "dusty".
           Some will say it was probably dumb to paint them ... black.. since that's how they come, but I didn't realize you can just sand the silver lettering and wa-lah, it's black. I like it though, especially how I did the shiny black/dusty black contrast on                  the ear-cups and metal-bricks. 
 
All I have left is to single cable mod it & find some bowls.
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:01 PM Post #2,076 of 8,988


Quote:
I have an interesting problem. The metal rod that connects to the swively thing that the earcups connect to has come out. It will not stay in, aka I cannot put the headphones on my head without the earcup/driver assembly falling off. Should I just drop some krazy glue into the hole the rod goes into? I have no idea how this happened, the headphones are two weeks old.
 
I should also note that the rod is VERY loose when it's in, as in the hole seems about an 1/8 too big for it, lots and lots of wiggle room so I'm worried the glue won't be able to hold it.
 
About 99% done with my headphones...
 
Just need to fix this issue and do the single-cable mod.
 
One question about the single cable mod. If I'm using my Y cable and I splice the cable together to make a single cable, will I end up soldering the headphone end INSIDE of a 3.5 mm jack housing (the back end of the male side, and the male side will connect into the earcup), or should I just get a 3.5 male-male cable and cut the end off and splice that to the "now single" Y cable?
 
I hope that makes sense. Thanks.



Call Grado, they mail new hardware for free I believe if your headphones are in warranty, if not I think it's like $15 for a new pair of rods/gimbals.
 
Just make sure when you send pictures it doesn't look like you've been raping your headphones haha
 
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:47 PM Post #2,078 of 8,988


Quote:
I fixed it.
 
Krazy Glue :)


Well, time to go to Target to buy me a bottle of that stuff instead of waiting for Grado to respond to my e-mail. I just hate the smell haha. Plus I'm like Tim the Toolman Taylor and I glue myself to everything dude
 
 
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:57 PM Post #2,079 of 8,988


Quote:
Well, time to go to Target to buy me a bottle of that stuff instead of waiting for Grado to respond to my e-mail. I just hate the smell haha. Plus I'm like Tim the Toolman Taylor and I glue myself to everything dude
 
 

haha
 
what do you have to glue together?
 
i was so mad I tried to put the headphones on and the cups fell off
 
I havn't noticed a smell unless I smell it on purpose, and I did, and it doesnt smell bad
 
be careful not to use too much.. i did and some rose up out of the hole and messed up the paint job I did so I had to sand it down and add another layer to it, but the other side I learned my lesson. you only need a drop.
 
yeah my index finger and thumb are paper-white right now because I got them stuck together and apparently it makes your skin white, luckily I got them unstuck fast haha.
 
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 9:46 AM Post #2,080 of 8,988
Hi! Here is my humble sr-60 mod: cups are made of 20 year old pear wood finished with mix of bee wax, acetone and olive oil.
 
I'm thinking about recabliing. Acording to my financial situation: only considerable options are CAT5 wires torn from ethernet cable or 24 AUG silver plated copper wires.
I know there are many recable threads, but i will appreciate any word about my dilemma. Would it actually do better than original grado cables?
Sorry for my poor english.
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 1:43 PM Post #2,081 of 8,988


Quote:
Hi! Here is my humble sr-60 mod: cups are made of 20 year old pear wood finished with mix of bee wax, acetone and olive oil.
 
I'm thinking about recabliing. Acording to my financial situation: only considerable options are CAT5 wires torn from ethernet cable or 24 AUG silver plated copper wires.
I know there are many recable threads, but i will appreciate any word about my dilemma. Would it actually do better than original grado cables?
Sorry for my poor english.



Your english is perfect as far as I can tell. 
If it's available Mogami 2534 is a great copper cable, and it's cheap too. Although, I don't think there is any detectable sonic difference between it and Grado's cable. But who knows you may think different.
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 2:44 PM Post #2,082 of 8,988


Quote:
Hi! Here is my humble sr-60 mod: cups are made of 20 year old pear wood finished with mix of bee wax, acetone and olive oil.
 
I'm thinking about recabliing. Acording to my financial situation: only considerable options are CAT5 wires torn from ethernet cable or 24 AUG silver plated copper wires.
I know there are many recable threads, but i will appreciate any word about my dilemma. Would it actually do better than original grado cables?
Sorry for my poor english.


Canare Starquad can be had for like $1/ft :)
 
It won't twist up like the stock cable and it's better shielded, not that the stock cable is bad or anything, but personally it weighs too much for me.
 
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 4:08 PM Post #2,083 of 8,988

Quote:
Your english is perfect as far as I can tell. 
If it's available Mogami 2534 is a great copper cable, and it's cheap too. Although, I don't think there is any detectable sonic difference between it and Grado's cable. But who knows you may think different.

 
Quote:
Canare Starquad can be had for like $1/ft :)
 
It won't twist up like the stock cable and it's better shielded, not that the stock cable is bad or anything, but personally it weighs too much for me.
 


Thank's a lot, both of you. But I tought about complete DIY cable: (2x (solid wire 22or24 AUG<silicone tubing) twisted with cotton< 0.2mm copper shielding)<heatshrink<nylone coating.
I am just not sure about wire material and shielding. So i found  this high purity CuAg wires, witch are sold in local store for HF purposes. About shielding, I am still not sure if it is necessarry, because i saw a lot of diy hi-fi interconnect cables, witch were just three wires, without shielding. Will my diagram work? Or it is just waste of time, and i should buy one these microphone cables?
 
 
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 6:08 PM Post #2,085 of 8,988
Not sure if this is suitable for this thread but has anybody tried these pads out?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-Sennheiser-HD414-Pads-Grado-Alessandro-replacement-SR60-SR80-SR325-MS1-MS2-/120875941863?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item1c24c47fe7#ht_500wt_1287

I've tried a pair of SR 80's before but I was not able to enjoy them because of the damn stock ear pads!
I know you can pick the G-cush pads from amazon but I find them WAY too expensive for something that is just made out of foam.
 

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