post your grado mods....
Mar 14, 2012 at 7:01 PM Post #2,086 of 8,987

I'm not trying to hijack this thread with cable-talk at all, but when it comes to shielding, everybody has their own philosophy about how to build a cable, they all vary, hence there is a large collection of people who suggest that different cables of the same materials (a lot of people use the same wire, different techniques, different results)
 
For the ones that aren't shielded, usually a litz braid where all the wires cross at ~90 degree angles to minimize contact patch along with nylon PTFE tubing make it plenty shielded enough... so it's not that shielding isn't necessary haha.
 
Your cable sounds like it's more than substantial on paper
Quote:
 

Thank's a lot, both of you. But I tought about complete DIY cable: (2x (solid wire 22or24 AUG<silicone tubing) twisted with cotton< 0.2mm copper shielding)<heatshrink<nylone coating.
I am just not sure about wire material and shielding. So i found  this high purity CuAg wires, witch are sold in local store for HF purposes. About shielding, I am still not sure if it is necessarry, because i saw a lot of diy hi-fi interconnect cables, witch were just three wires, without shielding. Will my diagram work? Or it is just waste of time, and i should buy one these microphone cables?
 
 



 
 
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 10:26 PM Post #2,087 of 8,987


Quote:
Not sure if this is suitable for this thread but has anybody tried these pads out?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-Sennheiser-HD414-Pads-Grado-Alessandro-replacement-SR60-SR80-SR325-MS1-MS2-/120875941863?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item1c24c47fe7#ht_500wt_1287

I've tried a pair of SR 80's before but I was not able to enjoy them because of the damn stock ear pads!
I know you can pick the G-cush pads from amazon but I find them WAY too expensive for something that is just made out of foam.



G-cush supposedly suck for the Prestige series.
Those are just dyed Sennheiser 414 pads. Check Amazon, they're $12 shipped but yellow.
They're pretty comfy. Most people usually cut a hole in the center and put it on backwards, it's called reverse quarter mod.
 
I have a question. I just cut the "Y" adapter off my cable and freed the 2 sets of wires. What would be the best way about protecting them? I feel like shrink wrap would look dorky as hell. Where can I find that cool mesh looking black cable that I've seen around here? Should I just order a nylon heatshrink, but a long one? Thanks.
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 11:12 PM Post #2,088 of 8,987


Quote:
How'd you destroy your Grados? Post up pics, I can try to help you here, if not, worse case scenario I can offer my personal touch to help you out, just cover shipping :)
 
If you MUST have killer bass, no amount of modding is going to give you it from the Grados without sacrificing the mids at all (mids get all muddy and bass bleeds into the rest of the frequency response), the driver area is just too small, thats why it's fast and accurate without distortion. I recommend Ultrasone HFI 580's or something instead.


I destroyed the left can of my Grados while trying to get a piece of rice out of the driver ring.  I pried the driver out, which allowed me to see the rice better and control its motion more easily, and I got it out finally.  Then I took a long time trying to get the headphones back together because I had stretched out the plastic on the part that holds the driver ring while removing it.  After I finally got it back together, I tried them out and that can stopped working entirely.  I took it back apart to see if I could see any damage, but there isn't really any visual damage to the wires or anything.  Nothing a picture would help showing really.  While I was trying to get the driver out, I was heating the plastic around it with a blow dryer to try to melt the glue.  Something probably got fried during that stupid step.
 
I went ahead and ordered some M-Audio Studiophile Q40s because I hear they have great bass.
 
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 1:19 AM Post #2,089 of 8,987


Quote:
G-cush supposedly suck for the Prestige series.
Those are just dyed Sennheiser 414 pads. Check Amazon, they're $12 shipped but yellow.
They're pretty comfy. Most people usually cut a hole in the center and put it on backwards, it's called reverse quarter mod.
 
I have a question. I just cut the "Y" adapter off my cable and freed the 2 sets of wires. What would be the best way about protecting them? I feel like shrink wrap would look dorky as hell. Where can I find that cool mesh looking black cable that I've seen around here? Should I just order a nylon heatshrink, but a long one? Thanks.


I used heat shrink first and then put techflex over it, and that works great although it makes the cable a little more rigid, especially if you use techflex below the y-split on the big cable. But it seems like you won't be doing that. Maybe just skip the heatshrink part? But with techflex only, you can still see the colored wires underneath, if you care about that.
As for the y-split, a couple layers of heatshrink worked for me, and looks pretty nice. 


 
Mar 15, 2012 at 1:19 AM Post #2,090 of 8,987
I got a quote for Grado 80 driver repair of $30 (was thinking about buying some broken ones in the FS forum).  Might be an option if you don't want to trashe them..
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 8:35 AM Post #2,091 of 8,987


Quote:
G-cush supposedly suck for the Prestige series.
Those are just dyed Sennheiser 414 pads. Check Amazon, they're $12 shipped but yellow.
They're pretty comfy. Most people usually cut a hole in the center and put it on backwards, it's called reverse quarter mod.
 
I have a question. I just cut the "Y" adapter off my cable and freed the 2 sets of wires. What would be the best way about protecting them? I feel like shrink wrap would look dorky as hell. Where can I find that cool mesh looking black cable that I've seen around here? Should I just order a nylon heatshrink, but a long one? Thanks.


hmm, interesting.. I'll keep that in mind for future references.
 
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 5:11 PM Post #2,093 of 8,987
I have some ms1i's i got back in december or early jan cant remember that id sale ya. Ive done a few small mods like puddy on the driver,felted the inside the cups and punched 1 hole on each side for bass. 
 
Quote:
Almost have enough for my Alessandro's, after awhile I think I might go hard in da' paint and get some Magnums in those, should sound pretty good!


 
 
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 5:45 PM Post #2,094 of 8,987
I got a dumb question for you fine folks
 
I opened up the cable to expose the 4 wires
 
and I just got the 3.5 male jack
 
How exactly I do I feed the 4 wires into the 3.5 male jack? There's just a tiny little silver thing on the back of it. Do I solder the wires together to touch it? How do I keep them in contact with it? Do I solder them directly to it?
 
Also, when I get the FEMALE mount end of the 3.5 jack, how do I distinguish between the Left and Right channels?
 
I'm very perplexed by all of this.
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 6:00 PM Post #2,095 of 8,987


Quote:
I got a dumb question for you fine folks
 
I opened up the cable to expose the 4 wires
 
and I just got the 3.5 male jack
 
How exactly I do I feed the 4 wires into the 3.5 male jack? There's just a tiny little silver thing on the back of it. Do I solder the wires together to touch it? How do I keep them in contact with it? Do I solder them directly to it?
 
Also, when I get the FEMALE mount end of the 3.5 jack, how do I distinguish between the Left and Right channels?
 
I'm very perplexed by all of this.

 

I just hijacked this from the 1st picture I found using a certain internet search engine. 
 
From your Grado cable, the BLUE goes to the RIGHT/RING channel, the RED goes to the LEFT/TIP channel, and both whites go to the ground.
Use solder and have fun!
 
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 6:11 PM Post #2,096 of 8,987
Internet search engine?
 
what's that!?!?!?
 
I tried googling, couldnt find anything.
 
My 3.5 has 3 holes. One hole on the left, it's a short little metal thing coming from the center.
 
The other hole is on the right, and is longger, coming from behind the center.
 
So what I'm reading is that the blue wire will connect to the right metal bit
 
and the red will connect to the left
 
and the two white ones will connect to the hole in the bottom (it's the longest metal bit)
 
I hope that made sense. 
 
How will I know where to connect the cables on the female end? (the mounted 3.5 jack)
 
Mar 15, 2012 at 11:57 PM Post #2,097 of 8,987


Quote:
Internet search engine?
 
what's that!?!?!?
 
I tried googling, couldnt find anything.
 
My 3.5 has 3 holes. One hole on the left, it's a short little metal thing coming from the center.
 
The other hole is on the right, and is longger, coming from behind the center.
 
So what I'm reading is that the blue wire will connect to the right metal bit
 
and the red will connect to the left
 
and the two white ones will connect to the hole in the bottom (it's the longest metal bit)
 
I hope that made sense. 
 
How will I know where to connect the cables on the female end? (the mounted 3.5 jack)

Are you trying to mod a detachable cable for your Grados? I think you'll have to be more specific here.
 
 
 
Mar 16, 2012 at 12:45 AM Post #2,099 of 8,987


Quote:
I have some ms1i's i got back in december or early jan cant remember that id sale ya. Ive done a few small mods like puddy on the driver,felted the inside the cups and punched 1 hole on each side for bass. 
 

 
 


I'm not sure if I want to do any of those mods yet, I deffs have to give them a listen then decide. I'm gonna get the MS2i's and from what I hear, they're pretty good just on their own. It all depends on if I like what they bring to the table unmodded though haha
 
 

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