[dBel84]

I don't think they can be removed from the YH100 ? I am assuming that yours snapped..dB

 

[Bubo]

 
Waulta suggested that I re-post with a pic. All suggestions, or spare parts, welcome.
 
Thanks!

 

[Armaegis]

Chewing gum, duct tape, and a prayer?

 

[wualta]

For an attempted repair in place, and assuming the pieces mate exactly, I'd moisten the joint with a droplet of water and with a toothpick put on a tiny drop of polyurethane glue, then try to clamp it. That's about the best I can think of just to get the thing back in one piece. 
 
Another possible approach: the strut or post is hollow. See if you can drill the strut all the way out to the headband using a bit of the same diameter. Then clamp it, then screw in a long thin screw to reinforce the strut. Or glue it, then redrill the strut to poke through the plug the glue created, then the screw.

 

[dogwan]

Just changed the damping of my Yamaha HP-2's and loving them!
 
Single full disc of craft felt backed by a disc of open cell aquarium filter foam. Previously had a felt doughnut with polyester batting to replace the rotted stock foam. They were fun but a little bloated on the bottom end. Now they are much more balanced, but still thump with tight bass.
 
Just sharing.
 
-Dogwan
 

 

[nick n]

thanks for sharing that it has triggered some ideas, and some inspiration also. Got an HP-1 and HP-50 to toy with , and am not happy with the HP-1 current config.
Gonna go with the thin Creatology foam in back then some other special junk I have, will chime in if it turns out halfways decent at all.
So many projects, you'd almost think i was avoiding life, heck this IS LIFE!

 
Also someone was playing around with a complete back cup sealing of the old Pioneer 500 piezo. Anyone else got one to try and add to these impressions?
http://www.head-fi.org/t/234371/this-old-headphone-reconstructing-the-pioneer-se-700-56k-slow/30#post_8651878
 
ahhh I predict mistuh dubya might have somfin to say soon.

 

[leeperry]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick n /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
heck this IS LIFE!

 
Surely, locating, buying and modding vintage orthos can quickly become a nasty OCD but we'd be bored out of our minds otherwise, forced to play silly PS3 games or conducting whatever other pointless hobby 

 
I should get ahold of that TDS5-m in the next coming days, I'm eager to hear what the russians had to say about pimping those vintage yamies!

 

[wualta]

Quote:

ahhh I predict mistuh dubya might have somfin to say [about dem SE-500s] soon.

[sounds of a rushing mighty rummage] Mistuh dubyah gotta FIND his SE-500 first! [ sounds of avalanche and alarum]

 

[nick n]

Quote:

 
Surely, locating, buying and modding vintage orthos can quickly become a nasty OCD but we'd be bored out of our minds otherwise, forced to play silly PS3 games or conducting whatever other pointless hobby 

 
I should get ahold of that TDS5-m in the next coming days, I'm eager to hear what the russians had to say about pimping those vintage yamies!

true about that other pointless hobby thing. Food for the mind this is.
 
Aren't the TDS5-M similar yet noticably different in some manner? Be curious to see your impressions.
 
 
----"[sounds of a rushing mighty rummage] Mistuh dubyah gotta FIND his SE-500 first! [ sounds of avalanche and alarum]"
 
uh oh. throwing all those cans over your shoulder as you dig through that 8 foot pile in the closet can be dangerous. Do not remove the lower keystone can, it can be dangerous if they all fall on top of you and nobody's home. Gettin all tangled up in the cords or suffocated by a sudden burst of decayed pleather coating dust like squid ink clouds would be an embarassingly bad way to go. Could be worse.
 
Maybe consider one of the walk-in closet motorized racks, like the drycleaners use.
 
" number 492 coming up!"

 

[Congo5]

Hi all;
 
having read about your transplant exploits....
Went on flea bay and picked up Fostex T-20 drivers....

Put them in a Stax SR-40 housing.

Just cut the baffle down to size and used double sided tape, an old Sony cord,
felt and a bit of air conditioner filter open cell foam on the back.
no permanent damage to my stax.
 
  If I understand correctly the rules are:
treat them like stats----small ear cavity..flat pads are best..
damp from behind ... like all the yammies...
 
How do they sound?
 
well they don't bother me to wear or listen to...
there is an openness to the imaging, but some of the low bass is missing
Have used them for 3 days now and although they are not great, they are good...
I like stats & Otho's --could do the other but would have to spend a lot..
Stax SR-3N and modded T-50RP are my reference right now..
I have not run any FR graphs yet.
 

what do you think?

 

[JadeEast]

Looks nice, it's not surprising to me that a T20 based open back headphone would be lacking a bit in the low end. You could try to seal up the rear venting of the headphone a bit, but you will probably loose some of the airiness and imaging. Have you tried the set up with no damping?

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Does anyone have a spare Universal Joint mounting post for YH-100 Yamaha, need one?
 

 
How stock do you need them to be  
 

 
..dB

 

[Congo5]

yes the low end is very loose - not good...with out some damping..
right now it has one piece of stiff craft felt..barely enough..all there is room for.
 
It has enough bass to fool me into not noticing.
enough to shake the phones on my head.
 
Oh ... the felt is 80% covered with transpore...
 
These drivers were under $40
I have always liked the openness of Stax
After reading the T-50 thread and building a pair, I like ortho's too.
just had to try an open ortho mod..
I have not found any phones under $200 that will stay on my head very long...
 
 
thanks...

 

[wualta]

When you open the back and let more bass backwave out, sealing becomes much more important. Make sure there are no direct leaks, especially around the earpads. A layer of felt acts as a poor-man's delay line, so try lining the back screen with thin craft felt. Then maybe you can re-tune the damping on the driver magnet. On the other hand, if you have smooth response with no humps or scoop-outs, consider it a blessing (all headphones should be so lucky), give 'em a little bass boost and rock on.
 
When I find them, I'm going to try the felt-the-back trick on my SE-500 before I try the seal-the-back mod.

 

[Congo5]

Quote:

When you open the back and let more bass backwave out, sealing becomes much more important. Make sure there are no direct leaks, especially around the earpads. A layer of felt acts as a poor-man's delay line, so try lining the back screen with thin craft felt. Then maybe you can re-tune the damping on the driver magnet. On the other hand, if you have smooth response with no humps or scoop-outs, consider it a blessing (all headphones should be so lucky), give 'em a little bass boost and rock on.
 
When I find them, I'm going to try the felt-the-back trick on my SE-500 before I try the seal-the-back mod.

Ahh..... leave some space before felt.....for air....movement, compression...
 
I think the pads are well sealed ....can recheck this...its double sided tape that Stax uses..
driver to baffle is sealed ... by me.
 
  there is no room with this housing as the T-20's are thicker than Sax original...
might be able to get .5mm gap - easy to try.
 
  As far as felt:
I found that the stiff craft felts were much better than the soft ...
do not remember exactly why but it was a big difference..
gave up on the soft.
 
Here is a graph of Stax-T-20 vrs T50RP  No EQ.


with 5db boost it sounds fine to me...just doesn't shake the floor.
 
 Thanks