[NAYOSO]

^
I've opened it long time ago
but if we just leave it open without any modification what we get is big boomy bass

 

[rhythmdevils]

I think you're thinking of the vent in the back of the cup.  I'm talking about the 4 tiny little holes in the baffle. 

 

[joelpearce]

Quote:

I think you're thinking of the vent in the back of the cup.  I'm talking about the 4 tiny little holes in the baffle. 

Where do they exit on the back of the driver?

 

[NAYOSO]

Quote:

I think you're thinking of the vent in the back of the cup.  I'm talking about the 4 tiny little holes in the baffle. 

owh I'm sorry I get the wrong idea

I'll try to open it later thanks

 

[nick n]

Latest SFI project, did it in about 6 hours tonight, half hour for the initial cup making earlier. I was too lazy to use the lathe so truly they are pucks. Look heavy but they are 3+ year old alder, and each cup weighs the same as an SFI driver itself believe it or not so overall fairly light completed. Alder is easy to work with, super light, strong and great for furniture making and obviously a good candidate for cups.
Only 2 coats ( or was it 3? ) of water based Acrylic Polyurethane, didn't want the high gloss 7 coat thing, and that got the project done tonight.
 
And bass, there's bass. PHEW~!
 
Pads from my Superlux 662F which p me off because they are not that soft, way too firm so new ones coming that are slightly low profile and softer. These bother my jaw even when they were on the Superlux. Terrible pads I'm surprised nobody else has mentioned this before in the Superlux Express Train thread. No More Nails double sided mounting tape.
Headband and coiled cable from an old Philips 70's can pretty rare but oh well. Had to open them up and resolder to replace the faulty headband cabling after it was all good to go or so I thought. I guess that the original cans were ok then. Oh well again. That headband cabling came from a Sansui SS20.
 
I used a drill bit to make a 35mm hole to the depth, extended that a bit further in the middle with a regular drill bit, then angled a 38mm drill bit about 12-15 degrees to create a lip for the driver to sit on a slight angle.
Used a small disc of super dense felt in the bottoms, with a tiny bass vent ( less than 1/8 inch ) that exits at the bottom rather than looking bad on the backside of the cup ( see pic with coiled cable entering cup, it's right there beside it ). That felt is worth getting it came from a velcro-attached polishing pad ( auto store or hardware store ) just slice off the attached velcro part.
Mounted the driver with a thin strip of putty at the angled lip and also applied putty in the space where the driver tabs sit. I'll fill all the seams tomorrow with more.
Deoxit on the inside and outside of the TRS plug.
Autosol metal polish on the chrome.
Thick and long chrome computer fan screws for mounting points
Came out ok considering it went so fast with the build.
Once again these pads...horrible comfort.
New Superlux replacement pads on fleabay are softer and slightly lower so that's the only tweaking needed, which after the Hackamichi ordeal is a welcome thing.
Done at first attempt. Pays to think ahead I finally learned




 
 
 

 

[dBel84]

That looks great nick , did you seal the edge around the driver too ? Seeing your work inspires me to resurrect my pucks too ..dB

 

[nick n]

The driver edge is sealed where it rests on the angled lip, but I am going to also put a thin based around the exposed top face edge.  Was a fun project.

 

[Armaegis]

Very impressive Nick! Makes me wish I had some woodworking skills.

 

[scompton]

No damping other that felt in the back of the cup?  And is putty the only thing holding the driver in the cup?

 

[nick n]

The hole for the driver was a bit too tight and had to be tediously exacto'd a bit , so that part is snug. The bead of putty along the bottom is the only seal so far in addition to the tight pressure fit. It's in there for sure = no room for moving, but just to be sure a thin bead pressed into the miniscule crack along the top of the driver edge is all that it needs yet.
The felt isn't typical felt, at least that I have inferred from thread pictures. 60mm  6mm thick and can't really compress it by hand that much it's so tight. Just the one disc.
 
I'd like to try an open back next time with some inlaid woods or metal strips, can't recall how to bring out the bass on those though. Have to get back to reading. That and how to make it not look stupid. Maybe the lathe next time. need to go browse for some more cheapo donor shells with chrome bits. I'm a sucker for chrome and wood combinations.

 

[Navermyr]

Anyone around here who won this Wharfedale? Let us know about sound and condition, also you other owners out there.
 

 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160670315400?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
 
 

 

[nick n]

Oh that Wharfedale had only one working side according to the auction but still may have been salvagable though. Wasn't willing to take the risk myself. I really hope someone can save it from being a parts donor.

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

No damping other that felt in the back of the cup?  And is putty the only thing holding the driver in the cup?

This is the way that my SFI sounds best too. I have tried inserting all sorts of materials in the space but they all seem to suck the life out of the drivers. That little breathing room does wonders for the "soundstage" . 
 
 
If the owner of those wharfedales is on this thread, we would all like to hear from you ..dB

 

[wualta]

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by nick n /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
1) And bass, there's bass. PHEW~!
 
2) Used a disc of super dense felt in the bottoms, with a tiny bass vent ( less than 1/8 inch ) that exits at the bottom rather than looking bad on the backside of the cup .
 
3) That felt came from a velcro-attached polishing pad ( auto store or hardware store ) just slice off the attached velcro.

 
1) Is that phewing because you feared a no-bass scenario and were relieved to find your fears groundless? or are you saying it's all bassy up in that joint?
 
2) It would actually behave differently if it was in the back of the cup. By making the air exit at the edge of the felt disc, you've forced all the air to move thicknesswise through the felt. Some more than others, but all at least a little.
 
3) Nice snag. Once again, cheap, easily-available damping material from an everyday source. That's shopping.


Quote:

1) 60mm thick and can't really compress it by hand that much it's so tight. 
 
2) I'd like to try an open back next time, can't recall how to bring out the bass on those though. That and how to make it not look stupid.

 
1) Wow! 60mm thick? Did you mean 6mm?
 
2) I applaud your ambition to go open-back. Bass is usually not a problem, since mid/treble backwave isn't adding to the brightness of the 'phone and there's no back pressure making the diaphragm think it's stiffer. How to not look stupid? I'm not your man for that.
 
 
Quote:

 
If the owner of those wharfedales is on this thread, we would all like to hear from you ..dB

We rilly would!
 

 

[nick n]

Oh did I put 60mm by mistake. I get so excited about felt there's the tendency to tell tall tales. I'll go back and edit that up.
 
Well the lathe may help the open back attempt not look too ridiculous and I promise to not put blue led lighting in them that always helps.
 
    Quote:Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
     1) Is that phewing because you feared a no-bass scenario and were relieved to find your fears groundless? or are you saying it's all   bassy up in that joint?
 I was used to constant struggle with the last project to bring out that bass ( AKA BASE in some lesser threads

but that's European bass I think)
     2) It would actually behave differently if it was in the back of the cup. By making the air exit at the edge of the felt disc, you've forced all the air to move thicknesswise through the felt. Some more than others, but all at least a little.
Pretty sure that the vent does get covered by the felt edge and exit like you said ,I  must have planned it like that  yup sounds good.
Directly through it would change things how theoretically/experientially in regards to chamber pressure or what, and resulting affect on sound is?
 
     3) Nice snag. Once again, cheap, easily-available damping material from an everyday source. That's shopping.
Oh I can be cheap at times especially when they were free , not 5 finger free but found them in the bottom of the project parts bins I have. If space is limited I would recommend trying them. You can almost knock on them and hear how good they are.
 
 
Guess what I got left in the dust bidding on.... Was the third last bidder, with money I don't have even but some crazy little piece of plastic lets me have.
They certainly pulled away at the last stretch I ran out of gas and sputtered to a slow crawl just before the finish line.
Check these gorgeous things out.
Screen grab rather than the typical ebay link for future generations. I wonder if it's someone in here:
I'm sad. Although rare, the final price is certainly something beyond my means for a while. Germanic Ebayhopfhorer.
Commence DROOLING

From all the posts I read these PMB500 are supposed to have the full square pads aren't they? This one has the "L" shaped on the same model#.
A later or earlier version? A retrofit/repair job?
 
wow that's $491.43 Canadian PLUS the quoted $67 Canadian SHIPPING = $560 roughly. That's a lot of empties.