[gurubhai]

Can anyone recommend circumaural angled earpads( ala O2,LCD2) which will fit the T30?

 

[NAYOSO]

@rythmdevils thank you! I think I ever tried NAD RP18 kapton with ATH W11 pad and it sounds nice
@nickhen hmm my NAD is mylar version but I'll try it thanks!

 

[gurubhai]

^The best pads IME for mylar NADs are the newer LCD2 earpads. O2 pads are nice too, but the LCD2 pads are cheaper & retain better treble presence.

 

[NAYOSO]

newer LCD2 pad?
I'll try it too
thanks gurubhai

 

[Zeroblade]

Quote:

Perhaps these images would help?

<images>
 
I also cleaned up the copper contact rings to get rib of any residue that might have been interfering with the signal..dB
 

I'm quite afraid of messing with them any further, unfortunately. I already melted through an Ultrasone driver's PCB once and no way I'm going to let myself blow up another good pair of cans. Thanks for the advice though.

 

[scompton]

Quote:

Can anyone recommend circumaural angled earpads( ala O2,LCD2) which will fit the T30?

 
I don't know how angled pads would work since the headband has not swivel in it.  Either the thicker part of the pads would just compress more, or you thin part won't seal well.   I'm still very happy with the XB700 pads.

 

[gurubhai]

^There IS a slight swivel between the driver-baffle unit & outer cup. Its not much but I was hoping to put it to some use.
 
Where can one find the XB700 pads BTW ?

 

[scompton]

I bought them from someone here.  I know I saw them on Sony's web site at one time, but I can't find it now.

 

[ilikepie116]

Seems like to be a free for all in this thread, so here it goes...
 
I'm having some problems with my DIY SFI orthos / Koss Pro4AAA phones. 120ohm drivers.
 
1. Not as big of a problem as #2... but there's too much bass for my taste. Clean sounding bass at that, but still.
 
2. Seemingly HUGE peak in upper midrange, somewhere between 2 and 5k. Almost un-listenable without EQ.
 
 
If I leave the back open, I still get the annoying peak in the upper range, but not as bad.
I'm still trying to figure out why this occurs on both of my SFI diy phones. One pair open back, one closed.
 
Some of my ideas:
- Dampening foam is too thick/microcell/not right type. Foam in the picture is from a Tempurpedic pillow.
- Different dampening? Wool? Tissue??
- closed back (obvious negative for this type of driver, but my open backs have the same annoying peak)
- sticky felt circle covering the center hole (does not seem to make a difference)
- reflective surfaces?
- Does using blu-tak to "mount" the drivers creates resonance?
- Drivers themselves?
 
Any suggestions/experience with this type of problem?
 
(These settings in iTunes make the 'phones much more listenable.)

 

[nickchen]

Quote:

Where can one find the XB700 pads BTW ?

I've been lurking here unsuccessfully for those as spare part as well. But I am patient, it's only a question of time until the first defective XB700s can be sniped for a few bucks.
 
 

 

[gurubhai]

^ Can you be doubly patient & get one for me too.

 

[nickchen]

 

[MDR30]

I'd like to make this post a small tribute to the man and headphone that started this thread, Mr Wualta and the Yamaha HP1 respectively. His advice and encouragement is much appreciated, let it be known.
 
I recently acquired a HP1 and must say it sounded splendid from the very first note. Modding was far from my mind, and several weeks later I still think it's performing well. Further damping with wool felt might improve things even further, but I don't want to risk loosing the sense of space and airiness. It's balanced from bass to treble with a very smooth reproduction across the spectrum. No disturbing peaks and valleys. And the ortho transient management is all there: check out the Brazilian drums and percussion on Sergio Mendes' early records Fool on the Hill and Crystal Illusions - wonderful. The sound of these recordings with an orchestra captured in the studio acoustics is seductive. Also wonderful vocals by Lani Hall and Karen Phillip. This CD is a good introduction:
 

 
However, the HP1 wasn't in pristine condition. The headband was broken and wrinkled, and the movement of the cups restricted.
 
The plastic rim of the suede headband had cracked, a common problem with the HP1, so I thought I'd try to fix it. It wasn't as bad as on the photo below, but still obvious enough to be irritating.
 

 
I figured I neeed a strong, thin and flexible support to glue between suede and plastic, something like this:
 

 
Yes, an ordinary nylon cable binder. I cut the end off, trimmed the ends with a sharp knife and fixed it between the rim and the suede with super glue.
 

 
I also wanted to get rid of the wrinkles and to get the suede and the plastic rim into the right shape. I used the nearest thing I could find for support - a remote control. The plastic rims are spaced with a tooth pick.
 

 
A minute or so in the hot steam of the shower made the headband damp and supple.
 

 
Next step was to dry the headband with a hair dryer. This makes the plastic rim soft so it adapts to the shape of the headband, and stretches the suede. Be very careful not to overheat the plastic rim. When it cools down it stays in shape. The HP1 now looks fine.
 

 
But it squeeks. Faust3D writes in wikiphonia:
"That ball joint pivots in a small, loose-fitting metal socket inside the earcup and makes loud, annoying clicking and clunking sounds as the headphones are settled on the listener's head. The sounds are carried through the entire structure; it's a sensation not unlike flicking a plastic ruler held clenched in the teeth. Not a problem if the listener holds still, but disconcerting, especially at first. Performing the damping mods described elsewhere usually solves this problem."
 
Lubrication will help, and is also good for preventing accidental breakage if a joint gets stuck. Graphite is the thing. All you need is a knife, a pencil and an old envelope.
 

 
With the damping foam in place in the cup there's no risk putting some graphite powder in the joint. Move it around a bit and it's done, a quiet and soft joint.
 

 
The problem with the HP1 is to find a place to keep it where headband and joints are protected. The best solutions are often simple.
 

 
Yes, a plastic ruler and convenience tissue, sold in rolls.

 

[wualta]

Thank you for both the kind words and the excellent repair/refurbishment tips. I'm especially fond of the headstrap repairs, and I can easily imagine owners wanting to pay you to repair their HP-1s.
 
I too am a fan of Sergio Mendes.

 

[rhythmdevils]

Maybe this is old news, but did you all know that the T50rp has vents in the baffle?  It has one little hole right above the driver that's completely open going from backwave to the ear chamber, and apparently it has 3 other holes around the driver which are covered by the dust cover that's over the driver (which since it's a dust cover, probably doesn't do much in the way of a filter) 
 
The T50rp modders seem to be getting great bass response leaving these open.  Could explain the comments people have made about the modded T50rp's soundstage abilities.  Pretty cool!