[NAYOSO]

Hmmm I think that's impossible wualta

 

[Armaegis]

The key everyone seems to forget is to take a step away from the electromechanical impedances and take a moment or two instead to imbibe upon biochemical impediments... your music is guaranteed to vastly improve.

 

[dogwan]

Quote:

Can anyone help nayoso turn his T50RP into an LCD-2v1 with v2 pads?

Sure, but it'll cost ya'!
 
Send me the T50RP's and a deposit of oh.....say $850, and I'll get right on it. I'll bill for the remainder.

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Hmmm I think that's impossible wualta

I'm glad to hear you say that. You did set the bar awfully high, wanting to incorporate a major characteristic of a $1k open 'phone into a $75 closed one.
 
My feeling is the closest you can come will be to kill as much midrange and treble reflection in the T50RP's driver cup as possible, either by using dense fiberglass or one of the new hotshot absorbing foams. The surfaces already look nicely roughed up so no specular reflection will take place; all that's left is to mop up the mess with an absorbent medium. If there's enough bass to have a little left over to sacrifice for airiness-enhancement, try opening a hole in the baffle and damping it, in the style of AKG in the K501/601/701. This would be the equivalent of the passive radiators used in the earlier Sextett K240 design.
 
Speaking of Audeze, Dr. Don the Ortho Whisper's got his review of the LCD-3 up. It may not be affordable, but think of it as a demonstrator, a very loud statement of what an ortho-driver headphone can do.

 

[NAYOSO]

Thank you wualta I'll try it
about the LCD3 I never tried it but some people in my country say they would buy it at the end of the year

 

[Kabeer]

If anyone in London buys the lcd3 lemme know . I would really like to hear it. I could bring round a vintage ortho or two to compare.

 

[dBel84]

wualta - regarding the question of the magnet placement, I asked many questions but this one slipped my mind at the time. So I really don't know. ( funnily it was one of the first things Kabeer asked me too ) ..dB

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

wualta - regarding the question of the magnet placement, I asked many questions but this one slipped my mind at the time. So I really don't know. ( funnily it was one of the first things Kabeer asked me too ) ..dB

Dont need no ribbon legends, Audeze shudda hired me . I would have make and LCD-blutak model mate

 

[nick n]

So as I once read a few thousand pages ago, electret-speak is welcomed moreso in here than the "high" end forums, or more appreciated.
After a wait full of anxiety those PWB Stats arrived with original box and papers from the Alan fellow across the seas in England. 50 days for shipping, and I thought yeah righhhhht I just sent some $ for beer fund and a laugh.
 But that's how long it took. Alan is a stand-up guy.
I'll see about scanning the paperwork soon which lists all the specs, a sheet with all the model names and specs as well.
Turns out my hunch was correct these are electrets, mint condition, and they match exactly the other pair I somehow scored that didn't want to drive out of the AT-705 box very well.
 Giving them a run-in and wow the timbre and space they have.Incredible.  These must be a good representation of the Belt-ism tweaks. Hooked up to a small output Realistic SA-102 but the specs say 5w or higher, so off to look at another amp ( too lazy to recap the tube right now ).
 
One quick question, the 2 sets of speaker wires out of the back are grey, but each set has a grey wire with a black line.
 I opened up the transformer box ( man they are sizeable ) and the wiring has the plain grey wires of each channel leading to a small capacitor (? no typical resistor stripe markings ) just before attaching to the transformer. The black striped grey wires go directly to the transformer ( all wires via a small mounting pcb board ) I have these hooked up as the black striped wires being the negatives.  So far other than lower volume output ( which I assume to be the larger sized transformers vs. the AT-705 box's ones ) they are gorgeous sounding. ( cringe at that word but it fits )
 
-----With this hookup at least they need much more juice than the Audio Technica 705's or the Stax SR5 off this amp. Maybe they are backwards, so before I swap them around:
------Primarily what I need to know: Is there any danger to hooking them up with the black striped wires as the positives, which would shoot them right to the transformer without the capacitor thing .
 
or should I wait to get these on a better output amp first to see.
It is british wiring, so it may be completely backwards

 
Already had some great advice from Armaegis, and hoping there was a definitive transformer hookup person in here to say for sure.
 
One curious note, the inside of the transformer box has the sinks of the transformers set into a layer of what appears to be parrafin wax melted into the entire bottom of the housing as I assume a doping replacement.( another tweak?) Someone prior had put feet on what I take to be the top of the box so it was upside down and I was What'ing the design. These should have that at the bottom otheriwse they will drop out ... not like that's valuable info at all nobody owns these.
 Scans and pictures to follow sometime soonish.
 
Thanks.
Anyone looking to sell off the other PWB models ( working )please let me know.
 
These are definitely going to get the rainbow foil and creme samples applied.
 
Oh and Frank Zappa's guitar says hello.
 

 

[Zeroblade]

Quote:

he might want to try and recoup that 50 euro and use it to ship em stateside. The problem was a contact issue - I had to open the drivers and solder a new "lead" from the wire entry point through the small joist and onto the driver itself. It is finicky but not impossible. The stock lead wire is super fine and with the movement at the pivot joint wears over time - I suspect there are a few YH5M's in the world with similar problems.  
 
If he is daunted by the prospect of opening them and fixing them, it will only cost him shipping to get it done..dB
 
edit  - I second Kabeer's recommendation [ ultra evil smiley grin ]

I've already done soldering where the wire's rusted out actually. These things are surprisingly well-built. No other issues in the cups asides the cable rust. Still not getting any better though. Turns out the point where the cable enters into the cup was the major cause. No idea how I can recable this and keep the wires and the neat stiff-yet-bendy flexible rubber thing perfectly intact so it doesn't really look like I recabled it though.
 
 
 

 

[Armaegis]

Has anyone with one of the older fostex ever tried double stacking the magnet behind the diaphragm?

 

[dBel84]

Perhaps these images would help?
 

 

 

 
 
I also cleaned up the copper contact rings to get rib of any residue that might have been interfering with the signal..dB
 
Quote:

I've already done soldering where the wire's rusted out actually. These things are surprisingly well-built. No other issues in the cups asides the cable rust. Still not getting any better though. Turns out the point where the cable enters into the cup was the major cause. No idea how I can recable this and keep the wires and the neat stiff-yet-bendy flexible rubber thing perfectly intact so it doesn't really look like I recabled it though.
 
 
 

 

 

[NAYOSO]

Finally, I got a NAD RP18 after missing kabeer's
but I need a replacement pad, has anyone ever tried hifiman HE series pad?
thanks

 

[rhythmdevils]

Pads to try:  W11, L3000, SA5000.  I have some jMoney pads that are awesome but I dont think he makes them this way anymore. 
 
Oh, and congrats on having what was the biggest ortho headphone driver until about 2009!  That should get you some chicks if nothing else. 

 

[nickchen]

DT880 pads also work very nice with the Kapton version RP18, and they are cheap & comfortable. I'd rate them better suited than all the others meanwhile, especially as they provide a better accentuated presence section and better SS.
 
Compared to the usual contenders, Backwards damping needs to be kept quite open then though: