Orthodynamic Roundup
Oct 28, 2011 at 10:07 AM Post #18,211 of 27,177
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
[Hardware Store Adventure photos]

You're at the point I was several years ago, when any trip to any store was basically a psychedelic trip to see everything in a new, shall we say porous, light. Dollar stores are especially fun, but hardware stores hold some interesting surprises, especially in the weatherstripping section.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Brilliant paper damping minds think alike.  I agree, the paper needs to be pressed firmly against the ...  open back frankenphone world war II torture device. 
 
Only thing I can think of is to call an online art store and ask them to go through their fancy paper stacks and tell me what happens when they blow through each one. 


Oh, those paperdamping minds! what would we do without them! As for nonwovens, real paper is nonwoven, of course, so any paper qualifies. Whether any paper is porous enough for damping duty, I dunno. I tried vacuum cleaner bags without success, but I don't recall trying coffee filters. What the polyester stuff Fostex and A-T used was, I still don't know. It resembles Tyvek, but Tyvek isn't, afaik, porous. I suspect it's used as a filter medium in some industrial process, but it would be interesting to finally know.
 


Quote:
Right, so I have a pair of Realistic Pro 30's, and lately the right channels been going on and off whenever I move around. Based on my experience, this happens often when the contacts are loose and/or rusty so I open them up, they look fine save for the rust which I polish off. Slap the cups back on, and it's still there. Moving the cable and turning the plug themselves seem to cause the buzzing/dead right channel too. Are there any other things I could do to remedy this?

If the solder joints inside the cups are solid, rust (rust? got a photo?) isn't the problem. I suppose it's possible the cable's wires are broken right at the plug, despite the excellent strain relief. But both 'phones? Not so likely. I like Nick N's suggestion of trying both Pro 30s on another jack. I assume you've done the obvious and cleaned the plugs and the jack in question. It's also possible that the Pro 30's plug is just slightly too small for a tight fit.
 
Random Thought: would a "female jack" be a jill ?
 
Oct 28, 2011 at 11:12 AM Post #18,212 of 27,177
A fellow YH-5M owner is in need of help: Kabeer pointed me to a thread on an Italian forum, where the owner of a pair of YH-5M has one driver working only intermittently. He made the mistake of bringing them to a local repairman, who charged him 50€ (!) to fit a Koss (!) cable, without resolving the problem.
 
Kabeer mentioned that his pair had a similar problem, and he sent them to Don. Don, if you are reading this, do you remember what the problem was, and how did you fix it?
 
BTW - I'm still puzzled by how much I like my "new" T20v1, it's like rediscovering orthos all over again; any suggestions on where to "progress" from here? :D
 
Oct 28, 2011 at 12:14 PM Post #18,214 of 27,177
he might want to try and recoup that 50 euro and use it to ship em stateside. The problem was a contact issue - I had to open the drivers and solder a new "lead" from the wire entry point through the small joist and onto the driver itself. It is finicky but not impossible. The stock lead wire is super fine and with the movement at the pivot joint wears over time - I suspect there are a few YH5M's in the world with similar problems.  
 
If he is daunted by the prospect of opening them and fixing them, it will only cost him shipping to get it done..dB
 
edit  - I second Kabeer's recommendation [ ultra evil smiley grin ]
 
Oct 28, 2011 at 3:48 PM Post #18,216 of 27,177
The ortho whisperer strikes again...
ph34r.gif

 
Oct 30, 2011 at 11:01 AM Post #18,218 of 27,177
Hello I need some suggestions for upgrade from my modded T50RP
any recommendation?
I mostly listen to rock
Ortho that I've ever tried are Fostex T50RP,  Fostex T50, NAD RP18 (both mylar and kapton), Hifiman HE series, LCD2 and yamaha YH series
thanks
 
Oct 30, 2011 at 11:36 AM Post #18,219 of 27,177
You've tried the LCD2 and Hifiman orthos and neither seemed to be an upgrade from the T50rp? I dunno then... you're probably heading into electrostatics at that point.
 
Oct 30, 2011 at 11:55 AM Post #18,221 of 27,177
@armaegis LCD2 and Hifiman HE series definitely an upgrade form T50RP but I prefer vintage orthos
@wualta I think the airiness any solution? I'll show you my mod
IMG-20111016-00203.jpg
IMG-20111016-00202.jpg
IMG-20111016-00201.jpg
I used silicone based sealant to cover all the housing and cover 3/4 vent and I remove the cover of the driver and replace it with transpore tape
 

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