Orthodynamic Roundup
May 29, 2017 at 9:06 PM Post #24,826 of 27,185
Hey man, why you dragging me into this:)

On the 50's other than the recable, I used the melamine foam thing and it works a treat. Nothing else between the driver and the foam and no other damping materials in the cups.
 
May 29, 2017 at 9:18 PM Post #24,827 of 27,185
What was your source for the Mealmine foam, how thick?

One thing I forgot to mention , the cans likely have a thin white stock damping/tuning layer on the earside of the drivers in there, kinda like a damping dustguard thing.
I'd recommend leaving it in place. Pretty sure the low end might go bigger if you remove that.
I might be wrong.


So one orthonaut reply down, 3 or more to go.
 
May 29, 2017 at 9:20 PM Post #24,828 of 27,185
Thick enough to seat the driver properly. The magic eraser sponge was the source. I think it was Mr Clean.
 
May 29, 2017 at 9:27 PM Post #24,829 of 27,185
May 29, 2017 at 9:36 PM Post #24,830 of 27,185
Recycled beer bottles??? Hope thats Lucky Buda:)

That ought to bring out the highs:)
 
May 29, 2017 at 9:43 PM Post #24,831 of 27,185
If it were hemp based maybe.

more likely the crazy lows... :)


Hmm interesting you'd never know it from the texture here.
 
May 29, 2017 at 10:28 PM Post #24,832 of 27,185
Still contemplating the eiderdown. Scared to work with it though as the stuff flies everywhere.
 
May 29, 2017 at 10:43 PM Post #24,833 of 27,185
Thanks for the advice, I have been trying to search this thread with poor results, the new format has made it a pain in the a##. Do the vents at the back of the cups need to be sealed? I am a fan of dat planar bass so maybe leaving them open would be better? Going to fabric-land to hopefully find some arctic cotton. I also found an explanation on reverb that suggested sealing the driver to the baffle with blue tack. This is my third vintage orthodynamic and will be my tester. I also have an ath-2 and a kenwood kh-83 that are currently stock and sound great.
I guess my gen x status makes me one of the new wave of vintage orthodynamic fan. It makes it easy to understand how many traditions and methods have been lost to time. Making you old ****s spill the beans is impossible. Now that I am an old **** I understand how the sarcasm and anger come naturally. Here's to breaking the stale mold our parents so carefully crafted for us. I have also heard references to headphone wiki. The links all end at a out of service page. Has the information been transferred somewhere or is it lost forever?
Peace
 
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May 29, 2017 at 11:25 PM Post #24,834 of 27,185
do you mean wikiphonia? i think it's lost
 
May 30, 2017 at 3:32 PM Post #24,835 of 27,185
y50.jpg

Thanks for all the great information. nick n you were right, I could not wait for the new cable. I sacrificed an old rca to 3.5mm cable, cut off both ends, and soldered. Once again you were correct as I needed the magic sponge after to clean up all the flux and solder residue from my messy job. As you can see by the picture I crafted the "magic sponge" into disks. My first try was too thick so I sliced it thinner. A box opener sliced through the sponge like butter. You can see the dust guards that were right in front of the driver, I left them on.
Wow, what a difference I can see what all of the hype is about. These are now my, hardest to drive headphones. The highs roll off nicely right before they are irritating. The mids are very strong making vocals very clear. Best of all the bass is crispy and deep. Eq'ing the lows brings out impressive sub bass. Well worth the effort and they look stock, I even have the box. I plan on using these for quite some time as they are a vintage gem. Once again thanks to nick n and hutnicks for all of the valuable advice. The sponges are indeed magic.
 
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May 30, 2017 at 9:15 PM Post #24,836 of 27,185
oh nice work!
And especially thanks for the picture and update.
I'll have to stop by a local store and grab that exact same sponge to throw in the mod bins now.

Any idea roughly how thick the sponge ended up?
So you said too thick at first, was this just preventing proper cup closure after, or did it affect the sound, or both?

This mod has me realllly curious now.
Best of all totally reversible too
 
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May 30, 2017 at 10:20 PM Post #24,837 of 27,185
The sponge disks in the picture were too big for the cup to close. I would say it was about 5 mm thick before it would click in place, I cut at a angle away from the flat part of the sponge so it would be slightly coned in towards the center of the cup. I have been wondering if I should have filled that middle cavity with blue tack. A nod back to the days of using dynamat on the back of flimsy plastic cups. I left them playing all day and they seem to have cleared up even more. Or conversely they have been burned into my brain a bit more. It is amazing how those two magnetic disks can create such natural sound when charged. Voodoo man, just plain voodoo.
 
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Jun 3, 2017 at 3:45 PM Post #24,838 of 27,185
Hola, alguna recomendación: he conseguido un Technics EAH-830 lo deseo utilizar con Minidisc portátiles como un Kenwood DMC-Q77 es un equipo con amplificador integrado pero suena muy débil. Por ejemplo el Technics EAh-520 suena muy pero muy bien. Alguna recomendación, es necesario un amplificador, y que tipos o modelos de amplificador recomiendan.

Hi, any recommendation: I got a Technics EAH-830 I want to use with Minidisc portable as a Kenwood DMC-Q77 is a computer with integrated amplifier but it sounds very weak. For example the Technics EAh-520 sounds very, very good. Some recommendation, you need an amplifier, and what types or models of amplifier recommend.
 
Jun 8, 2017 at 6:42 PM Post #24,839 of 27,185
the EAH-520 is a dynamic. The 830 is an orthodynamic. I just checked some of my orthos with a fiio x1 and you definitely need an amp. My fiio e-12 brings them to a nice volume and is likely the cheapest portable option. The Mojo and Cayin c5 are some others. -/+ 11 volts at least. I have an onkyo integra vintage amp that brings everything to distortion levels.
Enjoy that clean ortho sound.
 

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