[takato14]

 

  It is a quilt batting material, there is A.Cotton ( 80% Cotton-20% Polyester ) and an A. Bamboo version (50% Natural Bamboo 50% Cotton) , basically a fuzzier felt type material, around the same thickness as felt. A.Bamboo is a little more transparent and slightly thinner, A.Cotton is slightly thicker and fuzzier.
They are my go-to in one form or another between the two of them usually things work out well, and of course in combination with other things often.
 
http://quiltparadise.ca/products/index.php?Category=Battings
 
http://store.hamelsfabrics.com/stores_app/Browse_dept_items.asp?Shopper_id=9719329333379719&Store_id=360&Page_id=17&categ_id=6118&parent_ids=0,87&name=Quilt+Batting+-+Arctic+Batting
 
The first link is the safest and cheapest i would guess ( hard to find decent links! )
If it is a real pain in the butt to source out PM me and I can send a bunch out to you on me  since it is relatively cheap and i get it by the metre/yard. Same two types as have been used in here to decent result.
 I will make a point of going out tomorrow and getting another yard or two of each to ensure I have enough for a lifetime of mods.
 
 
It was part of one of the  crucial keys in the main Memory Foam Mod T50rp  damping recently posted in the Incremental Mods Thread
 
By the way have you ever opened the TDS-7, it scares me. I have seen it open in pictures before and can tell where the tabs are but doing it is another intimidating factor, definitely need opening and tweaking, but I don't wish to botch it up! I can usually get into most things including trouble

 
 

  Thanks for explanation on A Bamboo. Wood need to see if I can find something here in europe.
I haven't opened any Amfiton yet. I was going to ask BMF if TDS-7 drivers could be transplanted to Takstar?
This weekend I got another ortho Universum 

 
I finally found the time to take a whack at my TDS-7. The set I have has been around the block many times from the look of them. Still, pictures may help you guys getting inside. Of interest, the outer headband support structure with metal (nickel?) is conductive to the side opposite the cable entry. Both "wire frames" are slotted in a pivoting mechanism and pop right out if aligned properly. 
 
Looks to me like a transplant could work but would require some re-tooling of the stock driver frames. I do not think they would fit inside a Takstar HI-2050. The TDS-15 drivers I transplanted into HI-2050 just barely fit without the need for any re-tooling.
 
The magnets were not glued in place and I came close to destroying the diaphragm on the side in the pictures, below. Luckily, all I did was dent the exterior membrane a little.
 

The rear half of the cup pops off using a flathead screwdriver as a lever.
 

The wire "super structure" pops into the pivots on each side where the wires are soldered.
 

another view
 

O.K....one more
 

Pretty
 

I suspect the single screw on the left is stock and the other 3 are "make do's."
 

The ear side of the driver. Someone before me glued plastic onto the frame as a baffle.
 

Clear view of the pivots and "hot" wire frame.
 

Must remember to super glue those magnets in place after making sure they are situated to oppose one another.
 
~ BMF

Interesting, another rectangular driver. Thanks for the photos. 

 

[hrbballman]

So....did anyone on the Ortho forum win the Yh-5Ms that were on ebay?  I'd love to know if they sound any good or if they are just a showboat of a headphone. 

 

[BucketInABucket]

  So....did anyone on the Ortho forum win the Yh-5Ms that were on ebay?  I'd love to know if they sound any good or if they are just a showboat of a headphone. 

According to Takato they're just a collector's piece and sound horrible.

 

[nick n]

huh ?????
Has he actually physically had them to listen to for a while?
The main thread on these says otherwise in the first post from what I recall, it certainly says nothing about horrible

 

[BucketInABucket]

  huh ?????
Well has he actually physically had them to listen to for a while or not?
The main thread on these says otherwise in the first post from what I recall, it certainly says nothing about horrible

That's why I put 'according' in my reply, as it's his opinion. I haven't physically tried them so I can't say that I have an opinion on them, but other sources say that they apparently compliment the HP/YH-1 well as they're brighter.

 

[takato14]

 

  huh ?????
Well has he actually physically had them to listen to for a while or not?
The main thread on these says otherwise in the first post from what I recall, it certainly says nothing about horrible

That's why I put 'according' in my reply, as it's his opinion. I haven't physically tried them so I can't say that I have an opinion on them, but other sources say that they apparently compliment the HP/YH-1 well as they're brighter.

What, they're not bright at all, they're literally the darkest orthodynamic ever made, just look at the FR chart, the treble is down 30dB by 10kHz:
 

 
Collector KANA has them and gave them a very poor rating on the sound... but unfortunately she gives no specifics. Assuming the measurements are accurate, I suspect that the miniscule driver has such low excursion that they can't even come close to producing proper treble.
 
EDIT: Wow, $560, that's the cheapest I've ever seen them go for. Why are they so valuable anyways, is it really just the scarcity?

 

[Hutnicks]

  What, they're not bright at all, they're literally the darkest orthodynamic ever made, just look at the FR chart, the treble is down 30dB by 10kHz:
 

 
Collector KANA has them and gave them a very poor rating on the sound... but unfortunately she gives no specifics. Assuming the measurements are accurate, I suspect that the miniscule driver has such low excursion that they can't even come close to producing proper treble.
 
EDIT: Wow, $560, that's the cheapest I've ever seen them go for. Why are they so valuable anyways, is it really just the scarcity?

That has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the size of the driver on an orthodynamic.

 

[takato14]

 

  What, they're not bright at all, they're literally the darkest orthodynamic ever made, just look at the FR chart, the treble is down 30dB by 10kHz:
 

 
Collector KANA has them and gave them a very poor rating on the sound... but unfortunately she gives no specifics. Assuming the measurements are accurate, I suspect that the miniscule driver has such low excursion that they can't even come close to producing proper treble.
 
EDIT: Wow, $560, that's the cheapest I've ever seen them go for. Why are they so valuable anyways, is it really just the scarcity?

That has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the size of the driver on an orthodynamic.

It most certainly does. If you keep the driver membrane at the same thickness but reduce the overall surface area it will have a LOT less excursion. I highly doubt Yamaha was able to make a diaphragm thin enough to completely counteract this in the 80s. This could be the exact reason why they failed as a product and never left Japan.

 

[Armaegis]

And flat down to 10Hz? Uh huh, something fishy in those measurements...

 

[Hutnicks]

  It most certainly does. If you keep the driver membrane at the same thickness but reduce the overall surface area it will have a LOT less excursion. I highly doubt Yamaha was able to make a diaphragm thin enough to counteract this in the 80s. This could be the exact reason why they failed as a product and never left Japan.

No way. You have completey missed the entire point of a planar driver.

 

[takato14]

 

  It most certainly does. If you keep the driver membrane at the same thickness but reduce the overall surface area it will have a LOT less excursion. I highly doubt Yamaha was able to make a diaphragm thin enough to counteract this in the 80s. This could be the exact reason why they failed as a product and never left Japan.

No way.

Yes, way. If this were false then there would be absolutely no benefit to thinner substrates and the LCD-3 would sound exactly like the LCD-2.

 

[Armaegis]

  It most certainly does. If you keep the driver membrane at the same thickness but reduce the overall surface area it will have a LOT less excursion. I highly doubt Yamaha was able to make a diaphragm thin enough to completely counteract this in the 80s. This could be the exact reason why they failed as a product and never left Japan.

 
You have the wrong understanding of the the word excursion... and you're drawing false conclusions from the erroneous assumption.

 

[takato14]

  And flat down to 10Hz? Uh huh, something fishy in those measurements...

Actually, its flat to 20Hz, look at the grid a bit more closely and you'll see the line only goes to 20.

 

[takato14]

 

  It most certainly does. If you keep the driver membrane at the same thickness but reduce the overall surface area it will have a LOT less excursion. I highly doubt Yamaha was able to make a diaphragm thin enough to completely counteract this in the 80s. This could be the exact reason why they failed as a product and never left Japan.

 
You have the wrong understanding of the the word excursion... and you're drawing false conclusions from the erroneous assumption.

If you really think I'm wrong, enlighten me.
 
My understanding of it is that simply, excursion is the movement of the diaphragm. The electric signal passed through the voice coil causes movement when immersed in a magnetic field. Since the driver is clamped at the edges, the diaphragm flexes, causing a trampoline-like movement. Having a higher thickness to size ratio should adversely affect how much the diaphragm can flex and thus how far it can excurse. 

 

[gurubhai]

Excursion has nothing to do with the properties of a diaphragm, its merely a function of the push/pull force applied on the membrane. One can lift a stone to the same height regardless of its weight, provided one has enough muscle power.Regardless of its thickness/weight, all diaphragms would manage the desired excursion if you power it adequately.
 
The benefits of a thinner diaphragm are due to it having lesser inertia and greater agility. Its ability to accelerate suddenly, reach the desired point, turn back just as quickly and then return back to the original position. A thicker/heavier diaphragm would find it much more difficult to manage.