[longuito]

Well, the news unfortunately keep getting worse: An hour ago,as I "opened" the good driver to see what the wires and coils should look like on the other "broken" side, when I put it back together now it doesn't work. I've tied reassembling it several times and nothing. I now officially need a complete set. I will never open another driver of this type again... What a sad way to start the weekend...
 
I know this may be borderline sacrilege, but has anyone retrofitted the DK830;s or DK720's with non-orthodynamic speakers? Until I can get a new set of drivers I would like to still use the cans. Advice would be much appreciated. Thanks and regards,

 

[takato14]

Before you assume it's dead: take an emery board or fine grit sandpaper to both the ring and pin of the driver. Both of these can oxidize over time and interfere with a proper connection to the diaphragm, and this will help clean the gunk off.
 
There's also a small paperboard ring that goes between the diaphragm and the magnet at the center to give the pin something to contact to, so make sure that's there. I accidentally sold a driver without this little ring to someone and had to take it back because it didn't make sound at all. Fabricated a new one and it worked good as new.
 
Cheers and good luck. 

 

[nick n]

If you have trouble posting pictures due to low post count ( new members need a few posts before they can put pics ) link it or send it to me in a personal message and I will post it up.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

  Well, the news unfortunately keep getting worse: An hour ago,as I "opened" the good driver to see what the wires and coils should look like on the other "broken" side, when I put it back together now it doesn't work. I've tied reassembling it several times and nothing. I now officially need a complete set. I will never open another driver of this type again... What a sad way to start the weekend...
 
I know this may be borderline sacrilege, but has anyone retrofitted the DK830;s or DK720's with non-orthodynamic speakers? Until I can get a new set of drivers I would like to still use the cans. Advice would be much appreciated. Thanks and regards,

 
Some pictures would certainly help. Taking the driver apart can be done without damaging it, I've done this several times. As Takato points out, those cardboard spacers are important - I suppose any fluid inside the driver could easily ruin them too, so then you need to cut new spacers if they are missing.
 
About the dynamic driver question - German Maestro (previously MB Quart, previously Peerless MB, etc) still makes this kind of headset (but unfortunately not the amazing orthodynamic drivers).

 

[longuito]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Any comments would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance,

 

[dBel84]

You should be able to fix this with conductive ink patch and not much loss in fidelity

 

[kalbee]

My... ain't that a beauty.
Sure hope it gets fixed!
 
Sorry for my useless comment D:

 

[iQEM]

look like that both of the trace have lost a small amount of it part, longuito..
but as Don said, it can be fixed with conductive ink..its not gonna be an easy task though...
well anyway, goodluck with it..

 

[nick n]

kalbee is right it is a beauty !
 
Fixable for sure. Another option is this very very thin in those spots like hardly any.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/epoxies/adhesive/silver-conductive-epoxy/
 
Ink might be easier.
If you use ink you can put a pile of it on something then use a needle head to put miniscule amounts instead of the pen tip. it might be easier to get smaller there that way. Never tried the pen so I have no clue about precision on the tip.  The others can speak to that.
 
 
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/silver-conductive-8420-p/
 
I'm sure there are other brands.
Wish i used the ink myself but can't go back in time.
 
 
OH one other thing. When re-soldering the tabs there slip something underneath between the tab and magnet face ( tin foil ?) so you don't get get a splatter of solder in a hole by accident and start all over again

 

[longuito]

Dear Nick,
 
Thanks for your comments and pointers, although I'm not sure I understood your first line with the epoxy. If you look closely at the photos you'll see that I already tried a copper conductive paint (the kind that's used to repair the broken lines on automotive rear window defrosters), but apparently it didn't seem to work. I don't know if I didn't cover the right places or if the paint I used was not adequate.
 
In any case, dBel has kindly offered to try reapiring them for me but I would have to send them to him and then get them back. If you or someone else could be more specific as to where I should try to apply this paint (I have already ordered it from Amazon - should be getting to me within the next 10 days), I would really appreciate it.
 
On another thought, in case of catastrophic failure, I was perusing through ebay and found these:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360803457049&ssPageName=ADME:X:BOCOR:US:1123
 
He accepted an offer for USD 75.00, but I have not pulled the trigger yet because I have not been able to find out their specs, so if someone in this thread knows I would highly appreciate the input. Basically I'm looking for a drop-in, plug and play replacement, such as the PMB or Elektronika for under USD 100.00. I don;t know if its'too much to ask but any pointer would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[GREQ]

  Dear Nick,
 
Thanks for your comments and pointers, although I'm not sure I understood your first line with the epoxy. If you look closely at the photos you'll see that I already tried a copper conductive paint (the kind that's used to repair the broken lines on automotive rear window defrosters), but apparently it didn't seem to work. I don't know if I didn't cover the right places or if the paint I used was not adequate.
 
In any case, dBel has kindly offered to try reapiring them for me but I would have to send them to him and then get them back. If you or someone else could be more specific as to where I should try to apply this paint (I have already ordered it from Amazon - should be getting to me within the next 10 days), I would really appreciate it.
 
On another thought, in case of catastrophic failure, I was perusing through ebay and found these:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360803457049&ssPageName=ADME:X:BOCOR:US:1123
 
He accepted an offer for USD 75.00, but I have not pulled the trigger yet because I have not been able to find out their specs, so if someone in this thread knows I would highly appreciate the input. Basically I'm looking for a drop-in, plug and play replacement, such as the PMB or Elektronika for under USD 100.00. I don;t know if its'too much to ask but any pointer would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I say get the Fostex anyway, mod it, and you'll have a headphone that sounds about $300.

 

[takato14]

Originally Posted by GREQ /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
I say get the Fostex anyway, mod it, and you'll have a headphone that sounds about $300.

+1

 

[nick n]

+2
 
yeah why not get the T20. I think the only real difference in there is that the rear cup hanger post in the cups is not capped off there might be some other slight thing. I recall someone modding them up nicely close enough to the T50 to be worthy. Maybe they will see this post because i forget who it was.
 
Stock pads for the T20 may not be the best  but that is later if you even do it.
 
Hold off on adding any more to the drivers to patch them because once it is put  on ,going back and redoing it if it doesn't work again may be difficult

 

[Armaegis]

T20 vs T50... different colour sliders, no plastic cap over the cup screw that connects to the headband, and a mesh instead of felt over the bass vents

 

[takato14]

  T20 vs T50... different colour sliders, no plastic cap over the cup screw that connects to the headband, and a mesh instead of felt over the bass vents

I thought the T20 had a circular driver...
 

 
Like that.