[iQEM]

yeah, i figure out about that fact about retractable adapter from wikiphonia later...

 

[ericj]

Well I shortened the cable on my T10 and then discovered that the cable wasn't the issue. A slight tweak to the angle of the positive terminal on the right driver brought back the sound. I hope this doesn't become a bigger issue. I think we know now why the T10 is so rare.

Also took a whack at damping it. Transpore on the magnet, stock fiberglass puck,1/8" air filter foam, stock foam, and micropore over the back vent. Very sharp with plenty of bass but the treble may be too much.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well I shortened the cable on my T10 and then discovered that the cable wasn't the issue. A slight tweak to the angle of the positive terminal on the right driver brought back the sound. I hope this doesn't become a bigger issue. I think we know now why the T10 is so rare. Also took a whack at damping it. Transpore on the magnet, stock fiberglass puck,1/8" air filter foam, stock foam, and micropore over the back vent. Very sharp with plenty of bass but the treble may be too much.

Are your terminal rings brass or nickel plated? I'm willing to bet a fancy donut that they are brass. You probably have a spot of corrosion that raised the ring enough break the contact. I've also seen where the corrosion pierces the diaphragm and shorts the driver. The third short can occur in the dead center of the driver where the trace gets ripped off or damaged just enough to allow the trace wire to short between the two magnets. Vigorous application of Deoxit and Deoxit Gold to the rings and a drop of spread super glue solved the shorts issues with no detrimental effect on the sound sig.

I tried the Oz felt, biscuit, nickel sized piece of Moorbrook with and without Transpore tape. The T10 seem to be rather immune to the effect of Transpore tape on the driver. I think the magnet vents are big enough that enough of the Transpore pores are just blown open. The Yammie drivers were extremely sensitive to it and I plan to try it on the T20s, but it was no effect on T10s. I need a small reflex tape dot for my T10s to bring the highs up a tad. The stock biscuit blocks all but two vent slots on each side so 4 are open, but it is against the back of the cup so I think the Oz felt has some room to move away from the driver and that was the magic tweak it needed to allow me to open up the stage.

The SPC cable really didn't effect the highs as much as I had hoped. They're a little more extended, but still recessed and underdamped. The new cable really brought the bass back up though, allowing me to be more aggressive on the dampening to get the highs back without sacrificing the bass. I have a stock T10 and my recabled T10 dampened the same way and the recabled ones had the shorted drivers, but they have a lot more bass. Perceived volume on both is the same.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are your terminal rings brass or nickel plated? I'm willing to bet a fancy donut that they are brass. You probably have a spot of corrosion that raised the ring enough break the contact. I've also seen where the corrosion pierces the diaphragm and shorts the driver. The third short can occur in the dead center of the driver where the trace gets ripped off or damaged just enough to allow the trace wire to short between the two magnets. Vigorous application of Deoxit and Deoxit Gold to the rings and a drop of spread super glue solved the shorts issues with no detrimental effect on the sound sig.

I haven't unclamped my drivers or really inspected them very closely but the solder terminals seemed to be plated. I suppose they could just have a good coating of solder. The "ALUMINUM SOLDER ONLY" label was present on both drivers fwiw.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I tried the Oz felt, biscuit, nickel sized piece of Moorbrook with and without Transpore tape. The T10 seem to be rather immune to the effect of Transpore tape on the driver. I think the magnet vents are big enough that enough of the Transpore pores are just blown open. The Yammie drivers were extremely sensitive to it and I plan to try it on the T20s, but it was no effect on T10s. I need a small reflex tape dot for my T10s to bring the highs up a tad. The stock biscuit blocks all but two vent slots on each side so 4 are open, but it is against the back of the cup so I think the Oz felt has some room to move away from the driver and that was the magic tweak it needed to allow me to open up the stage.

The transpore seems to be doing more than enough here. And like i said, there's possibly too much treble. The treble on my T10 modded the way i described is very sharp. Sharp like the reasonably priced tosagata knife i bought last week.

Those big vents do mean that the first layer of damping has to be kept from flapping in the breeze, though. Some (particularly very thin) damping materials have proven to be just too floppy for big holes, but usually mechanical pressure is all it takes to keep the first layer from moving. My rule of thumb is that if i don't have to hold the cup closed to get the screws to engage, there isn't enough stuff in there.

And yet there is more than enough bass.

They are however a bear to drive. The Bijou was at it's limits trying to make them go loud.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif I haven't unclamped my drivers or really inspected them very closely but the solder terminals seemed to be plated. I suppose they could just have a good coating of solder. The "ALUMINUM SOLDER ONLY" label was present on both drivers fwiw. The transpore seems to be doing more than enough here. And like i said, there's possibly too much treble. The treble on my T10 modded the way i described is very sharp. Sharp like the reasonably priced tosagata knife i bought last week. Those big vents do mean that the first layer of damping has to be kept from flapping in the breeze, though. Some (particularly very thin) damping materials have proven to be just too floppy for big holes, but usually mechanical pressure is all it takes to keep the first layer from moving. My rule of thumb is that if i don't have to hold the cup closed to get the screws to engage, there isn't enough stuff in there. And yet there is more than enough bass. They are however a bear to drive. The Bijou was at it's limits trying to make them go loud.

Nice knife. I love Japanese hand tools.

My dampening material isn't flopping, but any tighter and I didn't like the sound, midrange was negatively effected. I'm going to try a DuraPore dot in the center covering about 35% of the driver.

I'm leaving the back vents open, the bass leak is good for tuning and it really keeps the closed can syndrome from creeping in.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nice knife. I love Japanese hand tools.

I like that i have a tool that still bears the marks of the tools that created it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif My dampening material isn't flopping, but any tighter and I didn't like the sound, midrange was negatively effected. I'm going to try a DuraPore dot in the center covering about 35% of the driver. I'm leaving the back vents open, the bass leak is good for tuning and it really keeps the closed can syndrome from creeping in.

It might just be a personal idiosyncracy but i prefer damping applied in even layers with 100% coverage, with reflex dots covering just a few holes a notable exception.

I probably should have got in on the exotic fabrics when they were on offer.

I think may be seeing some of the same midrange issue as you mention. I'm by no means done, but these are better than they were.

I don't happen to have a problem with headphones that have minimal headstage, so vent damping is just something i always do.

 

[mypasswordis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj It might just be a personal idiosyncracy but i prefer damping applied in even layers with 100% coverage, with reflex dots covering just a few holes a notable exception.

That's how I damp too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj I probably should have got in on the exotic fabrics when they were on offer.

I tried to get in on ludoo's "last" group buy but waited for quite awhile and realized it wouldn't happen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj I don't happen to have a problem with headphones that have minimal headstage, so vent damping is just something i always do.

It's not just headstage with vent damping, imo. Closed headphones just sound closed and damped vents are a pretty good approximation of that. Sometimes you just gotta have more bass, though.

I'm going to felt up the backs of the ET1000 to try and develop more pressure in the cups, but it's already fully open.

 

[orthohead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif That's how I damp too.

This method doesn't really bode well f you are trying to get the maximum out of an ortho. There is a method to the madness in using donuts and pucks..

Quote:

It's not just headstage with vent damping, imo. Closed headphones just sound closed and damped vents are a pretty good approximation of that. Sometimes you just gotta have more bass, though.

Gross generalization..which you wouldn't be making if you weren't using the damping method that you subscribe to, using full layers of damping material. A properly executed closed headphone will sound quite good with enough headstage to satisfy most. Sure it won't give you the feeling of being in an arena like the HD800, but that can get distracting at times, losing focus.

 

[mypasswordis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by orthohead /img/forum/go_quote.gif A properly executed closed headphone will sound quite good with enough headstage to satisfy most.

Send me a "properly" executed closed headphone that sounds good with good headstage and I'll believe you. It will be hard, I hate closed headphones.

 

[orthohead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Send me a "properly" executed closed headphone that sounds good with good headstage and I'll believe you. It will be hard, I hate closed headphones.

haha...i wouldn't send you one, but by looking through this thread there are already some great examples of what probably are 'well executed' closed headphones..

 

[mypasswordis]

Uh, most orthos aren't closed? The T40v1 is one of the few, and it's the only closed headphone I've heard that I like. And only after modding.

 

[orthohead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Uh, most orthos aren't closed? The T40v1 is one of the few, and it's the only closed headphone I've heard that I like. And only after modding.

The DIY ones look quite well done..those were the ones i was referring to. The T50RP isn't too bad actually after some modding.

 

[mypasswordis]

The T50RP isn't terrible after modding until you compare it to other headphones (most other orthos, 'stats) or real life. Of course I'm referring to these in their stock enclosures, which frankly suck. There are several frequency response graphs out there that confirm my suspicion that bass and treble are quite rolled off in stock form, and there is not much you can do about it. The midrange is nothing special, either.

 

[orthohead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif The midrange is nothing special, either.

I guess this coming from a stat fan, i'll pass this off to personal preference/modding abilities(?) as i find the midrange on a modded T50RP to be quite fantastic and I am quite sure I am not alone in this.

 

[mypasswordis]

sachu, is that you?