[mypasswordis]

Do any of you guys know a mod to "clean up" sound? It's not related to resonances caused by the backs of the cups or anything. Just an overall somewhat unclean sound. Or is this just a driver issue that can't really be fixed?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Do any of you guys know a mod to "clean up" sound? It's not related to resonances caused by the backs of the cups or anything. Just an overall somewhat unclean sound. Or is this just a driver issue that can't really be fixed?

Try a different amp and/or source first. My UEs sounded like crap off my CR-620 with the Sony SACD and mediocre at best with the Denon CDP. Out of my Sony DAP they were fine. The Senn HD25s did not play well with the CR-620 either. Just a bad sound. They were great off my Audigy 2 ZS box and fine off the Sony DAP.

If it follows the cans and doesn't get altered, then you will have to get creative. I had to use a very open velor to cover the driver inside the ear pad of a set of vintage K140s I modded that were really hot on the highs, not just bright or not harsh, but hot. They had way too much energy in the highs over a wide band. The velor knocked it down and put everything in place so well it was crazy.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Do any of you guys know a mod to "clean up" sound? It's not related to resonances caused by the backs of the cups or anything. Just an overall somewhat unclean sound. Or is this just a driver issue that can't really be fixed?

Yeah. Damp harder.

 

[mypasswordis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Try a different amp and/or source first. My UEs sounded like crap off my CR-620 with the Sony SACD and mediocre at best with the Denon CDP. Out of my Sony DAP they were fine. The Senn HD25s did not play well with the CR-620 either. Just a bad sound. They were great off my Audigy 2 ZS box and fine off the Sony DAP.

That's strange. I only have my Emu 0404 USB and I know it's not the problem since it does well enough with my other headphones. I'll eventually upgrade my source, but likely not until next year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah. Damp harder.

I'll give that a try, thanks. But then I might have to think up a way to get some bass back...

 

[ericj]

Although I've only personally heard smeggy's early attempts, my general impression is that most of you guys go for tone while ignoring what wualta and i have been calling 'acutance' - borrowing a term from photography, traditionally used to refer to the edge contrast of an image.

Most of the vintage orthos suffer from sounding a bit fuzzy. The classic example given early in the thread was the tick of a spec of dust on a vinyl record coming across as more of a 'thock' on stock yamahas.

SFI drivers have this in spades, too. The newer fostexen, not so much.

 

[mypasswordis]

Actually, the headphone I'm trying to clean up the sound of is not an ortho but a 'stat, the Beyer ET1000. I'm very familiar with the "fuzziness" of the stock ortho sound (mid-bass to lower midrange bloat, etc) and this isn't the same. I ripped out the stock thick cotton damping because the acutance was insane and it was way too bright, ie overdamped. Instead of a tick becoming a thock, it was more like a tt. I will try to just damp lightly or more creatively and see if that helps.

 

[ericj]

Ah. Good luck.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mypasswordis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Actually, the headphone I'm trying to clean up the sound of is not an ortho but a 'stat, the Beyer ET1000. I'm very familiar with the "fuzziness" of the stock ortho sound (mid-bass to lower midrange bloat, etc) and this isn't the same. I ripped out the stock thick cotton damping because the acutance was insane and it was way too bright, ie overdamped. Instead of a tick becoming a thock, it was more like a tt. I will try to just damp lightly or more creatively and see if that helps.

It's strange that we hear things so differently! I thought it had a nice warm tone with relaxed treble.

 

[mypasswordis]

I couldn't stand using the stock pads for very long because they hurt my ears so I removed them and put on some circumaural pads, so that might've caused the discrepancy between what we hear. The stock pads probably acted as a bass lens which I completely removed and replaced with something that allowed the entire driver surface to be freely open. I felt like the stock pads also muddied the sound, though, so I'm glad I tried the circumaural pads. I think one thin layer of damping in the back and maybe damping the backs of the cups will bring it to its potential. If shipping cost wasn't so prohibitive, I'd definitely send it back to you for you to listen and compare again!

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif ...lack of evidence for the existence of the 1975 Fostex-branded T50

Just to note, that I have received a scan from a 1975 Japanese brochure that proves the existance of the T50 from 1975 at least in the Japanese market.
It is the same model I posted a week or so back (which we referred to as T50v0)

I have shown wualta the pictures (as we have been privately discussing Fostex history for a while), but I have note actually got permission from the owner to post it publically...

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif Although I've only personally heard smeggy's early attempts, my general impression is that most of you guys go for tone while ignoring what wualta and i have been calling 'acutance' - borrowing a term from photography, traditionally used to refer to the edge contrast of an image. Most of the vintage orthos suffer from sounding a bit fuzzy. The classic example given early in the thread was the tick of a spec of dust on a vinyl record coming across as more of a 'thock' on stock yamahas. SFI drivers have this in spades, too. The newer fostexen, not so much.

I definitely hear the fuzz in the Yammies, but not as much in the Fostex.

Of course, I prefer my tone more like a 'Thwack!' And definitely prefer a toned bottom end with a 'thong'.

Sorry Eric, it was a beautiful setup man.

When your T10s were too bright, did you notice the mids recessed? When I fully taped off the T10 driver with Transpore the highs came up and bass lowered, but tightened up at the expense of mids recessing. I like the forward mids of the T20s and AKGs, but balanced with bass and extended highs, so this is not acceptable. But I have more tricks up my sleeves and I only try three mods a night, otherwise my ears get tired of critical listening and I have to change cans.

EDIT: Sweet! Post 1,313 for me.

 

[mypasswordis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Just to note, that I have received a scan from a 1975 Japanese brochure that proves the existance of the T50 from 1975 at least in the Japanese market. It is the same model I posted a week or so back (which we referred to as T50v0) I have shown wualta the pictures (as we have been privately discussing Fostex history for a while), but I have note actually got permission from the owner to post it publically...

Glad you cleared this up and congrats on a good headphone. Your impressions on the T50v0 sound exactly like luvdunhill's T50 I heard so I will from now on refer to his as a T50v0, unless you think this is wrong.

 

[smeggy]

I have to say these days I'm much more tick than thonk in my 'personal' tuning. I pretty much gave up on the Yammys as I could never get them to sound how I wanted. The tone is ok but that warm and fuzzy doesn't do much for me. In fact, aside from general interest in the older orthophones I have little interest in them sonically. I'm a total T50rp convert and spend 99% of my time with them.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have to say these days I'm much more tick than thonk in my 'personal' tuning. I pretty much gave up on the Yammys as I could never get them to sound how I wanted. The tone is ok but that warm and fuzzy doesn't do much for me. In fact, aside from general interest in the older orthophones I have little interest in them sonically. I'm a total T50rp convert and spend 99% of my time with them.

Word. Yammies are a bitch to tune without screwing up the balance or having to keep them dark to reel in the highs. They can be tamed, but it's a lot of work and every pair is different.

Partial to T50s too, except my T50s are T50v0, AKA NAD RP18s.

Decided they get the a $250+ cable. Pulling out all the stops on them and I'll reterminate the cable in 4-pin XLR once the F5s are done. I'd tape the O2 pads on, but I want to try the W11 pads just because curiosity is getting the best of me.

I don't hear the thonk in the T10s either. I've settled on the full coverage TransPore on the driver, then the disc of white Oz felt filling the opening on the back of the driver, stock biscuit, and finally a quarter sized piece of Moorbrook in the very center of the back cup. This leave the two outer vents on each side of the T10 open. That scheme works great with stock cables or copper only recables, but it's too hot with SPC.

I'll sort out SPC tuning for T10s later, moving on to the T20v1s for ourfpshero and a few others...

Say, Smeggy, I have a second T10 here and rumor has it you have some wood lying around and maybe another T50rp there?

Hell, might have to ship you my Madrone Burl! Watch for an email...

 

[mypasswordis]

Third Yammie disliker, reporting in. I'm pretty much done with vintage orthos also except for my Concept CE-H and if I ever find one, a T40v1. Oh, and just playing around with some SFIs.

If you're calling the NAD a T50v0 we need a new name for what Kabeer and have luvdunhill have since they sound way different.