[SeEnCreaTive]

Well, got bored of trying to get Sketch-Up to work for my T50RP wave guides. So I finally took a night, gathered a few things and gave my self a perpetual heart attack as I modded those vintage YH-100s
 
BMF sent be a wonderful little PDF of a YH-100 mod. Tonight I tackled it. It was a very simple easy mod luckly
 
Im using the smallest setting for pictures, you can click for full sized. Don't expect much though, taken on a phone and compressed through facebook.......
 
These things are close to 30 years old, took me awhile to build up the nerve to finally peal the pads off. Slowly but surely I made my way around taking it off bit by bit trying to save as much as I could. Sadly neither pad made it. They are mostly competely together, but are now missing a full layer of material that got left behind on the baffle. I didn't expect them to live anyways, they were flaking and cracked) I dug my way through the pad carnage to find the screws and took the baffle off
 

 
The make-up pads I managed to steal from my girlie fit perfectly in the smaller circle of the can, but they needed to fill the whole cup. So I stuffed the rest of the open space with cotten ball. The recipe called for a 4 layer with only 1 side being embossed. I only had 3 layers, so I just kept both embossed sides.
 


 
Then I sealed the baffle with some Tac. I stretched out a thin line, then rolled it and stretched it to make it as even as possible and the right size
 

 
So, I put them back together, and ran them for a half hour on slightly higher then normal volume just to get them back to where they should be (Haven't been used in 15 years or so)
 
I messaged the pads on the baffles enough for them to stick enough to get them on my head
 
Then I ran them through a slue of test tracks I know very well. From high production quality, and highest quality file and some low quality files I have (Scorpions, Joe Saterani, Audioslave) to good production but iTunes (Imagine Dragons, Andy McKee) to low production and quality (Maroon5) and everything in between .
 
They are very fast, detailed, and smooth as silk,  as I would expect from an orthro can. Bass is nicely dialed back, freq-response seems fairly wide. Highs don't sparkle, even my T50RPs have better highs. But the bass really reaches down down low, but is tight and still maintains a nice balance. But sadly mids seem rather muddy (haven't been used in a long time?) 
 
Sound stage is surprising in its size, by no means big, but surprising. They sound very natural (Sound like nice wood? is that a thing?). 
 
Overall, I say the operation was a success
 
 
The poor pads are no more, so now comes the question. Any pad suggestions to replace the now dead ones?
 
EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Black-Leather-Ear-Pads-Replacement-Cushions-For-Yamaha-YH100-Headphones-/251666029150?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a9876da5e
 
Hmm those look alright

 

[fleasbaby]

Hi All,
 
I recently built my first woody for some Fostex T40rp drivers, and was blown away by the level of detail. I have heard stock T50rp, and have tried my hand at modding them before, but never really had this sort of experience. I am assuming I just luckily hit the right combination this time...
 
A little reading has revealed that there is a consensus that orthos are known for having better detail than dynamic drivers in general...is this truly the case, and if so, aside from the Txx line by Fostex, where else should I be exploring for donor drivers?
 
I want to make more builds, and am eventually aiming at making something a little smaller than the rather large 4 inch diameter that is required to house the Fostex drivers...I was thinking maybe a pair of Fostex T10, or some Yamaha YH-series would be a little smaller....thoughts? Will I still get that magical detail (I kid you not, I heard Jim Morrison take a breathe before launching into "Lament for My C****" on his American Prayer album...).

 

[GREQ]

IMO T10's are too rare to even be thinking about driver transplants.
Also, the modern T50RP/40/20 driver (it's probably the same driver) is A LOT more resolving than the T10, which sound naturally dark and somewhat distant.
Also the driver struggles to bring out treble accurately, where vocal 's' sounds and 's-like' cymbal splash sounds sound more like 'shhh' instead.

 

[fleasbaby]

  IMO T10's are too rare to even be thinking about driver transplants.
Also, the modern T50RP/40/20 driver (it's probably the same driver) is A LOT more resolving than the T10, which sound naturally dark and somewhat distant.
Also the driver struggles to bring out treble accurately, where vocal 's' sounds and 's-like' cymbal splash sounds sound more like 'shhh' instead.

 
Good to know...I saw two rather beat-up T10s go on eBay recently and just assumed they would be common. Duly noted.

 

[MuZo2]

  Hi All,
 
I recently built my first woody for some Fostex T40rp drivers, and was blown away by the level of detail. I have heard stock T50rp, and have tried my hand at modding them before, but never really had this sort of experience. I am assuming I just luckily hit the right combination this time...
 
A little reading has revealed that there is a consensus that orthos are known for having better detail than dynamic drivers in general...is this truly the case, and if so, aside from the Txx line by Fostex, where else should I be exploring for donor drivers?
 
I want to make more builds, and am eventually aiming at making something a little smaller than the rather large 4 inch diameter that is required to house the Fostex drivers...I was thinking maybe a pair of Fostex T10, or some Yamaha YH-series would be a little smaller....thoughts? Will I still get that magical detail (I kid you not, I heard Jim Morrison take a breathe before launching into "Lament for My C****" on his American Prayer album...).

Pictures?

 

[fleasbaby]

 
Pictures?

...posted some here:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/10875#post_11167516
 

 

[ericj]

ericj,
 
In my country Superlux HD330 costs 40$, it's real bergain for mods like mine. It is not bad quality as a headphones frame. I've ordered velour pads, because stock is made of cheap pleather. Beyerdynamic and Hifiman fits OK. One important note is that Superlux headband size is a bit smaller/shorter than Beyerdynamic typical one. And if you have a big head You need to be aware. Me I did some mod and now it fits perfectly and the sides move much further than stock lengths.
 
What rear dampening od drivers do you use, if any ? 

Well, i already have the spare dt990 frame so I'll stick with that. I have some pads on their way from china.

I don't recall what damping i used, if any.

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes

 

[nick n]

FLEASBABY:
 
Be careful about getting the older series of T20 also , there are I think 2 or 3 types that have a similar housing to ( and including ) the modern ones, the older ones use the old style round drivers ( same as the very first originals that look like a flat T10.)
 
Just in case you were dowsing for drivers to harvest and saw some.
 
I've personally not got any experience in those. Others can say though.

 

[fleasbaby]

FLEASBABY:

Be careful about getting the older series of T20 also , there are I think 3 types that have a similar housing to ( and including ) the modern ones, the older ones use the old style round drivers.

In case you were dowsing for drivers to harvest.

I've personally not got any experience in those. Others can say though.

Thanks for the heads up

 

[nick n]

  Putting this sheer velour (similar to beyer earpad fabric) over the driver took away much of the peakiness and i can stand to listen to the T30 now. 
 
  Where the T30 is now, i could use some additional midrange warmth. Considering a lens of felt under the fabric. But things may change a lot when i replace the felt behind the driver with a few layers of fiberglass pipe wrap. It's just Frost-King 3" x 1/2" fiberglass batting with no backing. Cheap at any hardware store. Purchased for it's uniform density and thinness. two or three layers compressed w/ foam perhaps. 

If you find time and are so inclined can you post pictures of that velour type material. Always on the lookout for new stuff to try or find.
 
Also are you worried at all about fiberglass dust coating the drivers over time from vibrations and possibly causing issues?
 I know in the T50 thread when using rockwool people enveloped that in a layer of gauze to sort of help with extraneous dust over time.
Think I know exactly the stuff you are talking about, it is sort of peelable in layers right but normally all one thickness. Maybe I am thinking of something different.
 
This reminded me about a material called ceramic wool, but think I saw a chart of the FR ranges afffected and it was weird.
Another thing to source and try if anyone feels the urge. I know you can get ceramic fabric in various thickness like felt too.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

I've restored the RT-10 to an open vented driver again. This time it is mounted at an angle, outside of the baffle, to match the angled ear pads I've put on. It rests just gently agains the ears, with only a thin dust protector in between. In this way, bass cancellation is cancelled to a great extent, without closed baffle etc. The PMB driver then delivers a quite balanced sound.
 
This could be improved with some kind of light spring loaded mount, that always places the driver perfectly against the ear, instead of these three blobs of blutak.
(I know it looks strange, but it works - you will hear the bass before the backwave cancels it, I promise....)
 
Did anyone else try this?
 

 

[leeperry]

  Audeze EL-8, hopefully it'll be more affordable than the LCD range

 
$699

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

 
... after some listening to the RT-10, I'd say this mod is most useful if you find that the treble is ok, but that you just need to get stronger bass / deeper bass extension.
In comparison, if I instead close the baffle, then bass goes up as well, but then treble is reduced quite a bit.

 

[MuZo2]

Is there any difference between Silver and Black ТДС-15?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  Is there any difference between Silver and Black ТДС-15?

 
I have both. Just the color.